• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

12v power

dmw_az

Husqvarna
AA Class
I'm trying to find which one of these wires provides power. I have a test light that works but when I attach my red wire to the brown and then ground, with the key on but engine not running, the light does not turn on. Which one of these wires provides power?1457201678703256720968.jpg
 
You should splice into the red/white wire as this is the power source for the oxygen sensor from Fuse #4. The brown/white wire goes to the ECU.
I'd strongly recommend not using Scotchlock connectors especially on connections that are exposed to the elements.
lambda_plug.jpg
 
I'm trying to find which one of these wires provides power. I have a test light that works but when I attach my red wire to the brown and then ground, with the key on but engine not running, the light does not turn on. Which one of these wires provides power?View attachment 65562


Power for what?? You should not be 'splicing' into any of these wires to obtain power for anything.
Two wires power the Lambda Heater and the other two are the signal wires, the black being the 'feedback' signal that the Ecu processes.

Also the 'scotchlock' splicing connectors need to be in the garbage bin asap. They are not reliable.
 
I want to add a cig. lighter adapter so that I can power my tire inflator in the event of a flat in the middle of nowhere. I've since realized that the harness that I was tapping into is the MOSS adapter and not the one designed to provide accessory power.

I used that connector as a test to confirm that it would give me power with key on. It seemed like the least obtrusive way to get to the wire without damaging the insulation too much.

I've given up on this project as I will just connect the cig lighter adapter directly to the battery should the need arise.
 
I want to add a cig. lighter adapter so that I can power my tire inflator in the event of a flat in the middle of nowhere.
Ahhh...so you're talking a 8+ amp device. Your cigarette adapter to the battery is the better way to go. Tapping into an existing line with the kind of load from an inflator is a recipe for disaster.

I personally went a similar, but refined route by running a wire from the battery to a Powerlet setup and simply replaced the end of my infiltrator from the yukky cigarette adapter. Bonus: When I'm not using the inflator (which is about 99.9% of the time) I have this handy power source for my tank bag. ;)
 
I want to add a cig. lighter adapter so that I can power my tire inflator in the event of a flat in the middle of nowhere. I've since realized that the harness that I was tapping into is the MOSS adapter and not the one designed to provide accessory power.

I used that connector as a test to confirm that it would give me power with key on. It seemed like the least obtrusive way to get to the wire without damaging the insulation too much.

I've given up on this project as I will just connect the cig lighter adapter directly to the battery should the need arise.


For your requirements a simple fused outlet would suffice. For those who require to fit more accessories then a Fuzeblok is the way to go - Safe and simple. It connects directly to the battery, contains a safe relay which is 'switched' by an auxiliary wire and each outlet has its own fuse.
 
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