• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1976 360 WR

mike1960

mike1960

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hi
I have a 1976 360WR that was running fine when last rode it about a month ago, went to start it today and noitced it had very little compression when went to kick start it. I then took the spark plug out and felt very little compression when i put my finger over plug hole.

I then place a rod thru plug hole into cylinder while trying to find top dead center and noticed that while using the kick starter and holding rod firmly the piston would stay still while still being able to rotate kick starter.

All seems very odd as bike ran fine when last used it just rode into shed and turn it off.

Any help would be greatly appreciated
 
just had a thought the only thing that has changed since last rode bike is that I have replaced the clutch cable, could this be related to the kick starting problem if cable is not adjusted correctly?
 
That model doesn't have primary kick meaning that it must be in neutral or the rear wheel off the ground to kick start it. Being in gear and pulling in the clutch will turn the wheel but not the engine. Well yes if the clutch cable is adjusted too tight or the clutch needs service starting gets problematic. The primary kick stuff (everything for sale new that I know of) still kicks through easier in neutral so the older set up isn't all that bad for recreational use.
 
Just discovered that it was the new stainless steel braided clutch cable from Husqvarna Parts that I fitted since last ride the outer is 1"3/4 longer than the original and the inner is not long enough to allow for free play when backed right off. Am a bit pissed seeing paid good money for a so called superior product that is supposed to be a lot better than original !

Also just checked my new throttle and front brake cables that I got at same time and they are not the same lengths as the originals, which came on the bike when I bought it new in 1976.

It caused a great deal of stress at home when first thought something had broken inside the motor when it had no compression. The missus and kids are just starting to talk to me again as I was unbearable to be near, I just locked myself in my room and sulked for a whole day.
 
Though I never bought one for that year, the motion pro terminator is my top choice. It doesn't have the place to inject lube but if you do that you should have a few little block things around for that purpose. The motion pro one is more prone to burn damage, more a consideration for a four stroke. A braided cable would be good for hydraulic pressure but for a cable the idea is to keep the outer sheath from compressing something no braid I am familiar with would be much if any good at. Maybe there is another layer in those cables. Is there a little more to the name of your parts source than just husky parts?

I hope you go riding with someone who has some experience picking lines around obsitcles and following them. If you would put on a clutch cable and not check how far you can pull the sheath back at the handlebar lever and feel how much wiggle is in the lever on engine, have to go to the internet for an issue like that I can only imagind how much trouble you could get into on the trail.

Fran
 
Fran
Thanks for your input. the parts source is husky parts in Arizona USA, the cable we are talking about appears to have a ridgid nylon inner and the stainless steel braiding is coated in a clear plastic casing. Which make it quite a rigid item, I am quite aware that braided lines are all the go for high hydraulic pressure applications as I run them on 2 of my race cars.

The mistake I made was taking the word from an oversea supplier that the parts would fit, you see when we do business with companies in Australia you usually get what is stated that it is the correct item for the application. And fitting the cable in the early hours of the morning before an event, plus the onset of old age creeping in. The strange thing is the cable fitted but apparently not quite enough as to allow the clutch to slip as the piston was coming up on to compression. The clutch arm on the engine had 10mm of play without cable fitted which is within specs, admittedly in my haste to get to the event I did not check the free play in lever after new cable was fitted but had the perch adjuster backed right off but it must have not been quite enough allowing the clutch to partially engage.

As for going riding with someone with experience i think I might just qualify having been a factory rider for husqvarna, state champion 3 years running and representing Australia in the international 6 day in Czechoslovakia in 1977.

Also Fran sorry for being sexist but the way you spelt obstacle in your post I presume your are a blonde female with a name like Fran and I will give you the benefit of your naive comments. But thank you for your input it makes being a member on this site so worthwhile for all the nice help
 
Some of my last post was probably in poor taste. When I joined and read the high class intentions of the site I put my posts in spell checker, not too often lately.

When I was in the enduro oriented club I heard tales of running two cables side by side in case a little ball came un soldered or something of that nature. Maybe that was even earlier.

I had one bike shop owner sell me an aftermarket clutch lever when I had asked for a magura one. The one he sold me had a shorter adjuster and the distance from the notch to where the adjuster went was less hence it wouldn't work, even with a normal adjuster.. Maybe he was an isdt rider he certainly had lots of A level trophies and went to the alligator enduro in Florida every year for a long time.
 
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