• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

1973 WR250 Clutch Problems

Gord

Gord

Husqvarna
AA Class
Just got back from a Vintage MX race. Before I start tearing things apart, I thought I'd ask for some advice or opinions. This is a 1973 WR250 with a CR250 Transmission.
Here's what's happening: Short story; Pull the clutch in, let the clutch out and the clutch arm on the motor won't return. The bike has always been a creeper when the clutch is pulled in and in first gear, on a starting gate. But today when I let out the clutch, the cable actually becomes so loose at the handlebar lever that the whole adjustment assembly comes out of the lever. I took up all the slack in the cable at the lever and all seems fine, until the bike is started. And again; pull it in, let it out and everything is loose again. With the clutch cable off the bike, I can move the clutch arm, on the motor freely about an inch and it won't go back by itself.
I'm not a Husky mechanic and don't pretend to be, so any help on where to start looking for the problem is appreciated. And if you need more information, please ask.
 
Here's what I found this morning. This bolt almost came through the cover. Cut a pretty deep groove. Does this help with what to do next?
Husky Clutch.jpg
 
Gord,
Looks like one or two of your clutch spring studs backed out or broke.You'll need to bend back the retaining clips on all the spring
retainers, take off the nuts, remove the clutch outer cover, & clutch plates (metal & fiber) and see what's what.

Husky John
 
John,
I removed the retaining nuts, springs, outer cover and plates. The stud did not come loose. The reatainer nut did. The stud is fine, but bent a bit, do to the retaining nut hitting the case.
What was wierd is the nut that holds the basket in place was only on by a thread or two and fell off in my hand.
Questions at this point:
1. When I put this back together, how far do I run the 8 retainer nuts in, since there is no positive stop and you can just keeping going?
2. Where is the spring, if there is one, interior/exterior, on the opposite side of the motor, that holds the clutch arm back? So when you pull in the clutch, it goes back when you let it out? Or does all this take place through the clutch assembly?
3. How tight do I tighten the nut that holds the clutch basket?
4. How far should the push rod come out when the clutch is pulled in?
Thanks John!!
 
Gord,
Answers Questions at this point:
1. When I put this back together, how far do I run the 8 retainer nuts in, since there is no positive stop and you can just keeping going?
adjust them evenly, the retaining clips are all that holds the nuts from loosening.
2. Where is the spring, if there is one, interior/exterior, on the opposite side of the motor, that holds the clutch arm back? So when you pull in the clutch, it goes back when you let it out? Or does all this take place through the clutch assembly? The center rods goes through the entire clutch
and motor & contacts the clutch arm (where the lower cable attaches too).
3. How tight do I tighten the nut that holds the clutch basket? tighten them evenly, don't bend over the retaining tabs until the clutch is adjusted
completely.
4. How far should the push rod come out when the clutch is pulled in? Adjust the clutch cable loose, then adjust free play with center rod nut.

Adjusting the early Husky clutches are a pain, I haven't done it for a few years, so some else maybe able to jump in with the exact
procedure. But what i remember is this: totally unadjust the clutch cable at the handlebar, leaving it as loose as possible. Then
if the plates looks & measure fine, reinstall them with cover. Reinstall the springs, retainers & nuts tighten them evenly, if i remember
i tighten them til the stud threads come completely thru the nuts, with 3 threads showing, don't bend the retainer over yet. Now
adjusting the center nut. Try putting a very thin feeler gage in between the plates when the clutch is supposed to be engaged. Then,
if it pulls out easy, it's still disengaged or worn out from slipping. Remember the clutch should be disengaged all the time until you pull
in the clutch cable. Adjust it as close as you can, then fine tune it with handlebar adjuster. Nothing wrong with using blue loctite on the
nuts. Now Bend over the retaining tabs, reassemble the cover & refill . The final clutch adjustment should be this, you should be able to
move the clutch lever about the thickness of a dime before the cable moves.

Husky John
 
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