'12 TXC310 wash bike now no fuel pump or relay click??

[R_Little]

No pump prime..no relay click..no noise at all. E-start works.

Bike is dry.
Red indicator light illuminates..I guess this means the switch is good.
Battery is charged
Starter works.

I swapped the fan and fuel pump relays...no change
I swapped the both 15amp fuses...no change

Resources I have:
Extra fuel pump
multi-meter
2010 TE250 that runs.

Where do I start?

Does anyone have a link to a wiring diagram?

No, I did not use a power washer!

Thanks

 

[Matthew525]

Here is the 2013 txc 310.
One a bit more zoomed out
Third is a 2010 txc.

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

No pump prime..no relay click..no noise at all. E-start works.

So the e-start cranks the bike?

Possible that the kill switch is shorted, although the e-start should be disabled as well.

Is the bike electrically ON at all times? I'd have it powered up and get rough with the wiring harness, push and pull it at various spots, and listen for the relay and pump to click and whir up, I think you'll find a short somewhere.

 

[R_Little]

Yeah, the E-start still cranks the bike...

There is no separate kill switch..only one master switch on the TXC which is the Kill switch on the TE.

The red indicator light is illuminated when I close switch..

I don't know about a short....I'm hoping for an open!

I looked at the wiring diagram for my 2010 and it looks like the ECU stimulates the fuel Pump relay and I don't think it stimulating anything now. I will put a meter to the relay and see.

The red indicator light and the E-start does NOT appear to go through the ECU. Is that true? The Fuel pump and IGN OTOH do go through the ECU. You mentioned a fault the green /red wire shuts the power to everything. I suspect a bad connection somewhere.
Does the TXC have a resistor in the O2 sensor plug like the TE?

What about that 20 amp fuse?

I swapped the relays and the 2 15 amp fuses but I didn't have a spare 20 amp to swap in so I left it.

Maybe it's as simple as a dirty fuse...or a hair line crack I can't see.
The 15 amp fuses were a little corroded on the prongs when I took them out.

Meantime, my 2010 never did anything like this but then again every time I took a connector off I cleaned and greased it.

This like is new to me only 1.5yrs old but maybe the last guy used a powerwasher?

Anyway, I'll grease up all the connections.

I remember it was a $%^& to get the connector on the injector on my 2010. Not looking forward to that.

 

[R_Little]

If I hook up my I-beat would it show a fault?

 

[huskylove]

Tapping on the relay might help. Mine gets "stuck on" sometimes.

 

[R_Little]

Tapping on the relay might help. Mine gets "stuck on" sometimes.

I tried that.....even swapped the relays.

I think either the 20 amp fuse is dead or there is a wiring fault and the ECU is shutting power down.

 

[huskylove]

I am not familiar with your bike, if I had one in front of me and a schematic I could find the issue in 20 minutes flat.....thats the problem with the internet troubleshooting stuff :\.

Check power at the relay and make sure something is there, try jumping the relay if you can find a plan on the side. Just start at the top...battery....ecu....on off/start switch...fuel pump relay? injector...

 

[need2boat]

Rich I don't have my factory handlebar switch anymore but how hard is it to unplug and use the one from you're 250. or can you check that the kill switch is properly working. Also can you test for power at the fuel pump pump. Is the relay getting power across the fuse. when the starter is working. It seems odd you're not getting the relay click?

I might switch out the starter relay and see if you get the click of the relay.

Joe

 

[R_Little]

Rich I don't have my factory handlebar switch anymore but how hard is it to unplug and use the one from you're 250. or can you check that the kill switch is properly working. Also can you test for power at the fuel pump pump. Is the relay getting power across the fuse. when the starter is working. It seems odd you're not getting the relay click?

I might switch out the starter relay and see if you get the click of the relay.

Joe

yes, the switch is the same as my 250.

I think the switch is okay as the red light illuminates when I switch it on and there are only two wires coming out of that switch so I think the red light is on the same circuit as the main power to the ECU. The starter switch is good too as the bike cranks.

I swapped relays and 2 of the 3 fuses.

I did not replace the 20amp fuse though. Don't know if that is the fuse that powers the fuel pump. Will find out though.

I will check it out tonite with a meter and report back tomorrow.

 

[CCP]

Same bike - with the switch on you should have the power relay coil energized. Looking at the picture, I measure 12V on the lower left and upper right pins of the power relay connector using battery ground as a reference. If not, measure on both sides of the fuse or pull the fuse and check it with the ohm meter. (F12 15A)

Feel free to give me a call if you want to compare anything.

- Craig

 

[CCP]

The 15A on the left is for the coil, FI and fuel pump according to the service manual.

 

[R_Little]

Well.........it fixed itself!

I took a ride over last night opened the garage pushed the red button and the power relay clicked.

Must have been some water in something that dried out and all is well.

I am going through the electric system and cleaning a greasing all the connectors fuses and relays.

Don't know how I will get to the ECU and coil under the tank. I guess I will remove the radiator hoses.

I notice two wires are ganged on a ground behind the coil......looks vulnerable to me. Gonna remove clean and grease it for sure.

Thanks all!

 

[R_Little]

The 15A on the left is for the coil, FI and fuel pump according to the service manual.

I noticed the back fuse and relay power the fuel pump.

I guess the 20 amp fuse on the right is for the starter?

If nothing else I'm learning a lot about the bike that may come in handy if I ever get stuck in the woods.

 

[CCP]

All of the Mikuni/ ECU connections seem to be weatherproof. All of the Husky stuff is wide open. You can fill in the backs of the connectors with RTV or something to seal them. I used a hot glue gun and filled all the connectors where the wires enter. And dielectric grease on the contacts. Seems to be good so far.

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

Well.........it fixed itself!

Standard Husky feature.....

 

[need2boat]

Rich good to hear things are back on track. When I bought my used 2012 TXC cleaning all the connections was one of the fist things I did.THe easiest way to get at them is when the tank. It opens up everything.

Did you install the larger starter cables on the bike? If you're heading down to Sahara Sands this weekend in Jersey. I'll be helping out both Sat and Sun. Bruised a few ribs the other week so I'll be off the bike. That said I'll be in camping in a red 1987 Vanagon hightop that will stand out. It won't be that clean

 

[R_Little]

Un VasserBoxer Syncro, nice!
Fast, aint it?

I'll look you up.

Another guy there is looking at buying my 2 stoke.

I have not put the cables on yet, but I will.

 

[need2boat]

I put a subaru 2.5 in it about 8 years ago but it's still a sloth. The Vanagon lifestyle isn't for racers. It's more about being in time then on time. Look forward to meeting up.

 

[R_Little]

I put a subaru 2.5 in it about 8 years ago but it's still a sloth. The Vanagon lifestyle isn't for racers. It's more about being in time then on time. Look forward to meeting up.

Motor swap....that's cool!

That Van is sweet!