• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2 stroke engine brake

D

Dillon

Husqvarna
AA Class
I got looking into a decompression lever for my wr360 and came across this:
http://www.omarsdtr.com/dtcomprel.html
its a decompression lever that is hooked up to a cable and is mounted on the handlebars...
i guess back in the day these where all the rage because brakes weren't that good and these allowed the bikes to stop faster.
was wondering what would be involved in setting this up and what your guys opinions are on it.
what would be an ideal location to install it at?
 
MY DAD USED THEM ON ALL HIS OLD BIKES CZ'S YAMAHA SC500 MX 360 ANY BIG BORE WITH A DUAL PLUG HEAD AND LOTS OF COMPRESSION IT WAS FOR GETIN EM STARTED NOT STOPED
 
these where also used as engine brakes, im just trying to keep up with my buddies when we go riding... ones a crf250, cr250 and a kdx250. they all have great brakes and don't always pay attention when they are braking... need something to make up for my crappy brakes so i don't wreck my bike
 
IF YOUR ON THE VINTAGE BIKES YOU HAVE YOU NEED A LOT MORE THAN BETTER BREAKS AND A COMPRESSION RELEASE WHAT YOU NEED IS MORE BIKES IMHO LOL
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what would be involved in just a regular decompression lever if these aren't needed? just get a machinist to tap the head and weld a valve/lever in?
 
Why not salvage some parts so you could adapt a front disc brake? There has to be a ton of parts that would match up.
 
give the decomp a miss only fit as an aid to starting, used as an aid to braking could mean sucking in dust through the valve and premature wear of the cylinder.
you could try a modern ish front end with a disc brake but you would have to lower it.
 
I use one on my 73 360. it's a big help when the brakes get wet. Easy to install. never had trouble with them when I used them back in the day.
 
i would practice learning the bike....the brakes arent that great but do some research about arcing the shoes and getting them to work their best...
 
Another question... Is the rear brake on these bikes supposed to 'wobble' I took the rear wheel off to check the brakes and the inside hub was worn unevenly causing me to think that because when the wheel was put on by the previous owner it had a gap in the back of the hub where the brakes fit into the hub. And the brake assembly doesn't 'fit into ' the hub just kinda sits there and the gap is still present. Does this mean the hub is shot?
 
Dillon said:
Another question... Is the rear brake on these bikes supposed to 'wobble' I took the rear wheel off to check the brakes and the inside hub was worn unevenly causing me to think that because when the wheel was put on by the previous owner it had a gap in the back of the hub where the brakes fit into the hub. And the brake assembly doesn't 'fit into ' the hub just kinda sits there and the gap is still present. Does this mean the hub is shot?
Click to expand...

It is pretty hard to be much help long distance with no picutres but it sounds like a bushing might be missing. That one has rod from the plate to the frame perhaps 2 feet long doesn't it? There is a bushing/spacer that allows the backing plate rotate a bit as the wheel goes up and down. There is a pipe like thing between the wheel bearings that sometimes gets omitted. If you take the wheel out, put it on the axle with spacers, pipe, nut washer whatever and tighten up the axle nuts, fix securely and put a dial indicator on the drum surface and there is significant run out yes it is shot. Or even just clamp something close and watch. I was told years ago by an enthusiast dealer that the iron liner was cast in not pressed in later. I suppose it could be turned but it would take a pretty big lathe to do it without removing the spokes.

The part in post 14 above about the compression release helping when the brakes were wet reminded me of something. I remember losing the front and rear brakes in winter conditions but never both at the same time.

Fran
 
I'll get some pictures to show u tomorrow, there was so much dirt inside the hub the brake actuator barely moved... Took everything apart and its moving freely now, guess I'll have to take a look to make sire everything is there
 
Before you start thinking about upgrading your front brake. Take it apart, clean it, fit new shoes and arc them so they contact correctly and fit a new cable. By the description of your back brake, there seems to be a lack of maintenance.
Which front hub do you have ? Leleu (full width hub) or conical (half width and usually black). My 78 has the conical, and with EBC grooved shoes it will lock up on dry tarmac. No need for a disc brake !
The rears suffer badly from the bushings in the back plate wearing out at an alarming rate. Replace BOTH bushes. Failure to do so will result in the back plate rubbing on the hub and grinding the outer edge away. I have always found Husky brakes superb if set up correctly.
 
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