• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1983 WR500 Clutch Adjustment...

A

ali-two-sinks

Husqvarna
I've just rebuilt my WR500 100% after being laid up for about 15 years.
I'm finding the clutch won't release drive to the rear wheel. I've got yellow springs installed and screwed the springs fully home. Is this correct? - I can't remember how I last set the clutch up and the handbook doesn't say to screw the springs in fully home?? It seemed to part when I tested it without the primary case on, but without the rear chain attached so I couldn't tell if it was freeing the drive.

Any thoughts would be appreciated as I've entered into a timed trial in about a week and a half away and I need to get familar with it again...
 
the clutches can "stick" when not warm and can go 10- 15' before "breaking" and working properly when they are cold. I scuffed all the plates with #400 paper and it seems to work well now with the occasional stick when cold
 
Not sure what fully home means. There is a hollow metal piece inside the spring so one screws tight to that. Most all multi plate wet clutches will make the chain go tight when started in neutral and shifted into gear at the initial start of that riding cycle.
 
as fran said the springs mount over spacers so yes all the way home should give them the correct amount of pre load, check for notching on the tynes and sand the plates as per suprize pre soak fibres before installation and do not overfill the cases as this increases the binding between the plates/fibres due to surface tension, adjust the screw/locknut so it just sits the push rod against the actuator cam on a standard actuator arm there should be 5/8" movement at the arm when the clutch is pulled.
 
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