• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2013 TE 310 Flame out

H

Helidave

Husqvarna
AA Class
6 Miles into 110 ride in Hancock NY bike dies like you held in the kill switch. Oddly the battery is now dead also. I checked fuses and wires trail side and did get it to fire back up but it would only run at high revs. I limped along and it died twice more but on the third try it started to clear up so i finished day 1. Day 2 all is good, Battery is fully charged and bike starts as normal. Just after gas stop I am going 50 Mph on short road section and it again dies. This time there is plenty of battery power but it will not restart not even with kick starter. I am home now all fuses are good but there is no spark from spark plug. I have a zip ty ECU that has been flawless since new. Stock battery. Any thoughts on where to start.
 
Short somewhere. Battery being discharged. Put a meter on the battery and test it also with bike running. Check the next day for variances. Pull the battery and charge it and test alone. Has the bike been down? Any wires pinched or chafed? If no spark check terminals to coil pack and possibly remove and replace connector to see if not making full contact. Also make sure nothing in the battery box is moving causing an intermittent short to the frame.
 
I tore the bike down but did not find a smoking gun. All components seem to test close to spec so I am going to replace the stick coil, it was a bit far away from spec and my mech friend said they are on the suspect list. The generator was charging and it was pulsing. Battery is still fully charged. It also is zip tied down so it cannot bounce. I found nothing chafed and all looked good. It has been down a couple of times but nothing epic I turned fifty this year.
 
After installing my Leo Vince slip-on, I started my bike in the garage with the seat off, and noticed (since it was a bit dark) that my positive cable was intermittently sparking to ground on the frame, next to it.

Just something you might want to check.
 
AndrewS said:
After installing my Leo Vince slip-on, I started my bike in the garage with the seat off, and noticed (since it was a bit dark) that my positive cable was intermittently sparking to ground on the frame, next to it.

Just something you might want to check.
Click to expand...

yeah, I wish the battery area had a convenient place to hook a strap (My '14 310 actually came with a strap in the accessories bag but I couldn't figure where it'd hook to). I'm not sure I like having the seat be the only battery hold-down.

I did put an insulator over the positive terminal when I first got the bike:

IMG_6025.JPG

Andrew- are you referring to the titanium Leo Vince pipe? didja get it mounted... how did it work out for you (I guess maybe I should ask this in the original thread)?

to the op- I would be looking closely in this area (above). That is- after I confirmed that the kill button was not an issue. The wiring to/from the power relay would be a prime suspect to inspect. The battery being dead is kinda curious though... was it totally flat (British term) or just couldn't turn the bike over? flat = big short somewhere. [edit] Also, look closely/inspect any red (or red/orange etc) wire... origninally, I had a brain-fart and said "blue". sheesh.

good luck
 
Shovelhead85 said:
yeah, I wish the battery area had a convenient place to hook a strap (My '14 310 actually came with a strap in the accessories bag but I couldn't figure where it'd hook to). I'm not sure I like having the seat be the only battery hold-down.
Click to expand...

Here's a pic of the rubber strap attached.

img_3070-jpg.25989
 
Boogie said:
Here's a pic of the rubber strap attached.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Boogie- yeah, I knew Oz had the battery hold-down requirement (along with chain guards, IIRC) but I didn't not realize that the strap was basically just around 1 corner of the battery (and not restraining it in the vertical axis). I'm not sure I see a huge benefit over the stock seat thing.

hey, aren't you worried about your positive cable rubbing on the subframe like that? It's kinda close to the area where there is only heat-shrinking tubing insulating it from the frame. A short could be a quick 200amps, then a melted subframe and fire. You might wanna clock that cable a bit- or is it more of a POV problem from the camera?
 
Shovelhead85 said:
Thanks, Boogie- yeah, I knew Oz had the battery hold-down requirement (along with chain guards, IIRC) but I didn't not realize that the strap was basically just around 1 corner of the battery (and not restraining it in the vertical axis). I'm not sure I see a huge benefit over the stock seat thing.

hey, aren't you worried about your positive cable rubbing on the subframe like that? It's kinda close to the area where there is only heat-shrinking tubing insulating it from the frame. A short could be a quick 200amps, then a melted subframe and fire. You might wanna clock that cable a bit- or is it more of a POV problem from the camera?
Click to expand...

All good, that's an old pic. I've got a lithium battery in there now and the cables are routed better.
 
Culprit. The Wires from stator rolled around the clutch line where they live just enough to get to the exaust and short out. That explains why it was intermittent and the parts would test good. I now have a spare stick coil.
 
Hi, Can you please post a pic of the issue. I have a similar issue and ended up testing the coil at a Husky dealer. (the Coil is still working)
I ended up doing the same test on my bike and i had spark. I was thinking there could be an issue with valve clearance which could cause my flame out, tested the with feeler gauges ended up with a slightly loose exhause intake (tried a 0.25mm gauge).
 
Helidave said:
Culprit. The Wires from stator rolled around the clutch line where they live just enough to get to the exaust and short out. That explains why it was intermittent and the parts would test good. I now have a spare stick coil.
Click to expand...

Helidave- you didn't happen to take a picture didja? that might help others in the future. [edit: oops... I dint read the same request in the post above this one]

I have the wires (and clutch hose) in this area covered with a short piece of heat-reflecting tape. But I guess this wouldn't help you if you had direct contact with the header. Props to Johnrg for calling it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top