• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

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2010 txc 250 Hot starting issues

Joey-243

Husqvarna
Hello, new to the site and I am having some issues with my txc, it likes to fire right up normally 2nd crank on the electric cold, but when It gets hot it doesn't like to start and this Is a very recent thing, I checked valves clearances and they are 0.06 for both intake and 0.07 for both exhaust, I can get a 0.08 feeler under the lobe its just a bit tight, I have read around that it can be the decompress lever and whatnot but I'm not entirely sure what is going on, sometimes it will start second kick hot others it will just crank until the battery dies, thank you very much for your time I will appreciated any feed back
 
Not sure what your spec is clearance wise but my 13 has intake at .15 and exhaust at .20.
 
im sorry, i forgot to include that specs are in inches, that is what it shows in my manual but that is the same thing
 
Well it wasnt valves because i checked those and they were in spec so we ordered a WPS featherweight battery and at first it didnt want to start even cold, so i honestly cant tell you what i did, i fiddled with some stuff on the fi, and disconnected the fuel line then reconnected and it fired right up and started hot right away several times just testing, taking it out this weekend to ride if, it contiunes to be an issue i will look more into things possibly wrong with the fi
 
Ordered a new temp sensor from halls, and when I put it on it still doesnt want to start, any other suggestions? Im getting ready to double check valves, also I dont think its the decompression because I can kick it fine, it doesnt become hard to kick
 
I'd also hesitate to do any thing w/valves in that case. I have a suspicion may be a matter of the map and fueling when hot. Maybe someone with your same year bike can chime in with their experience.
 
Update, new battery cranks over good and easy, kick starter will turn it over, now it will not start hot or cold, ran last weekend, took for ever to start then was backfiring and popping and bogging on sudden throttle, if you slowly moved throttle to position it would stutter and pop, next day it started and ran fine, now it will not start hot or cold, we just opened all electric connections and blew them with the air hose, any ideas?
 
At this exact moment the bike is not starting, do you have a spark on the plug? You're probably gonna have to go back to basic trouble shooting, stepping 1 step at a time. That EFI stuff can be a PIA in several different ways ...

My 010 TC250 (CARBed) Huskies need to be kicked over from TDC ... Not sure why but it is what it is ... Plus the kick is a solid push down all the way to the foot peg and no throttle twist. I can go out to my bike right now, start twisting the throttle and kicking and can get the bike into a state that it will not start until I walk away for ~15 minutes and let the engine go back to the happy-place it likes. I am fully aware of this and try not to get my bike into this state.

Also, are you using the hot-start button? If my bike is hot, I'll normally pull it and it will help.

--
As a side note...When I fixed my 010 TC250 Husky starting problem that was the auto-decompressor, the bike never built up compression making it hard to kick over. I was getting lots of major kickback so apparently the valve was staying open too long?... The TCs are CARBed so no EFI stuff to deal with.

Not sure if you have that worm-gear starter or not but its another bad event for many here....I'd be careful on grinding away on that device.
Good luck... These are really cool bikes....
 
update, i belieive it is a clogged injector, it rarely starts cold now, but starts hot 10 times out of 10 right away, on the other hand, it rarely starts cold or it will crank-fire then die right away, but if you take the filter off and give it a shot of starting fluid then put the filter back on it starts and once its warm, it starts and runs good all day, i believe its a clogged injector, what are the methods of cleaning it, or could some of you give a price idea on the 2012 12 port injector and ecu kit? Because if i just replace the injector as a whole that would solve it wouldnt it?
 
Race ECU and 12 port injector from Halls is $380. Big difference compared to stock.

Not sure if a clogged injector is your problem. Mine ran like crap cold and hot when it was clogged.
 
I never try to understand all the threads on your sort of issue but I think I did read there is a way to clean that injector also... It's got to be sent off to place and they can clean it ...

Out of curiosity, how many HRS are on that bike and are you the first owner? How long has the bike run correctly before you noticed this bad behavior?
--

Here's a couple points to consider ...

Not sure what a new injector means exactly, but IF you go the new injector route and its fixes the bike, you need to figure out what caused this episode and take steps to stop it from happening again in the future or buy a new injector yrly?

Lots of these posts come back to the ethanol in the gas clogging something in the fuel system ... To me, shade tree guy at best, you can get the bike running every-time so you are not gotta get stranded ... I'd be pouring injector cleaner in there each ride ... A different cleaner per tank till I saw a change for the better ...
 
I have the same bike and have been through the whole shooting match.

Valve clearance on the left exhaust valve is critical for E-start. .007 is a little tight compared to the .008 spec but is perfect for e-start.
40 in/lb only on the cam cap bolts if you change shims!

The start gears were upgraded and is the bike is a 2010 most likely yours have been changed.
Take the flywheel cover off and look for wear on the gears.
The starter is marginal too. I think it lasts about 200 starts or so and I usually kick my bike unless I stall it on the trail.
You can simply remove all the estart if it goes kaput and you don't want to spend $$ to fix it.

The early temp sensors are bad...get a white one.

Also my coil was bad. the insulation pulled back allowing water in and missing when it was wet.

Good luck!
 
we are second owner, but it was bought as a leftover brand new by a friend of ours which we bought off him last year in may, it ran great up until around new years time, where it started being tough to start hot, so at that point i checked valves, which were in spec, and ended up changing the temp sensor, while checking the valves i noticed the bent decompresion spring, and it kicks fine so i dont think that is the issue, we also got a wps lithium battery which cranks quick and doesnt bind up, so i dont think the starter is the issue, at this point it started hot good and cold, then one day it just didnt want to start cold, at one point i got it to fire with no starting fluid and it ran like crap, bogging and popping, so we shut it down, started with fluid the next day it ran great all day, the fuel pump has been replaced in the past, we also did pull the fuel pump and werent really sure what to do with it so we just put it back in, it now starts on fluid and runs great and starts hot great, thanks for all the help so far, hopefully this will be resolved soon
 
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