• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2011 TE310 won't rev when hot

Mulley

Mulley

Husqvarna
A Class
I've been chasing this problem for over a year. I really hope someone can't help me.

The bike runs great for a few minutes until it gets hot (warm really). It's at that point that it doesn't like to run. It won't rev out as if the spark is getting cut at an rpm like a rev limiter. At first it will cut at about 9000. Then the a minute later 8000 then 7000 and it keeps dropping until the bike eventually dies unless it's really cold outside and I baby it. All of this happens on the street or trail. Makes no difference. After this starts the bike will not restart until it cools off.

The bike only has 2000 miles. It's got TXC 310 ecu and injector, Husky/Akro titanium exhaust. Smog crap removed. I installed silicone coolant hoses and deleted the thermostat. I just replaced the temp sensor (again) yesterday. All ground wires and connections have been checked, cleaned, star washers installed, etc. New Shorai battery (stock battery did same thing). Oil and filter are fresh, coolant is fresh. I removed the water pump and verified it's not broken. New spark plug.

I have access to iBeat and haven't been able to tune it into shape.

Has anyone had a similar experience. What was the fix?

Thanks in advance.
 
I assume the Temp sensor is good and you've "I-beaten" it to death.

Maybe electrical

Start with the cheap stuff first.

Clean and grease all connections.
Clean and grease your grounds
spark plug
Coil
regulator/rectifier
Stator.
 
Try taking one of your old sensors and grounding it somewhere where it will not see any engine heat. Plug it in and see if it makes a difference. It will tell the motor it's cold. If you have access to a digital thermometer or a fancy laser pointer thermometer, check the real temp of the engine so you don't overheat. If it keeps on running then move forward from there. If it quits then you wasted a few minutes with my dumbass idea. :)
 
Wild guess. Your bike IS running hot and sensor is working and having ECU shut you down. What was the last thing you did mod wise prior to this occurring? Some say w/o the thermo fluid will move too fast and not effectively cool. Not that I believe it but playing devils advocate maybe put the stock hoses and thermo back on and see if it runs better. Maybe a pinched coolant hose somewhere? Only other things I can think of is checking/replacing the coil and checking/resetting the TPS.
 
Johnrg said:
Wild guess. Your bike IS running hot and sensor is working and having ECU shut you down. What was the last thing you did mod wise prior to this occurring? Some say w/o the thermo fluid will move too fast and not effectively cool. Not that I believe it but playing devils advocate maybe put the stock hoses and thermo back on and see if it runs better. Maybe a pinched coolant hose somewhere? Only other things I can think of is checking/replacing the coil and checking/resetting the TPS.
Click to expand...


Good ideas....maybe pull off the rad cap check to see if water is being pumped into the rads. I should gush pretty good.

Water pump impeller could be loose.

As mentioned...I-Beat will tell you the tempo the sensor is reading...or not reading as the case may be.
 
I can tell you that after installing silicone hoses with the thermostat removed and running XF coolant, my bike (2012 TE310)ran much cooler and it was hard to even get the fan to kick in on single track in mid summer. The bike seemed to love it and ran perfect. You seem to be having the opposite problem however. Is it possible the hoses are installed wrong? At this point it may be worth a shot to double check all the easy things first. Good luck:popcorn:

P.S. When was the last time the valves were checked? Also, 2000 miles on an xlite engine is getting dangerously close to tear down/rebuild time so there may be other forces at work here.
 
reveille said:
P.S. When was the last time the valves were checked?
Click to expand...

Good point, as the motor gets hotter, the valve clearance gets smaller and smaller, and if there is zero clearance, the bike will start to bleed off compression, resulting in crappy running and eventual dying off,...no compression, no run.
 
Another ZipTy XF user who is pleased with the (version 1) performance gains... Either my fan stopped working or the XF is working well, with no hot spots and better cooling performance. I have 3,000 miles though and engine may just do double that before I rebuild, with no signs of an issue. Many folks have posted stable valve clearances after first couple of checks.
 
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