• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2010 te250 tech help and ?'s

D

DougW

Husqvarna
AA Class
I have a few questions maybe some one can answer please.

1 - what do I do with the air canister on the engines right side? Do I just remove it and block off the engine hose? This wasn't specified in the p.u. service bulletin.

2- Some one on T.T. suggest that I just go ahead and put the full power up kit on because the bike came lean and by going to the unplugged mapping would help richen the bike some and that would be better then trying to break the bike in lean. After reading a few posts here, it seemed like changing the mapping settings was also the way to go. ? is, what is your opinion and do you agree?

3- I removed the circlip from the mufflers end and removed the screen spark arrester. The P.U. kit had another pipe piece in it that would take the place of the screen. What is that for? To me the screen didn't seem like it would effect the sound any or not near as much as this piece of pipe, which would almost lead me to think that this 6" pipe would dead'n the sound a bit more. Thoughts? I realize I can't use both at the same time and so I would have to leave the screen in for trail riding.

Thanks
Doug
 
My bike did not come with the canister but I would remove it and plug the hole (if it has one) that causes a air leak at the engine. If it is the canister that I am thinking it just goes from your gas cap vent hose to this canister? That is to catch the small amounts of fumes from your gas tank cap and transfers this to the engine.

The best thing would be to have your dealer set it up with some richer settings using Ibeat. When new the bike runs horrible with all of the emissions removed and O2 in, the FI is supposed to be learning how to compensate for this. On my '10 TXC I put it in race mode and richened it up.

When you transfer over to your race map plug by removing the O2 sensor and plugging in the lambda plug. I would run the open air filter cage, remove the 6 inch pipe in between the exhaust pipe and silencer, remove O2 and install plug. I would probably keep the Spark Arrestor screen in as it is going to run too lean with this out. You will still be a little too lean in my opinion but at least it is going to run a little better.

The 6 inch pipe in the exhaust and air filter cage is a way of making these bikes pass strict noise emissions in other countries. At least that is what I think.
 
That part, the one in the middle of the exhaust system, that looks like a honey comb, is actualya cat. converter, it help also with sound.
 
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