2013 TE310R update

[beck]

Quick update for those who have this bike or are interested in picking one up. Send the ECU out to ZipTy to have it updated, the difference is night and day.

Prior to updating the ECU the bike would have issues all over the place, with or without all the intake and exhaust mods, the bike just did not run correct. Now those issues have been resolved, and the bike "feels" proper.

No longer does the bike stall under deceleration, there is no flat spot mid range, power is instant and consistent, IE: turn throttle = go faster.

Much thanks to the guys at ZipTy! You will receive continued business from me.

 

[Motosportz]

Man all the 13's I rode at the demo day this fall all ran great stock. Thought the new EFI was much better and the bikes ran smooth and hard.

 

[joedirt]

Man all the 13's I rode at the demo day this fall all ran great stock. Thought the new EFI was much better and the bikes ran smooth and hard.

thats because your dealer knows how to set them up properly.

 

[dfriz]

mine rips just went for a quick spin 85 miles 40 miles of black top and 45 miles of dirt what a blast

 

[FreddyTE310R]

mine rips just went for a quick spin 85 miles 40 miles of black top and 45 miles of dirt what a blast

hey man, I'm about to sign my life away for the next 3 yrs. on this same model: any suggestions, to have anything done to it, before I have it delivered ? Or is it just right, just the way it is ? My dealer already offered (without me even asking) to "uncork it" (meaning, taking off the emissions box, dB killer in the pipe) - also, what tire pressure do you run, if you're riding about say, 50% street, 50% dirt trails?

 

[bigmo]

also, what tire pressure do you run, if you're riding about say, 50% street, 50% dirt trails?

Try 16 front and rear. That is a) high enough for the road and b) low enough for the trails. That being said, neither is ideal. I prefer 12/12 and just take it easy on the road or keep my pavement time to the bare minimum.

 

[dfriz]

I run 20 20 seems to work for me

 

[JRW]

I want this bike so bad... I hope I can find one when I can finally buy one.

 

[FreddyTE310R]

the lead mechanic at a dealership told me, (based on riding 90% street, and 10% dirt, approximately) "run it at 30 PSI rear, and about 26-27 PSI in the front: I now have (only 3 months later) about 1,800 miles on it, and the rear tire's center knobbies are about 1/2 the height they used to be....I think with the next replacement tire, for the rear, I will set the pressure at 25, and see if I get less wear / more miles, at the center tread.....

 

[Motosportz]

WAY to much air. 12 in front for mud / off road to about 18 front if hauling ass across dez. 10-16 rear.

 

[FreddyTE310R]

how 'bout the rear ? that low, REALLY ? if 90% street ? (I gotta ride about 50 miles, to get to the "state'premitted" forests...then, it's about 10 miles worth of trail, one BIG circle, one path: that's the Chicago area, unfortunately. )

 

[Kenneth Webb]

Freddy, great to hear how your bike is holding up. I will be using mine about the same way, when I get it back with bullet-proofing mods from Zip Ty. What gearing are you using?

 

[FreddyTE310R]

whatever the bike came with: I haven't changed a thing, except for the "Tuff Lites" in the rear only: the front seem to be flexible enough, to not ever break from external flexion. Oh yeah, and I put in a PIAA "anti-vibration" plasma bulb, headlight. Just because.

 

[FreddyTE310R]

also, I will now switch to a Michelin "T63" model rear, instead of the OEM (which supposedly is a 50/50, street/dirt tire) and the T63 is supposed to be more street than dirt, so it SHOULD last longer. I will also "split the difference" with the tire pressure, and see how much longer it will really last. To get only 1600 miles, and have as much center tread gone already, just seems REALLY unusual to me. 30 years ago, I NEVER monitored tire pressure, and ran 20 PSI, and NEVER had a problem, never even replaced the tires for like 10,000 miles**************************************** and I was riding street ILLEGALLY was only 15 yrs old !) it took getting a FLAT in the rear, before I replaced both the tire AND it's inner tube ! So now I think I will run BOTH at 24, cold (I know it will warm up by 1 or 2 PSI) and will probably see much less center tread wear, at the same mileage.

 

[FreddyTE310R]

OK: here's the latest: after 7,500 miles in just 2 seasons, only changed a rear sprocket, 2 teeth less, for better (lower) RPMs when having to hit those 50-55 MPH zones: still have enough "grunt" for low speed maneuvers. Put on the EDS flexible turn signals in the rear, emgo barkbusters up front, zip-ty fender eliminator / license bracket. Ran perfect UNTIL about 6800 miles: a thermistor went out (permanently opened) causing the fans to stop working: this will effect the "FI" sensor, AND the clutch fluid will overheat, to the point where you will remain permanently engaged in gear, until you shut it down, and allow it to cool off for at least 10 minutes: took it to the Husky shop, they fixed it, and it's back on the road now. Only real problem I've had so far: no other issues, just normal wear & tear (on my 3rd set of tires, brake pads still OK !) going out tomorrow for a roll in the woods. this bike is STILL al lot of fun, and am always looking forward to the next ride.

 

[Johnrg]

So was this thermister part of the inline/hose fluid temp sesnor? I have not heard my fan run since replacing fluid w/ZT coolant and hoses but have had to flush my clutch recently due to cooked fluid (since bled) and no clutch when hot (on an extended steep ascent above 13k fanning clutch). I've not bothered to test it yet but might be the issue. Just assumed was the new fluid doing a better job.

 

[Tinken]

Our coolant does make a huge difference cooling. I'm interested in seeing what you find.

 

[Johnrg]

I really question any relation to clutch fluid overheating. That, IMO, has more to do with age and service life, as well as the fact that very little fluid exists within the engine. The slave cylinder is the only thing that can pass heat as well as the hose itself being so close to the header. So, as far as clutch fluid, to me it comes down to service life (3+ years) and proximity to the header, especially at slow speeds or stopped with heavy use of the clutch. So, I discount the cause of my clutch fluid issue and still feel the lack of fan is due to better ZT coolant. One day maybe I will further test the inline sensor but all running well.