1976 Wr360 Stator Wiring Help

[KTMFREAKY123]

Hi Everyone,

We have here my friend’s dad’s first bike, stored for over 20 years in a heat regulated basement, an original 1976 Husky WR360. Starts/Run/Stops. Everything good but now we are trying get convert from AC to DC. I’ve done this on my KTM 250 EXC 2 stroke before so I already have the Rectifier to convert the power from AC6v to DC12v. The issue is we cannot find a manual that shows the wiring diagram for the WR60. There is a total of 4 wires from the stator: BLUE, BLACK, YELLOW, and WHITE. Yellow and White are together and go directly down to the stator. Blue and black connect around the coil pack.


Does anyone know the wire lead labels?

Friend bought a $20 4-wire YZF450 Rectifier and I have the $4 4-wire rectifier from eBay which I run on my KTM, as a little background info.

Thanks!

 

[fran...k.]

I could be wrong but the four wire are to go to things like headlight, tail light, and light inside the speedometer. As opposed to the yellow branching to power those devices. Blue usually is the kill switch ground it to kill. Yellow is usually 12 volt. Well maybe 6 volt in your case. I generally disconnect all the power leads and never have to worry more about them.

 

[markt2]

A rectifier (just a diode) will convert AC to DC. It will not convert 6 volt to 12 volt. Using a rectifier is not needed to run an incandescent light bulb... they work great on AC power.

(and adding a rectifier will reduce available power from what is already weak output)

My 76's have just the yellow wire. I'm pretty sure the Motoplat with the yellow and white used the yellow to run a 35 watt 6 volt headlight and the white was used to run a 5 watt 6 volt taillight. Both circuits are AC power and designed (balanced) to run on precisely those voltage and wattages. Very basic stuff.

If you want or need to run 12 volt DC and/or higher wattages best would be to get a Powerdynamo/VAPE or other modern system... it's your bike though...

Just keep in mind the electrics are not as robust as what your newer KTM or Yamaha comes with... not even close.

 

[Crashaholic]

Heres an article that describes what the different Motoplat wire colors are used for.

BASIC MOTOPLAT TESTING
https://cybermotorcycle.com/archives/yankeetwin/motoplat.html

Section 1: Identification

#1. I believe this is the earliest type commonly found. It has a replaceable diode in the stator. It is identified by a diode symbol (an arrow head pointing to the top of a T) on the front face and a large notch on the outer circumference (containing the diode) near the position where the wires come out. The wires going to the ignition coil have clear insulating covers.
6 volt lighting coils
Yellow wire, 35 watts {head light}
Green wire, 18 watts {stop light}
Red wire, 5 watts {tail light}
Black wire, trigger circuit to ignition coil small terminal
Blue wire, capacitor charge wire to ignition coil large terminal and kill switch

#2. Similar in appearance to #1 but no notch, although it still has a diode in the stator. The wires going to the ignition coil have clear insulating covers. The wire colors and wattage values are slightly different.
Yellow, 35 w {head light}
Green, 21 w {stop light}
White 5 w {tail light}
Black, trigger {small terminal}
Blue, capacitor charge {large terminal} and kill switch

#3. Similar to #1, however there are some important differences. It has no diode in the stator (it is has been relocated to the ignition coil), there is no notch, and no diode symbol on the face of the stator. The easiest way to identify it is by the red insulators on the wires that go to the coil.
Yellow, 35 w {head light}
Green, 21 w {stop light}
White, 5 w {tail light}
Black, trigger {small terminal}
Blue, capacitor charge {large terminal} and kill switch
There are 2 types of ignition coils for Motoplat, as follows:
Black spark plug lead. This type has no diode in the coil.
Red spark plug lead. This type has a diode in the coil.
The black wire coil can only be used with the early (#1 & #2) stators with the diode. The red wire coil can be used with all three types of stators.

 

[visiteur1948]

 

[visiteur1948]

 

[KTMFREAKY123]

Ahh thanks guys, much help! So Blue is the ground!

@visiteur1948 - That looks like the coil pack. The bottom long red looks like the spark plug boot. What are those arrows referring too?

We dont need to change to 12v. Dont remember why we chose that, probably read something online or convenience of 12v lights.

The main requirements right now is to change to DC to run/add LED turn signals and license plate light and have the stator charge the battery. So if we keep it 6v and just add a bridged rectifier we should get a 6v DC output. correct? My current ktm has a Kokusan 2k-2 stator @ 35Watts with the bridged rectifier outputting 12v and I am able to run (2) 9watt Vision X pod lights, 10w LED headlight TUSK LED taillight,LED signals, and horn. All work great! Just need to do that for this bike. I use the bridged rectifier below:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2Pcs-1000V...WEAAOSwPhpaxKwC:sc:USPSFirstClass!06096!US!-1

 

[KTMFREAKY123]

This is what we are looking at:

Thanks

 

[KTMFREAKY123]

HI Guys

Back at the project.

Any one added turn signals to the 6v system?? Would love some feedback from people who've added turns signals.

Thanks

 

[Crashaholic]

The factory has already done it. The ignition in this example is a Femsa.