millenium7
Husqvarna
AA Class
I just bought this bike, bought as a runner but unridden and was sitting for a while. Was hard to start and needed a boost to get it going, but once running was ok. That's as far as I got with it, it came equipped with an FMF pipe which was so loud I just didn't want anything to do with the bike in that state, so the very first thing I did was source a stock pipe.
Rode it a bit, it idles ok at ~1600rpm, smooth and no problem. But will stall if I crack the throttle open and then let it close to idle, the higher I go with the throttle the more likely it is that upon returning down to idle speed. Under load its ok with very little throttle, the more I give it the more it starts to feel very weak and just dies out. Doesn't pop or surge just lacks any power and dies down, more throttle completely kills all power and it'll stall. Checked the plug its black, and the way it dies appears rich not lean. Making me think its not a fuel pump issue
So I...
- Changed the spark plug
- Replaced the battery with a 220cca lithium ion one to make sure its got good juice
- Scrubbed terminals going to starter relay and starter motor
- Pulled the fuel pump, filters look ok, found the reserve sensor had broken off its mount and had broken off the red wire so I resoldered everything back on
- Cleaned the air filter
- Cleaned the throttle body
- Checked electrical connections near the throttle body, seem to be ok. Noticed a few disconnected or plugged off plugs elsewhere (has previously had all the EPA crap removed)
The bike sometimes start effortlessly with the choke on, in the first revolution or 2 with the starter. Sometimes takes a few cranks, thats better than it was previously which took a good dozen or so cranks to get going. Even with the lithium ion battery though, the starter motor locks dead on the compression stroke, once past that it'll continue to crank over quickly. Is this normal?
I checked the valves and found something strange with it. The manual says to check it at TDC, which should correspond to the 2 marked holes in the cam gear. Yet if I put the engine there I cannot get ANY feeler gauge in the intake side at all. So instead of using that marker I just looked at when the intake valve was opening then spun past it so both intake and exhaust lobes aren't touched the valves, then checked. I got...
0.15 & 0.18mm for the intake
0.25 & 0.23mm for the exhaust
This is slightly out of spec isn't it? But its the loose side so i'm not sure if this is a problem. What's more concerning is the marks when lined up don't seem to allow me to insert any feeler gauge. Is it possible the cams aren't lined up correctly?
I've ordered an OBD2 cable to connect to the computer system and downloaded the iBeat software. I also somewhat suspect a crappy mapping from a free flowing exhaust that doesn't play well with the stocker (havn't tried the FMF and don't really intend to, its that loud) But if nothing else I want to set the TPS and check the other sensors are responding. To be clear, I need to match...
pin 7 on the OBD2 to pin 1 on the bike
pin 4 or 5 on the OBD2 to pin 5 on the bike
pin 16 on the ODB2 to pin 6 on the bike
Is that correct? The official thread says 5/16 to 5/6 but doesn't specifically mention thats the right way around. Also.... which is pin 1 and 2 on the bike so I get my orientation right?
Cheers
Rode it a bit, it idles ok at ~1600rpm, smooth and no problem. But will stall if I crack the throttle open and then let it close to idle, the higher I go with the throttle the more likely it is that upon returning down to idle speed. Under load its ok with very little throttle, the more I give it the more it starts to feel very weak and just dies out. Doesn't pop or surge just lacks any power and dies down, more throttle completely kills all power and it'll stall. Checked the plug its black, and the way it dies appears rich not lean. Making me think its not a fuel pump issue
So I...
- Changed the spark plug
- Replaced the battery with a 220cca lithium ion one to make sure its got good juice
- Scrubbed terminals going to starter relay and starter motor
- Pulled the fuel pump, filters look ok, found the reserve sensor had broken off its mount and had broken off the red wire so I resoldered everything back on
- Cleaned the air filter
- Cleaned the throttle body
- Checked electrical connections near the throttle body, seem to be ok. Noticed a few disconnected or plugged off plugs elsewhere (has previously had all the EPA crap removed)
The bike sometimes start effortlessly with the choke on, in the first revolution or 2 with the starter. Sometimes takes a few cranks, thats better than it was previously which took a good dozen or so cranks to get going. Even with the lithium ion battery though, the starter motor locks dead on the compression stroke, once past that it'll continue to crank over quickly. Is this normal?
I checked the valves and found something strange with it. The manual says to check it at TDC, which should correspond to the 2 marked holes in the cam gear. Yet if I put the engine there I cannot get ANY feeler gauge in the intake side at all. So instead of using that marker I just looked at when the intake valve was opening then spun past it so both intake and exhaust lobes aren't touched the valves, then checked. I got...
0.15 & 0.18mm for the intake
0.25 & 0.23mm for the exhaust
This is slightly out of spec isn't it? But its the loose side so i'm not sure if this is a problem. What's more concerning is the marks when lined up don't seem to allow me to insert any feeler gauge. Is it possible the cams aren't lined up correctly?
I've ordered an OBD2 cable to connect to the computer system and downloaded the iBeat software. I also somewhat suspect a crappy mapping from a free flowing exhaust that doesn't play well with the stocker (havn't tried the FMF and don't really intend to, its that loud) But if nothing else I want to set the TPS and check the other sensors are responding. To be clear, I need to match...
pin 7 on the OBD2 to pin 1 on the bike
pin 4 or 5 on the OBD2 to pin 5 on the bike
pin 16 on the ODB2 to pin 6 on the bike
Is that correct? The official thread says 5/16 to 5/6 but doesn't specifically mention thats the right way around. Also.... which is pin 1 and 2 on the bike so I get my orientation right?
Cheers