• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2010 te250 front axle

Steam

Steam

Husqvarna
B Class
the manual for the 2010 te250 shows the front axle with a built-in pull. mine has a 1/2-round where you might envision a pull, but no pull.

plus, that end of the axle is heinously tight... i have to drive it out. even with a pull you would not be able to get it out by hand. last time i drove a wedge in the pinch area and relieved the bite on the axle, and that helped. i'm thinking of taking it to a fabricator to mill a slight amount out of the fork, and have a pull welded on.

anyone out there with experience with a 2010 te250 front axle?
 
Yes.. Our bike(2010 TE 250) had a tough axle "WITHOUT" the pull also.. We added the pull and a Zipty axle nut and I was able to bump the axle out far enough to use the pull for the rest of the removal.. I did not remove any material from the leg..

Chow, Carl
 
2010 TXC250, axle not tight but no pull handle. I would have someone take a .001 off the axle not the fork. EZ to do on a lathe.
 
Before you do any machining, I'd verify 2 things:

Is the axle straight?

Are the forks aligned?

One or both of the above issues can cause the symptoms you describe.
 
I'll repost this if you want some advice on setting the axles in properly. From George @ Uptite, mostly on setting the axle and a little on forks.

"Now that the debate on torque values is over.??? When you set LH fork leg heigth in the clamp Do Not think the other side will be the same, get it close then set it by how the axle goes in. You might have to either lower or raise it, so the axle goes in smooth. You can usually see it hitting the top or bottom of the axle hole on the LH side. Once you get the axle to just slide gently from one side to the other it is lined up properly. Now one side might be up or slightly down on the rings this is ok and it is right. You can tell if have to use palm of your hand or mallet to get the axle thru the forks when putting front wheel on. Later George

After the forks are installed to the correct heigth(where you want them), where the axle slides thru nicely, torque the clamp bolts both sides upper and lower to specs. With wheel installed and axle nut tight, thighten lower fork leg axle pinch bolts on the LH side( making sure the grab bar on the RH side of the axle is not touching the fork protecter)now slam it into a wall then tighten the axle pinch bolts on the RH side.
If while riding and you smack anything log, rock,get caught in a rut where you've dragged the lower leg, or rubbed it hard just loosen the pinch bolts and give it a good smack into anything solid to realign it on the axle. I think this is main reason other than dirt contamination fork seals wear out and leak. Later George
 
thanks for the info. couple things... the rh side is tight as h3!! even with no other forces acting on it, so in my mind, it's too tight.

kelly, i agree the axle would be easier to lathe... i was thinking out loud about not "weakening" the axle by removing any material, but the amount needed to ease the clearance is negligible, i'm sure.

carl, how did you add a pull?
 
Steam,

I took and Stainless steel rod and bent it up to look like the original(09 TE/TXC) and had it welded up.. Thats on the front...

Keep in mind the the rear one is Indexed for the axle block so if you do that on make sure your not 180 degrees out. This axle pul will not rotate til it comes out of the block..

Not sure of the prices but you could buy both 09 axles and forget the fab and welding..

Hope it helps

Chow, Carl
 
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