• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1984 WR 400

nice build

bsh7680, i am looking for a few 84 wr400 parts. nothing major. joined today and couldnt figure out how to PM you. anyways, i am looking for a few headlight parts, speedo, and it also needs decals. let me know if youve got any of these. thanks!

oh ya, a question for you suprize........ i am trying to get my clutch cover back on after fixing frozen clutch plates.... how did you go about getting the kick starter tooth in? i got it in with a flathead, but it doesnt recoil correctly.
 
Wrap up after the harrow vinduro. took two washes to clean the harrow mud off. back break shoes were filthy and needed a good wire brushing. The front brakes were beggining to work ok. they needed a light clean as v little water got in. The right radiator had started leaking on the 2nd lap and a guts full off pepper had fixed it. the deflector edge had rubbed through the front of the tubes. Pulled that off and flushed thesystem. I noticed that i had stupidly joined theover flow hoses to a tee piece and it was venting to ground. fixed that up. changed thegearbox oil and it came out a funny dk grey color. As i had sanded the clutch plates, i assume that has discolored theoil. Otherwise, something is grinding inside! Not ideal.
The fork cap air bleed insert had leaked everywhere at practice and i had bodgyed up a duct tape seal which worked so i removed the forkcap and cleaned it up and retaped it with teflon tape. No air hissing out now.

Airfilter is still good so no need toclean that (no dust atall).
i found on arrival at harrow i had left the seat bolts out so i have to find them in the shed somewhere.
Barring any major internal issues, the bike is ready for its next ride. the forks havent started leaking, one shock has a very slight weep which could still be from reassembly. the headstem required a half turn nip up andthe top RHS shock mount bolt was loose. not bad from a just finished rebuild. it could have been a lot worse!!
Hopefully sept 16 at Bendigo willbe its next outing after some testing.
ISSUES:
vibration. despite just having the bottom end apart and reassembled with new roller bearings throughout, it shakes like meth addict beforethe nxt hit.
Forks. 10 wt oil is to thick on compression but nice on rebound. will try 7.5 nxt.
front brake just startedto shape up on the last lap, suspect some sand may have helped the shoes attain a nicer drum profile.
fuel cap leaked pooo everywhere, looks like the rubber is torn.(nothing worse than a torn rubber).
So thats that. a reliable scootercosting about 3.5k. Cheers
 
update: vinduro approaching so have changed main jet to 410 which was good, will try a 420 soon. Having lowerd the needle clip, i want to richen to main to spread a bit through the mid range, it felt too peaky at Harrow trying to get onto the main in top gear like it was starving. The fork airbleed insert is still leaking every where so Mick got me a newwy so that should fix that issue. every thing else should be fine for another run. Hopefully post some piccys up.
 
Nice Rebuild! I also have a WR 400 which I've owned since '93. I also discovered corrosion in the water pump housing on the clutch cover in about '94 and repaired it with araldite in a similar fashion to what you did. I'd been careful with what coolant I've used over the years but the coolant got under the araldite in June this year. Probably not a bad run from it, luckily i was keeping an eye on the coolant level and was aware of the issue. Now I've got it a part and I'm just wondering if anyone else has had good success with other products, I know JB weld is a popular choice. I'm open to any suggestions, but I guess the araldite has lasted really well.
 
just chase an aluminium cover. they are expensive but just removes the whole issue completely.

ol mate locally here is a welder and he rebuilt his CR Honda cover with weld and its held together so far so its an option to reweld it up. if you then powdercoat it, it may last a lot longer than std.
 
its a bit rough cosmetically but after this years Harrow where it rained for the entire race, I didn't worry about the plastics. A few pristine bikes all blinged up stayed on the trailer and a few now look very second hand! the bike is tight and great too ride.
 
I figure that when im too old to ride I will give it a big "back to std" resto, new plastics and park it in the lounge room.
 
Looks great, and reading your restore posts, I know what I am going to have to deal with! my waterpump housing and case is clean..I am not sure if it is magnesium or not. It looks too clean to be mag!
Anyway, look for my restore project soon. (As soon as I get my Sh&t together in the garage! Just got done restoring a 1973 Kawasaki G5 100, so I am done for a little bit. I already know I need a crank, and top end, piston says 82.42, so I assume it is a standard bore. Anyway, look for my posts soon. Great job on your WR 400, and l like the "redhead." Best of luck and talk to you all soon.
Cheers,
Les
 
looking forward to it. just prepping the 400 and the 510 to ride in the Blackwood Vinduro in a few weeks. did the fork seals but forgot to get some top out washers and yep one is "forked" Hoping Phil has put them in the post!

you can check out the Blackwood ride last year on the "riders in the Scrub" utube channel
 
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