• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2013 te 449 with oil in radiator

S

Siberian449

Husqvarna
C Class
Back from my first real ride after installing jumper for race 2 mode and removing the butterfly. I noticed the bike overheating a lot on almost nothing and when I got back I looked into the radiator to check water level and now have oil in it. I assume that means blown a head gasket> Oil in the radiator. When hot hard to start and wont idol. I thought the bike was flaming out but i actually think it was overheating and trying to shut off. I don’t think it should have over heated was in the mid 70s. Any info on a replacement head gasket kit? Oh no water in the crank area. The bike is 2013 TE 449 and now has 411 miles on it. Dealer is saying around 600 dollars to replace head gasket.
 
$600? really... fairly easy diy project.. $30 head gasket.... weekend of pulling off the top end.. and checking things.. ok.. if you are slow. two weekend job if you have to order parts... Much less expensive than dealer..
 
Would that cause my over heating issues also? should I just order the high output water pump? What would I be looking for with the seals? And thank you all for your input!!
 
There is no high output water pump for bmw built bikes as far as I know. Overheating could be a seperate issue. I would verify with IR thermometer on the output (cold side) of the radiators. Atleast check the temp. Mine feels like it overheats alot but honestly the fan comes on at a very high temp and keeps it cool no matter how much it idles and its 99% me being worrysome.
 
What I noticed that it would start stalling and wouldnt idle. Any time I left off on the throttle it would just shut down. Fan was on. This was happeing about 15 to 20 mins into the ride thats what made me check water level in the radiator.
 
Siberian449 said:
Back from my first real ride after installing jumper for race 2 mode and removing the butterfly. I noticed the bike overheating a lot on almost nothing and when I got back I looked into the radiator to check water level and now have oil in it. I assume that means blown a head gasket> Oil in the radiator. When hot hard to start and wont idol. I thought the bike was flaming out but i actually think it was overheating and trying to shut off. I don’t think it should have over heated was in the mid 70s. Any info on a replacement head gasket kit? Oh no water in the crank area. The bike is 2013 TE 449 and now has 411 miles on it. Dealer is saying around 600 dollars to replace head gasket.
Click to expand...
Hmm. Could be head gasket or water pump seals.
As far as the bike running hot, they run hot normally, especially if you still have your catalytic converter big pipe silencer. Removing the secondary butterfly with only map#2 will yield very poor results, possibly making your engine run even hotter. At minimum, I would consider sending me your ecu for a map3 upgrade and adjusting your idle air bypass screw. After you get your seals situated, I also have a waterless coolant that will help keep your engine cooler and with far less internal system pressure, usually only a couple of psi. You can find my ecu and coolant links on my accessory map page here.

TE511 Air Bypass EFI Adjustment
- This is the big brass screw high up on the side of the EFI body
- 2 ¼ turns out for a TE511 (+/- 1/8th of a turn) should put the minimum air bypass back in range.
- It is the only screw on the throttle body that should, or can, be touched without major drama.
- If the screw is too far out it will push you into a corner like having the throttle open a bit.
 
Tinken said:
Hmm. Could be head gasket or water pump seals.
As far as the bike running hot, they run hot normally, especially if you still have your catalytic converter big pipe silencer. Removing the secondary butterfly with only map#2 will yield very poor results, possibly making your engine run even hotter. At minimum, I would consider sending me your ecu for a map3 upgrade and adjusting your idle air bypass screw. After you get your seals situated, I also have a waterless coolant that will help keep your engine cooler and with far less internal system pressure, usually only a couple of psi. You can find my ecu and coolant links on my accessory map page here.

TE511 Air Bypass EFI Adjustment
- This is the big brass screw high up on the side of the EFI body
- 2 ¼ turns out for a TE511 (+/- 1/8th of a turn) should put the minimum air bypass back in range.
- It is the only screw on the throttle body that should, or can, be touched without major drama.
- If the screw is too far out it will push you into a corner like having the throttle open a bit.
Click to expand...



What is the turnaround time on the computer and is the air bypass efi adjustment the same for a 449 or is it something you play with?

I do still have the original pipe (which is the big one) I still have the metal installed in the header pipe where it connects to the exhaust pipe.
 
Is it the factory coolant? I would change it out and try again.

My TE449 came with coolant in it that looked like burnt lemonade. It had an oily sheen to it.I thought there was something wrong. Also it overheated on me like crazy.Dump the coolant out of it. I rinsed my rad out with a garden hose. Fill it up with fresh coolant and try again. Also I took the smog canister thing off at the same time. One of these things fixed the problem.
 
Thank you will try that first. I already have the zipty fluid so will install that after i make sure nothing is really wrong..
 
The bad news I flushed the coolant the other day while the bike was running. I kept seeing bubbles coming out of the radiator. If I increased the RPM then more bubbles. I have read that this is diffently a blown head gasket. Tinken do you sell these for the 2013 TE449?
 
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