I would like to know the procedures for changing oil in a 2008 te510 just bought the bike has 34 miles on it came with no manual.This is my first huskie and after just riding around already fallling in love with the smooth power deliver and just plain awesome of a bike .Whish i would have swithced a long time ago.Any help would be appreiciated thanks
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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
2008 te510 oil change
- Thread starter jjbark35
- Start date
This is a good read and might help ya out a bit. TE 250 Remove Oil Filter Screen
Try this also TE 510 manual
Try this also TE 510 manual
ioneater
Husqvarna
AA Class
Ok, here you go. There are various screens and filters all over this engine which may be a little different than what you're used to seeing on other bikes.
First, remove the drain plug from the bottom of the engine with an allen wrench. Be mindful of the copper washer sticking to the bottom of the engine if it's not on the plug. It may fall off into your drain pan. IT IS REQUIRED for reinstallation. Torque for reinstall: 18.4 ft/lb
Next, remove the 3 8mm bolts from the paper cartridge filter cover. The O-ring is installed on the cover itself and is re-usable many times if handled with care and cleaned before reinstallation. There will also be a tension spring between the cover and filter that will fall out. This is normal. Use a dab of grease to hold it in place during re-installation or tip the bike onto its left side and let gravity do the work. Not a big deal. Reinstall torque on 3 bolts: 4.3 ft/lb
Here is where things get a little more unique. On the lower left side of the engine you'll see a small plate secured with 2 hex bolts. Directly forward of that plate you'll see what looks like another allen keyed drain plug. The plate and the plug both have metal screens behind them that must be removed on those 1st critical oil changes. The plate has a dual screen element behind it, which is basically a screen installed in another screen. They can be separated once removed and inspected/cleaned individually. If you look into the crankcase behind them after removal you will see the drain plug hole! Dual screen bolt torques: 4.3 ft/lb
The forward plug mentioned above has a single metal screen behind it. Sometimes it can be tricky to remove. Here is a very special tool I custom fabricated in my office
There is an O-ring installed between that plug and the screen that can be challenging to snag. If you use patience and the "special tool" or a pick of some sort you'll extract it and be able to reuse it many times. Plug reinstall torque: 18.4 ft/lb
Chances are you're going to find a fair amount of ferrous metal on the magnetic drain plug. Normal. The metal screens may have bits of metal and some orange/red chunks of gasket material. Normal. You will probably see this stuff for several subsequent oil changes. Normal.
Oh yeah, the metal screens can be cleaned with gas, diesel, kerosene and the like.
Hope this helps you out.
Edit: Refill with whatever oil you have chosen. Go to the upper level marks on the sight glass initially. Start it up and let it run for a few minutes. Shut down, let oil drain back into crankcase and add oil if required.
First, remove the drain plug from the bottom of the engine with an allen wrench. Be mindful of the copper washer sticking to the bottom of the engine if it's not on the plug. It may fall off into your drain pan. IT IS REQUIRED for reinstallation. Torque for reinstall: 18.4 ft/lb
Next, remove the 3 8mm bolts from the paper cartridge filter cover. The O-ring is installed on the cover itself and is re-usable many times if handled with care and cleaned before reinstallation. There will also be a tension spring between the cover and filter that will fall out. This is normal. Use a dab of grease to hold it in place during re-installation or tip the bike onto its left side and let gravity do the work. Not a big deal. Reinstall torque on 3 bolts: 4.3 ft/lb
Here is where things get a little more unique. On the lower left side of the engine you'll see a small plate secured with 2 hex bolts. Directly forward of that plate you'll see what looks like another allen keyed drain plug. The plate and the plug both have metal screens behind them that must be removed on those 1st critical oil changes. The plate has a dual screen element behind it, which is basically a screen installed in another screen. They can be separated once removed and inspected/cleaned individually. If you look into the crankcase behind them after removal you will see the drain plug hole! Dual screen bolt torques: 4.3 ft/lb
The forward plug mentioned above has a single metal screen behind it. Sometimes it can be tricky to remove. Here is a very special tool I custom fabricated in my office
There is an O-ring installed between that plug and the screen that can be challenging to snag. If you use patience and the "special tool" or a pick of some sort you'll extract it and be able to reuse it many times. Plug reinstall torque: 18.4 ft/lb
Chances are you're going to find a fair amount of ferrous metal on the magnetic drain plug. Normal. The metal screens may have bits of metal and some orange/red chunks of gasket material. Normal. You will probably see this stuff for several subsequent oil changes. Normal.
Oh yeah, the metal screens can be cleaned with gas, diesel, kerosene and the like.
Hope this helps you out.
Edit: Refill with whatever oil you have chosen. Go to the upper level marks on the sight glass initially. Start it up and let it run for a few minutes. Shut down, let oil drain back into crankcase and add oil if required.
Jrmobb
Husqvarna
AA Class
Here was my detailed write up on my first oil change. The 08 is the as the 09.
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=797562&highlight=
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=797562&highlight=
ghte
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Ioneater, (great vid of you the other day by the way, great riding trail there)you mentioned re-use of paper filters by cleaning. Would you care to share with us what cleaning methods you use. I typically just chuck them on every second oil change which is about every 500 kms on average. Happy to extend their effective life however.
Ciao.
Ciao.
ioneater
Husqvarna
AA Class
ghte;86765 said:
I was talking about cleaning the metal screens on the left side of the engine. I throw away the paper filter element from the right side after inspecting the pleats for any "gold nuggets". I, too also replace the paper filter every second oil change. I have heard of re-usable stainless steel filters to replace the disposable paper version, but I don't use them.
Sorry if I caused confusion with the write up. I noticed my edit was inserted in the wrong spot, too. Oops, I was multitasking
I don't know about you guys, but I got tired of messing with those 2 drain bolts on the left side. It's a stupid setup that I just couldn't take any longer. I had to do something to make it easier.
http://www.cafehusky.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9743
http://www.7602racing.com/prod_husky_oil_bolts.php
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http://www.cafehusky.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9743
http://www.7602racing.com/prod_husky_oil_bolts.php