• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1984 xc430 sag and muffler

jo360

Husqvarna
AA Class
just want to confirm correct method and sags for the itc twin shocks, and the muffler outlet opening bore for a wr430, the bike is a mix of a xc500 frame with a wr430 engine the muffler inlet seems about 35mm while the outlet is around 20mm which is smaller than my sons 125.
 
thanks john thought that might be the case, will break in the front end and adjust that to get a better balance, rear sag is set at 95mm at the moment but the hard front end is making the rear do all the work.
 
I loosely put a zip tie on the fork tube, so it can slide but then stays put, so i can check fork travel. As a starting point after i changed the fork
oil, i drop the bike off the stand & hammer the front brake as hard i can, standing next to the bike. If the zip tie only moves a couple of inches
it's too stiff. Do it a couple of times, sliding the zip tie back down to the fork boot everytime, your bike got almost modern bike travel so use it
all.
 
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