• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1985 500 CR Linkage Rebuild Questions

TahoeHusky

TahoeHusky

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hello to all at the cafe! It's been a while since I have posted here. The ole huskys been running good, but my lucks up because my linkage is now shot. Bikes already torn apart and I have the parts I need coming (at least the parts I think I need), that being the new bearings and seals etc. My first question is basically what components do I actually need to take out to properlly rebuild this. The tubular spacers that project from the two ends of the dog bone are both siezed in place and irremovable. The parts fiche indicates these are seperate parts and therefore removable, I have tried to get them out yet it is not possible. It would make sense to me that I could leave these in place and simply clean them up real good, but shouldn't they be easy to remove and not siezed like they are? I am referring to part 42 on the diagram by the way. My next question is in regards to the single dog bone end that connects to the frame which contains a single ball joint. I want to freshen my entire linkage up which I assume would mean replacing this ball joint, but this joint, as well as the upper and lower shock ball joints seem very difficult to remove with my current tools. Are these designed to be pressed in professionally or is there a way to build a press/puller out of bolts etc? Also, is there a way to determine whether or not these actually even need to be replaced? like my first question, I dont want to take it out if I dont have to. My third and final question pertains to the bearing races on the two verticle connecting links. As I mentioned, I am obviously replacing these, as the needles are rust, but as far as removing the old race, how would you guys recommend I do this? I have rebuilt other bearing components on other bikes and have used methods like heat and cold to remove/install bearings. Can I use these techniques here? Or is this situation better suited to an actual press? Or would the simple beat it with a socket in the vice technique work? (Doesnt look like it will to me). The pictures I have provided are of the parts fiche as well as the dog bone and verticle link bearing race. Any help would be greatly appreicated. Thank you.

20191027_171159_HDR.jpg 20191027_171228_HDR.jpg Screenshot_20191027-180642.png
 
2premo said:
been years but recall press to replace those
Click to expand...
Thank you for your response. I guess that solves the issue of the spacers, but how would you recommend i go about removing the bearing races? Unless you mean a press for those as well. Thanks
 
one important thing to remember, wether it is a 20 ton press or a vice with sockets
if you press across an opening, like the bone, as in part #44, be sure to support the gap as to not bend the ends
 
It is fixturing. Also interference fit as opposed to seized.

Looks like a cylinder to receive the piece, a press cylinder but short to fit in the fork, then a smaller diameter piece to push on. Once one is out it is a bit easier.

If you desire those new look at parts 3 and 35 as well. It can be hard to stop with that linkage. And the holes in the frame for the swingar pivot.
 
Yes I understand now that the spacers protruding the dog bone are press fit much like how the bearings are pressed into the links. I have decided to leave them in place since I dont see any reason to remove them. I have cleaned them well with oil and some light scotchbright to remove the surface rust. I also did this cleaning procedure to part # 35. It seems as though I do have some pitting occuring on these parts but im hoping the fresh bearings and grease will hopefully be enough to cure the play I had. I dry fit the spacer/bushings (part #35) into the verticle link sections after i had installed the new bearings and they seemed to have a tight fit, so hopefully we're good there. We will know for sure when I install it on the bike.

I also had a question regarding the rear shock absorber. Does the black plastic knurled "knob" towards the bottom of the shock serve any funtion? The part on my shock seems to be degrading and Im wondering if this is bad. It spins and clicks so i was thinking it could be an adjuster but it also didnt really seem like it could be. I know theres an adjuster at the top of the reservior but are there any others? Thanks.20191103_164436_HDR.jpg 20191103_164451_HDR.jpg 20191103_164500_HDR.jpg
 
So in this photo I have circled what I know to be the top adjuster by the reservior. I have also circled the part in question. So are u saying that this lower part is the rebound adjust? If so how does it work because it seems to be very rough to turn (clicking but rough)Screenshot_20191105-130802~2.png
 
If the shock is mounted push down on the seat and turn that black knob at the bottom and see the difference in how fast it comes back up. If not mounted, remove the spring and push and pull on the rod and not differences. It would not be rough when new, perhaps 17 clicks stop to stop so to speak. My guess.
 
The rebound adjuster will feel a lot rougher than a normal small clicker . If it winds all the up but then doesnt click on the way back down it means your shock has lost enough oil for the seperator piston to be topped out . Or it has just lost its pressure
 
It clicks in both directions just sort of rough. It only spins as if its on threads at the end of one direction of clicks. Ill have to check out if it works once it's installed. When i bought the bike about 5 years ago the guy said the shocks were recently rebuilt. Which it appears is true based in the fork seal condition. Only issue with rear is it seems a big springy. Im hoping the rebound with fix that.if not then maybe its low on nitrogen?
 
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