• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2010 TE 250 Charging circuit problems

marcus

Husqvarna
A Class
Hi guys, just wondering if anyone can help me out? The issue first started while out for a ride and the bike stalled and wouldn't start again as if the battery was dead. I bought a new battery thinking it was the cause but went for a ride and the exact same thing happened. I charged the new battery back up to about 13v and started the bike and discovered the voltage only went to about 12v (should be 14v ish). i Checked the resistance of the stator windings (between the yellow leads on the plug that goes into the rec/reg) and got about 0.6Ω between each combination of yellow-yellow. Checked for shorts from yellow to earth as well and they were all open which seemed the stator was good. So i ordered a rec/reg thinking it was a sure fix......... fitted the new one and the same problem only getting around 12v while bike is running. So back to the stator i went and checked the output of the yellow wires on the reg/rec plug while the bike was idleing it was putting out about 35Vac between each combination of yellow-yellow and went up to over 100Vac when revved. Then i checked the voltage at each yellow - earth (frame) and only got about 3.5Vac and up to about 10Vac when revved. Does anyone know if these reading could be expected from the stator? Im really hoping its not the stator as i think its over $1000 dollars to replace here in Australia, not to mention the bike has only got 7hrs on it and ran out of warranty in FEB. I've read a few threads about similar issues but I am still not 100% sure. Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
Hi, I have a 100% same problem with my 2010 TE 250. Start's ok when cold but when warm/hot it acts like the battery is almost dead. I would also appreciate help with the issue.
 
Can you ride the bike now? You wrote that you went for a ride again and same thing happened? Are you able to ride for a certain while before it happens?

Can you turn the key and the LED goes on?

It's not the fuel pump jarring loose that causes it to stall and not fire up until you put more gas in it? I had that problem and seems to be a common occurence for TE models.
 
Can you ride the bike now? You wrote that you went for a ride again and same thing happened? Are you able to ride for a certain while before it happens?

Can you turn the key and the LED goes on?

It's not the fuel pump jarring loose that causes it to stall and not fire up until you put more gas in it? I had that problem and seems to be a common occurence for TE models.
I can ride the bike but i have to charge the battery externally and it will only last so long till the battery dies and the bike splutters and dies (leaving me stranded) then it wont kick over as the battery is dead. The bike kicks over fine as long as its charged, and as I ride the display drops out after a while (probably due to low voltage by then).
 
WE HAD A 2010 te 310 run poorly recently and voltage output was in the low 12v range when running.found voltage regulator to be hot ...real hot.replaced volt reg and all fixed.dan
 
WE HAD A 2010 te 310 run poorly recently and voltage output was in the low 12v range when running.found voltage regulator to be hot ...real hot.replaced volt reg and all fixed.dan
Yeah I thought that would have been the dead set fix, but ordered a new one and installed it and it seems the same (dont know if its worth trying a 2nd new one as the other might have been DOA)..... once the bike heats up the voltage starts to drop. Is there a limited time you can run your bike in your garage before it starts to overheat??
 
Quick update: I took out the battery and gave it a good charge overnight and installed it in the morn. Started the bike and voltage was hovering around 14.2-14.5Vdc which looked good. I let the bike idle in the garage for about 10 minutes and when it was warm the voltage dropped to about 13-13.5Vdc which may still be in range (it was about the same time the radiator fan kicked in but the fan was not the cause of the drop as i momentarily pulled the fan fuse and the voltage still stayed 13-13.5Vdc). The regulator/rectifier was definitely getting warm to the point where you cant keep your hand on it. But now i'm thinking I might take it for a ride and see if it drops while riding as it may not be designed to sit at idle in the garage as it has no airflow. Has anyone else experienced this?
 
Went for a 15 min ride and came back and voltage was at 12.9Vdc at idle, quickly connected old reg/rec (it was cold) and exact same value....... Its almost as if there is something drawing too much on it when the bike is hot.
 
Finally sorted the fault out!! (touch wood) It ended up being a bad connection on the starter relay, it was passing all wiring continuity checks from the reg/rec plug to battery but it must have been very slight contact as it has obviously heated up and even had slight damage on the inside of the connector plug. So I cleaned it up a bit and bent the contact so it has a good contact, started the bike and it seems to have a steady 13.9 - 14 Vdc even after the bike is hot. (hope there's no damage to the new reg/rec as it basically wasn't getting to the battery and there's a warning in the workshop manual that states not to disconnect the battery when bike is running or it damages the reg/rec) I'll see how it goes next ride but i'm pretty confident that it's all sorted. Thanks for your input guys its greatly appreciated!! I'll also post some pics
 
Hi, I have a 100% same problem with my 2010 TE 250. Start's ok when cold but when warm/hot it acts like the battery is almost dead. I would also appreciate help with the issue.
Let me know how you go Teddy, if you need any help (your problem might not be 100% the same) let me know as i think i'm all read up on this system now. Will be interesting if yours ends up being the same.
 
I love posts like this. Where I am it's imperative that I have all of the info I can get as to problems/fixes for my TE. The nearest dealer is 5 hours drive from here and I doubt that I'd let them touch my bike anyway. Great post!
 
Hi guys! I'm new to the forum and just registered due to this same type of problem, perhaps a bit different though.
Can you have a read and see if this seems familiar to your encounters?

My bike also runs great while cold and battery is charged. After a while and while warm it runs more slow and the revving seems hard to get (slow somehow, like to little air or something).
Soon the gasoline light starts to light up (there is gas in the tank, no problem there) and the engine runs even worse, until it does a weird high-to-low rev a few times and then dies.
Now the electrical system seems dead, the electrical start doesn't work but my dashboard is still on.
The bike starts after a little rest, but only with the kick-start, and it runs reeeally bad until it dies the same way again.

I replaced the battery last week after trying a friends battery which seemed to solve the issue, but yesterday (a total runtime of about 2 hours since new battery installed) this all happened again, probably the battery was good enough to actually last for that long without the charging being sufficient.

I will check the relay today and also try to read the VAC values from the generator to eliminate some more possibilities of error.

/Markus
 
Hi guys! I'm new to the forum and just registered due to this same type of problem, perhaps a bit different though.
Can you have a read and see if this seems familiar to your encounters?

My bike also runs great while cold and battery is charged. After a while and while warm it runs more slow and the revving seems hard to get (slow somehow, like to little air or something).
Soon the gasoline light starts to light up (there is gas in the tank, no problem there) and the engine runs even worse, until it does a weird high-to-low rev a few times and then dies.
Now the electrical system seems dead, the electrical start doesn't work but my dashboard is still on.
The bike starts after a little rest, but only with the kick-start, and it runs reeeally bad until it dies the same way again.

I replaced the battery last week after trying a friends battery which seemed to solve the issue, but yesterday (a total runtime of about 2 hours since new battery installed) this all happened again, probably the battery was good enough to actually last for that long without the charging being sufficient.

I will check the relay today and also try to read the VAC values from the generator to eliminate some more possibilities of error.

/Markus

Hi Sicarius,
sounds very similar to the issue I had. It may not be the exact same fault but it sounds like a charging issue. When the battery gets low the bike starts to run real bad as it doesn't have enough power for the fuel pump etc. If you leave it for a while the battery gets a slight charge and will only start and run for a short period. What voltage do you get at the battery while running? and also rev it to see what the voltage goes up to. You will have to physically disconnect the electrical contacts to inspect including your regulator/rectifier, starter relay, fuses(make sure it isn't blown too) etc. You are looking for any loose, discoloured, dirty, corroded or melted contacts. Also check that none of the wiring has been crushed. If you check the generator winding resistance and compare to the values I got, it will give a good indication that the stator is good. Also don't trust continuity tests on the wiring as it indicated fine on mine but it didn't have enough contact to pass enough current to charge. Anyways, let me know how you go and what the issue was as I am interested to see if its similar to the issue I had. Let me know if there's anything more I can do to help.

Cheers, Mark.
 
Hi Sicarius,
sounds very similar to the issue I had. It may not be the exact same fault but it sounds like a charging issue. When the battery gets low the bike starts to run real bad as it doesn't have enough power for the fuel pump etc. If you leave it for a while the battery gets a slight charge and will only start and run for a short period. What voltage do you get at the battery while running? and also rev it to see what the voltage goes up to. You will have to physically disconnect the electrical contacts to inspect including your regulator/rectifier, starter relay, fuses(make sure it isn't blown too) etc. You are looking for any loose, discoloured, dirty, corroded or melted contacts. Also check that none of the wiring has been crushed. If you check the generator winding resistance and compare to the values I got, it will give a good indication that the stator is good. Also don't trust continuity tests on the wiring as it indicated fine on mine but it didn't have enough contact to pass enough current to charge. Anyways, let me know how you go and what the issue was as I am interested to see if its similar to the issue I had. Let me know if there's anything more I can do to help.

Cheers, Mark.


Hi Mark, thanks for your thoughts!

I did some measuring on my bike yesterday before riding and at the same time checking all sorts of contacts and fuses, I also cleaned them thoroughly and with electronics cleanerspray.
After that the bike worked like a charm! Probably a faulty connector somewhere, and I can't pinpoint which one I am afraid. None of the connectors looked either bad nor broken to my eye.
The connectors I primarily checked were of course the wiring out of the generator, in to the regulator, out of the regulator, in and out of the starter relay and the fuses and and relays besides the fuses.

Before these steps my battery measured voltage loss while running the bike, afterwards it was actually charging the battery and when I got home I put the battery into a charger and it said the battery was already full, so the charging now works!
The output of the generator should give about 50-60 VAC in all 3 yellow wires antering the regulator, with a rev of about 3000.
Then check the red cable from the regulator (to make sure nothing's faulty in between regulator and battery) and ground, this should give about 13-15 VDC, which should also be the same value when measuring over the poles of the battery.
My bike actually gave a lower voltage when revving a bit, but still it was above 14 anyway so the battery is charging and delivering enough voltage.

My conclusion to this is to, some time every year probably, open all connectors and clean them thoroughly. Also do a measuring of the generator and regulator just to make sure.
There aren't that many actually, shouldn't take much more than a few hours to get them all clean.


Have a great day!
Markus
 
I have this same problem, trying to source a regulator to replace after some testing I did with it. It's been on Backorder for four weeks now. Anyone have a different source to find one?
 
I replaced the voltage regulator but I can watch the battery drop on the meter while its running (V12.30 and dropping). Just pulled all the wiring plugs and cleaned them with electronic spray cleaner. I did also checked the starter relay and pulled the same plug and checked it. It looks fine but I am going to bend it and see if I can get a better contact. I think I will check the Stator again and find all the grounds and clean them.
 
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