• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1978 CR250

310huskyTE

Husqvarna
Pro Class
I picked up this 1978 CR250 off ebay in april this year, it was in good condition when i got it, and it would have been fine as it was but it was pretty greasy and dirty and i wanted it better!!
As i'm to impatient to photograph everything as i go all i can do is some before and after shots and list everything that's been done to her.

The day i got her!

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Out for a days riding at a mates property.

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95% complete, only minor things left to do.

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So here's whats been done, in no particular order.
All new plastics
New gunner gasser throttle
New grips
Gold bar ends
Handle bars and rear brake plate re painted satin black
New braided cables
New dust cover for levers
New exhaust on it's way (hopefully)
Husky products foot pegs satin pearl chromed
New swing arm bearings and o rings
All new rubbers and springs
New chain and sprockets
Satin pearl chrome brake rod, brake stay, side stand, kick starter, gear lever and brake pedal
New axle and swing arm nuts
Nos ignition cover
Nos front brake plate
New kill switch
Stainless steel bolt kit in engine and stainless bolts in triple clamp
New decals
Nos side panels
New nyloc nuts throughout
New air filter
New air box splash guard
New chain wear pad
New seat cover, not installed yet
polished all bufo bolts
New brake shoes and springs
Tank touched up decals added and clear coated
I have also redirected the tail pipe so the whole rear of the bike doesnt get covered in oil and muck from the exhaust

A big thanks to Husqvarna-parts, Husqvarna Vintage, Vintage Husqvarna, Tri Trophy, Classic Metal Restoration, stainlesscycle.com and Bendigo Dirt Bikes.
This bike is a rider and the engine hasn't been touched as it's very strong with heaps of compression and starts 2-3 kicks every time.
In time i will pull the engine out and have it re built and painted. I have a bearing, gasket and seal kit waiting to go.
The only question i have is, can anybody please tell me what the tank hold down strap hooks on to??
 
Run it on motorex synthetic oil at 80:! and you will have no splooge... Great looking bike..too nice to ride
 
If it is running great as it is, continue with it. Yes, you will get more oil out the exhaust and will spend a little more for premix, but that way you won't have to mess wih your jetting. Personally, I wouldn't go past 40:1 on my old bikes.
 
tank strap [open black rubber band with metal hooks on each end ] just goes around frame backbone and hooks engage ....easy !
 
i've run both my water cooled husky's and my new ktm 300 up to 100:1 with no issues as long as its high quality top of the range synthetic oil. Otherwise 40:1 is max with normal 2- oils. 80:1 is a safe bet with Motorex if your unsure.

With the older aircooled bikes im not that experienced with them and would maybe use the 80: 1 and see how it feels. It richens the jetting a tad as there is much less oil per charge in the engine for each firing so technically, cooler firing. mix it well also if you decide to try it. You could go to 50 : 1 and each tank full, lean it out 10 % to 60 etc and see how it runs. even at 50 -60 you would cut the splooge down a lot. its expensive at $35 a litre but i get 10 tank fulls a bottle.

i started using Silkolene back in the 80's at 50:1 and leaner with no issues and have always been comfortable at such lean ratios using the best oil. Never needed anything other than normal maintenance in the top and bottom ends.

its a difficult mental choice to make to put only 100 ml of oil in a 10 litre container but im over it ok...

a mate went on a KTM australia ride in Kalgoorlie with Jeff Leisk a few years ago and KTM supplied the fuel. Ol mate was on his 09 300 and after a couple of days of top gear desert blasting, he asked what the mix was and Jeff told him 100 to 1 motorex so i have no issues with running at that level if the no 1 man is on it.
 
There is miles of comment on this topic but the simple reality is the high quality sythetics are twice as strong at putting a load bearing film on the bearing surfaces thus you can run much leaner oil ratios.

nothing tricky just a higher quality oil. the benefit being a cooler running engine (supposedly)

i'm about to replace the slug in the 300, its 2 years old now and only had one ring in it (its not ridden heavily) so i will see if there is any evidence of heat related stress or low oil.
 
tank strap [open black rubber band with metal hooks on each end ] just goes around frame backbone and hooks engage ....easy !
That makes sense, i was actually looking for somewhere n the frame that the hooks, hooked on to. Thanks
 
i've run both my water cooled husky's and my new ktm 300 up to 100:1 with no issues as long as its high quality top of the range synthetic oil. Otherwise 40:1 is max with normal 2- oils. 80:1 is a safe bet with Motorex if your unsure.

With the older aircooled bikes im not that experienced with them and would maybe use the 80: 1 and see how it feels. It richens the jetting a tad as there is much less oil per charge in the engine for each firing so technically, cooler firing. mix it well also if you decide to try it. You could go to 50 : 1 and each tank full, lean it out 10 % to 60 etc and see how it runs. even at 50 -60 you would cut the splooge down a lot. its expensive at $35 a litre but i get 10 tank fulls a bottle.

i started using Silkolene back in the 80's at 50:1 and leaner with no issues and have always been comfortable at such lean ratios using the best oil. Never needed anything other than normal maintenance in the top and bottom ends.

its a difficult mental choice to make to put only 100 ml of oil in a 10 litre container but im over it ok...

a mate went on a KTM australia ride in Kalgoorlie with Jeff Leisk a few years ago and KTM supplied the fuel. Ol mate was on his 09 300 and after a couple of days of top gear desert blasting, he asked what the mix was and Jeff told him 100 to 1 motorex so i have no issues with running at that level if the no 1 man is on it.
Thanks for taking the time to post that. I think i will try 50:1 and see how that goes and try leaning it out from there.
I don't think i would feel comfortable riding it at 100:1 but if Jeff leisk is running it, it can't be to harmful.
Thanks again, have a good Christmas!
 
the "comfort" factor is the biggest hurdle to get over and after a while you stop listening for noises and keep riding...cheers
 
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