• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2007 TC electric starting issue

Guiton

Husqvarna
Hi all this is my first post. Iv got a 2007 Tc250 that has been kitted out with a road register kit eg lights, licence plate bracket, starter motor, speedo.
Here's my problem the bike would never start well......... after checking clearances which were out, the kick start fires up either first second or third kick. Brilliant !!!
When I try and use the electric start the motor turns over lovely (new battery fitted) but won't seem to fire up. I can keep trying for ages or until the battery drains but with no luck. After leaving it for a while I try the kick and it fires a lot easier. With in five kicks ??
I'm getting plenty of good spark. Clearances are spot on. Starts on the kicker quite well.

Hope that all makes sense to someone any ideas ?!

Cheers
 
Need more info.

Get hold of a quality digital multi-meter

Did the bike ever start using the electrics.

Who did the conversion for you? professional or back yarder?? or previous owner.

With bike in neutral press starter and slowly pull clutch lever in until electric starter kicks in. (All okay? then at least the basics of the electric starting circuit appear to be intact.)

When you say you get "plenty of good spark", is that spark plug out, grounded on side of cylinder and testing while trying the electric start?

When you do get it going, what voltage are you getting at battery? battery needs to be fully charged before doing this test, when its running at normal idle speed should be 12.5V & increase to 14.5V with-in 1 - 2 minutes or so

Turn bike / ignition off.

Unplug the wiring harness connector that goes into the left-hand case (should be five wires)

At the plug connector test the following.

EXCITER circuit is black /red and red /white wires, and needs to be 12.7 ohms + - 15%

CHARGE circuit is between yellow and white wires, and needs to be .16 ohms + - 15%

LAMP circuit is between yellow and earth/ground on the motor frame needs to be .65 ohms + - 15%

Write all the results down, Once you've done the test, do it again. (test twice = replace or repair once)

If any of the above readings are out of spec, time to start looking for an alternator.

Also, go easy on your starter motor, they don't like being cranked over & over & over, they burn out (5 second bust then a little wait and another 5 second burst, no different to kick start, if it doesn't start instantly or by 3rd go, you need to start doing a mental check = choke, bung hole in the exhaust, fuel tap etc. (only last 2 items you have to check when you have idiot mates that like to see you break into a sweat kicking it over, after they've casually walked past and sabotaged your bike)


spyshadow
 
Hi spyshadow
Thanks so much for your reply !!! If ordered a muilti meter so il come back with the results soon. The bike has never really started on the button but fires well when kicked, just spins the motor over with no fire up. Basic checked with the clutch all normal, Checked plug while out and grounded plenty of spark very frequent. The last owner had the conversion done but looking at the finish and wiring it was completed to a high standard
Just a real head scratcher. I'm fine with kicking but it is a slight annoyance when friends bikes fire up at the sniff of the electric start.

Thanks again
 
Hi
Iv borrowed a multi meter and have some results. After watching videos and reading I'm 80% sure I'm taking the reading correctly but they are well out of spec ????
Battery 12.7
Exciter Has a reading of 26.8 ohms
Couldn't get a ohms reading off the Charge circuit ?????
This is my first time using a multi meter so pleases go easy hahah ???
Found out the bike has a husky electric stater kit fitted by a husky dealer, so that should be all good.

Thanks
 
Gday Guiton
I assume its a digital multi-meter, as we are testing items that require reasonably accurate measurement.
With the range or scale button on the ohm reading (not megohm or Kilo-ohm, just the ohm symbol) touch the two leads together, should drop down to zero reading. confirms your leads are OK and battery in tester is good.

Now, To confirm you are using correctly try testing a resistance that is known, a 12V 21W globe from your car indicator will be .4 ohm
If you get this, - give or take 15% your doing pretty good.

NOTE: digital meters have an "auto off" function after a few minutes of no use, so be aware that this happens.

battery at 12.7 is that when its running at idle or before start or during start?

EXCITER circuit is black /red and red /white wires, and needs to be 12.7 ohms + - 15%

CHARGE circuit is between yellow and white wires, and needs to be .16 ohms + - 15%

LAMP circuit is between yellow and earth/ground on the motor frame needs to be .65 ohms + - 15%

There are other wires in this plug but you only need to be concerned with the ones above.

If your readings differ from whats been specified (comes out of my TE 250 2007 manual) then i would suggest you turn the fuel off, remove seat and tank, disconnect both molded plugs (2 wire and the 5 wire) that head down to the stator, lay bike down on right hand side, with handle bars on milk crate or similar.
8mm socket and remove the 6 bolts around the alternator cover, (as always insert these into a cardboard drawing of the shape of the cover your removing so that same bolt length will go back into same hole.
Carefully remove the cover off the engine, Magnets on flywheel will seem like its stuck but keep gently working it off, (minimal oil if any will spill out. Turn cover plate over and visually inspect the stator.

Very easy to do, and if your careful, you can re-use same gasket after a good clean (brake clean or similar) and a smear of ultra grey silastic.

If you are getting those readings off your exciter and charge circuit, you should see discoloration on the coils that are stuffed.
They can be rewound by an Auto Electrician or just re-order new parts.

As with all things found to be faulty, Its good to work out WHY??? you dont want to replace item and find out this one has a melt down as well.

There's a search button at top right of screen that I use all the time to research a specific problem, its a ripper for fast tracking to previous posts about similar topics.

Take some photos if possible.

And keep asking questions, plenty of people on this forum that are friendly and way more knowledgeable than me.
Good luck

spyshadow
 
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