2010 TE250 new to me - Questions

[rgmr250]

I recently bought a 2010 TE250 with 388KM on it. The guy bought it, had it professionally lowered, put a low Seat Concepts seat cover/foam on it, added touratech rear rack, rad guards, skidplate, JD Tuner, Cycra hand guards. It's been powered up (O2 is missing, plug in place, cat removed etc. He never got used to it, and wanted something more 'streetable' (we were/are considering a trade with my KLX). I've raised up the bike a little but moving the forks back down the triple clamps and adding more preload on the rear shock. I'm likely going to need a stiffer shock spring because once I have good rider sag, the static sag is almost nothing.

My previous ride was a 2011 Kawasaki KLX250s (which I still currently have.) I pretty much exclusively ride tight, technical single track. I really like the Husky - it's almost 50lbs lighter than the KLX.

What I've found so far: the Husky wants to be ridden fast - it doesn't seem to like it slow. It seems to like to stall (flame out) a lot, usually at the worst of times. It doesn't appear to have the TXC ECU and 12-nozzle injector. I've bumped the idle speed up a little and adjusted the fueling with the JD tuner to add more fuel at idle, which seems to have helped. Changing my riding style is helping as well.

Other things I've done:
I just installed a 12T front sprocket (to go with the 50T rear). The KLX was 14/42 stock, and I went to 13/49. I felt the 13/50 on the Husky was still a little tall for what I ride.

I installed the dual map switch - but it doesn't seem to do anything? What's the trick? When I turn on the bike, I see SEL1 on the display, but pressing/holding the map switch doesn't do anything. I tried holding it with the bike off, with the bike running, holding it when turning the key on etc., but I don't see SEL2 show up on the display at any time.

I ordered a MME clutch lever (easier pull, but also makes the friction zone larger, which I'm used to on the KLX). For some reason, I thought the TE had a Magura clutch, so when I ordered, I gave Steve the year/make/model, but mentioned Magura in the email, so he shipped the lever for the Magura. I'm shipping it back, and he's sending me the Brembo version.

I was surprised that the headlight, brake light, signals and horn all only work with the engine running. When I first got it, I thought something was wrong, electrically...

So, right now, my real question is with regards to the map switch and why it doesn't seem to be working?

 

[MotoXImage]

Lowered Suspension
If the bike has been professionally lowered adding preload to compensate for height is a bad idea. At best a heavier spring will be a compromise. I would call Ty at http://www.ziptyracing.com They are a trusted source for your Husky mods. You can also find other sources by using the CH Sponsor link below the header on this page.

Map Switch
Make sure that you firmly press the mode button for at least 3 seconds. Also I would confirm that "all" of the powerup instructions were completed.
There is a note at the end that says that "The switch works ONLY with the bike in full power" From what i've read the map switch isn't very noticeable on the TE250.
Heres the powerup instruction link. http://www.dualsportbc.com/photogallery/data/906/1Full_power_instructions_TE-TXC_250-310.pdf

 

[rgmr250]

I realized that i read somewhere that the switch doesn't work until the engine reaches a certain temp. I hadn't let it warm up before trying the switch. Anybody able to confirm that it doesn't with until warmed up.?

 

[rgmr250]

Took it for a short ride today. Sure enough, it just needs to be warmed up before the map switch works.

 

[rgmr250]

Lowered Suspension
If the bike has been professionally lowered adding preload to compensate for height is a bad idea. At best a heavier spring will be a compromise. I would call Ty at http://www.ziptyracing.com They are a trusted source for your Husky mods. You can also find other sources by using the CH Sponsor link below the header on this page.

Map Switch
Make sure that you firmly press the mode button for at least 3 seconds. Also I would confirm that "all" of the powerup instructions were completed.
There is a note at the end that says that "The switch works ONLY with the bike in full power" From what i've read the map switch isn't very noticeable on the TE250.
Heres the powerup instruction link. http://www.dualsportbc.com/photogallery/data/906/1Full_power_instructions_TE-TXC_250-310.pdf

I was adding preload because he had the preload backed way off (and a lighter rate spring) - the PO weighs 50lbs less than me. I likely will need to change the spring for a higher rate since when I get the rider sag pretty close, the static sag is almost nothing. For the riding I do, I like it a little softer, but the way I have it set up, I'll be topping out too easily. I haven't ridden it enough to know for sure yet, but by proper measurements, I 'should' put in a higher rate spring. The front forks, with the lower rate spring feel good - I even dialed out some compression damping. I don't think I'll go back to the stock springs. I put a zip-tie around one of the fork tubes, to see how much max travel I'm getting on a ride, so I'll see. If I'm not bottoming, I'll likely leave the fork springs in.

Re the Map switch, my reply about the map switch was waiting for mod approval, so it had been sitting there for a few days. As Mentioned, it seems to work fine, and there's a noticeable difference between the two maps. With the 'wet (SEL2) map, I wasn't flaming out like I was with the SEL1 (dry) map. There's definitely a difference in power, though, but mostly up top. I found that it only needed to be pressed about 1-2 sec to work, and works while riding, which is nice. I did some fiddling with the JD tuner settings - it was pretty good, then I made some changes and made it worse, then keep trying different combinations until I got it good - I think I can get it better, but just need some more testing on it.

Re the power up, it appears that the following has been done: O2 removed, plug in it's place, O2 sensor port plugged with the electrical plug, throttle stop removed, 50T rear sprocket (and a 12T front that I put on), cat removed, and the air filter just has the frame - the restrictor is gone.

 

[R_Little]

That is powered up.

I had my 2010 TE250 since 2010 and did not even know it had two maps.
I see "SEL 1" pop up on the dash but never knew what it meant.
Where did you get the switch?

I still have the stock ECU and 4pt injector and after fidling with I-beat and adding an Arrow Ti pipe it runs great.

I also have a 2012 TXC310 and while it snaps harder on the bottom, the TE is smoother in bad traction and flames out less than the 310. Top end is about the same.

It can be made to run very well.

 

[rgmr250]

That is powered up.

I had my 2010 TE250 since 2010 and did not even know it had two maps.
I see "SEL 1" pop up on the dash but never knew what it meant.
Where did you get the switch?

I still have the stock ECU and 4pt injector and after fidling with I-beat and adding an Arrow Ti pipe it runs great.

I also have a 2012 TXC310 and while it snaps harder on the bottom, the TE is smoother in bad traction and flames out less than the 310. Top end is about the same.

It can be made to run very well.

Part # for the map switch is:8000H0590
I got it from my local KTM/Husqvarna dealership. Cost me something like $27 Canadian. Looks like you can get it here as well: http://www.ktm-parts.com/8000H0590.html

I don't have iBeat, but have a JD tuner and have been fiddling with the settings on it. The only issue for me is that I'm somewhat color blind, so I generally can't tell the difference between green, red and yellow when it's from tiny little LED's like that. If all 3 were lit up side-by-side, I could tell the difference between them, but when just one is lit up, I usually can't. So, I have to figure out the sequence that they light up in, so I can knowledgeably adjust the settings. I, as far as I know, still have the stock injector and ECU - I considered the upgrade, but that's a lot of money to be spent. The SEL2 map was definitely better on the slow, technical stuff - once I get the JD tuner set just right it should be great. I'm coming from a KLX250S that's like a tractor down low - you can almost let the clutch out at idle and not stall it - because of this it's easier to get going up a steep hill, if stuck part way up, by feathering the clutch and getting it moving without any wheelspin. The Husky just wants to spin out the rear wheel.

 

[rgmr250]

I'm curious what the setup is on the forum for 'new' users? It took several weeks for my account to get 'approved' initially, and each of my forum replies still waits for moderation before becoming visible to others. I know that steps need to be taken to avoid spammers etc., and I'm sure the mods are up to their eyeballs with admin on the site - I'm taking over the forum administration on our local dirt bike club, so I'll get some first-hand knowledge of what's involved. Is there a minimum # of posts before replies don't have to wait for moderation etc.? I know on the Goldwing forum you have to make 15 posts before you can create/reply to PM's or post pictures etc. - is there a minimum here as well? Thanks.

 

[R_Little]

Part # for the map switch is:8000H0590
I got it from my local KTM/Husqvarna dealership. Cost me something like $27 Canadian. Looks like you can get it here as well: http://www.ktm-parts.com/8000H0590.html

I don't have iBeat, but have a JD tuner and have been fiddling with the settings on it. The only issue for me is that I'm somewhat color blind, so I generally can't tell the difference between green, red and yellow when it's from tiny little LED's like that. If all 3 were lit up side-by-side, I could tell the difference between them, but when just one is lit up, I usually can't. So, I have to figure out the sequence that they light up in, so I can knowledgeably adjust the settings. I, as far as I know, still have the stock injector and ECU - I considered the upgrade, but that's a lot of money to be spent. The SEL2 map was definitely better on the slow, technical stuff - once I get the JD tuner set just right it should be great. I'm coming from a KLX250S that's like a tractor down low - you can almost let the clutch out at idle and not stall it - because of this it's easier to get going up a steep hill, if stuck part way up, by feathering the clutch and getting it moving without any wheelspin. The Husky just wants to spin out the rear wheel.

Where does the switch plug into?

Depending on your gearing it may take a little clutch to get the bike going. I have a 13/51 combo and I have no problems at all with that. The Tranny is little high and tight but you get used to it.

These bikes are sensitive to TPS settings as well and you cant adjust TPS with JD tuner as far as I know. OTOH, the TPS seems to come correct stock and doesn't get messed up unless someone plays with the screw.

Maybe you should keep an eye out for an I-Beat cable in the classifieds.

 

[rgmr250]

Where does the switch plug into?

Depending on your gearing it may take a little clutch to get the bike going. I have a 13/51 combo and I have no problems at all with that. The Tranny is little high and tight but you get used to it.

These bikes are sensitive to TPS settings as well and you cant adjust TPS with JD tuner as far as I know. OTOH, the TPS seems to come correct stock and doesn't get messed up unless someone plays with the screw.

Maybe you should keep an eye out for an I-Beat cable in the classifieds.

The Switch plugs into a white 2-pin connector that's on the left side of the steering stem.

I have gone to 12/50 gearing combo, which is better for the riding I do. I also ordered a MME clutch lever (shorty two-finger, which is what I'm used to, has 1/2 the pull tension and has a larger friction zone - a nice, for me, side effect of the lighter pull - he moves the pivot point to get the lighter pull.) Lever should arrive in the next few days.

I'd read about the TPS - seems the only way to check/fix it is with iBeat. I saw a thread about making your own iBeat cable - a bit convoluted, but looks like it works.