I bought a 2014 te310r and feels very light/unstable/washy on road at speeds of 40mph and up. Kinda feel the same way on semi loose sand too. The front end is all over the place.. Is there anything I can do to fix? Anyone have this problem? Tire pressure is good and tires are new..I don't know what to do! Thanks****************************************
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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
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Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
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Thanks for your patience and support!
2014 te310r washy very unstable on road..help!!!
- Thread starter johnjack
- Start date
SoCalHuskyRider
Husqvarna
AA Class
You should start by checking the suspension settings on your bike against the recommended settings for the "TE" 310R in your manual. I found that my settings were way off as delivered by the dealer. I had to reset rebound & compression on the forks (each fork leg was setup different) and the rear shock, including sag. It made a huge difference on how my bike handled and performed. Good luck!
Another thing that will make the bike "hunt" on pavement and in sand is when the steering stem bearings are too tight. When I bought my TE450 brand new, it was hard to control in loose sand, and sort of wandered from side to side on the black top. I tossed it up on a stand and checked the steering stem. It was very tight. I loosened it, until the front would glide easily to the stop when pushed off the center position. After that, there was no hint of the problem left.
rabskyline
Husqvarna
AA Class
Mine is planted on road at 100kph and more,not fun but still stable.
I'd check sag, after a 65klm ride of whoops and dirt, iti had settled a good 15mm and was tail down.
I run my triples through to 2nd line, turns well on any surface.
Check tyre pressures, mine are 8R/10F but I am 65kg (about 150lbs) .
Check clicker settings, blokes who set up mine raced them and it was pretty damn close, I backed off rebound 2 clicks I think, nothing much.
My clicker settings are on a thread here, bike goes like a stabbed rat !
I don't feel the need for a damper on these bikes, very planted and no head shake.
I'd run one for deep sand but otherwise, no.
For sand, firm up the suspenders a bit, will stop it knifing into sand .
I'd check sag, after a 65klm ride of whoops and dirt, iti had settled a good 15mm and was tail down.
I run my triples through to 2nd line, turns well on any surface.
Check tyre pressures, mine are 8R/10F but I am 65kg (about 150lbs) .
Check clicker settings, blokes who set up mine raced them and it was pretty damn close, I backed off rebound 2 clicks I think, nothing much.
My clicker settings are on a thread here, bike goes like a stabbed rat !
I don't feel the need for a damper on these bikes, very planted and no head shake.
I'd run one for deep sand but otherwise, no.
For sand, firm up the suspenders a bit, will stop it knifing into sand .
rabskyline
Husqvarna
AA Class
Suspension setting up, how I basically do it.(exact same bike as yours albeit a 250)
(Copy from my other post in sag related topic)
Put bike on lift so that rear is off the deck.
Measure from axle nut to a market point on rear of side panel vertically above axle nut.
Mark a point with a black pen.
Measure form axle nut to that mark(total travel, take that size ie, 600mm.)
Take bike off stand and push rear down and let it settle back (take that measurement, ie 570mm(static sag)
Sit on bike with normal riding gear that you'd wear and get someone to measure from axle nut to that first black mark ie, 500(rider/race sag)
So that's 600 with 30 static sag and overall 100mm of sag(ideal for most bikes but get specific for yours) ..
You want to aim for correct rider/race sag and if it's correct but static is 50mm, spring is too hard and if it's 20mm it's too soft and you need harder.
Race tech has a good site for it but not sure if they have a thing for husky settings.
Best money spent on a bike (IMHO) is getting it done properly/professionally .
You'll go faster easier. The bike will feel better and easier to ride.
DISCLAIMER, THIS IS INFO IVE PICKED UP FROM TUNERS AND TINKERING, I AM NOT A PRO.
airrider
Husqvarna
AA Class
Just exactly what tire pressures are you running?
Johnrg
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Only thing I've done is drop the stock front tire pressure when new from 22 psi. to 15-16 psi. Also am using some RideOn Sealant which is supposed to balance them too. Not sure but rides fine up to 65, albeit sensitive to input. Knobbies, floppy fender, high riding position all contribute to instability.
reveille
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I'm with airrider. What is your version of "tire pressure is good" Anything over say 18 psi with knobbies will be squirrely on pavement. Also, what tires do you have mounted and if you don't mind me asking, what is your weight? You should be able to get this sorted easily and we may be able to help you through it if we have a bit more detail. Good luck
rabskyline
Husqvarna
AA Class
Agree hard knobbies are like ice skates, no value on road at all.
On my 310R the tires being out of balance were the biggest contributing factor to its instability on the road at speeds above 40 MPH.
If you don't have one already I'd considering investing $70 or so in a wheel balancing stand and buying a couple boxes of Motion Pro's 1/4 oz. adhesive-backed rim weights. The stand will also allow you check and true the lateral and radial runout of your wheels (both of which will result in squirrelly on road handling too).
My wheels were within runout tolerances but severely out of balance. I believe my rear wheel required 5 ounces (20 individual 1/4 oz. weights!) and the front took just under 4 ounces.
Of course "aerodynamic efficiency" was clearly not a high design priority for whoever came up with the front fender and it will always introduce a bit shake once it starts flapping around (about 45 MPH on my bike). But with the wheels trued and properly balanced its a minor annoyance rather than a major safety issue.
While I endeavor to avoid interstates and highways at all costs when I do have to get on one for a short spurt the experience is no longer terrifying. 75 MPH is doable but the sweet spot's around 60 MPH. Before balancing the wheels it became increasing difficult just to hold onto to the bars at speeds above 50. Even the smoothest roads would feel like I were riding in a 10" rut. Scary with an 18-wheeler growing larger in your rear view...
I ride between 10-12 PSI off road but have achieved better results bumping it up to 14-15 PSI for riding on the Tarmac. On my bike at least it tracks straighter (less prone to wondering) and the tires run much cooler. I weigh 175 lbs without gear.
Lastly, positioning your body further forward on the seat will put more weight on the front wheel and help calm the front end too. Good luck.
If you don't have one already I'd considering investing $70 or so in a wheel balancing stand and buying a couple boxes of Motion Pro's 1/4 oz. adhesive-backed rim weights. The stand will also allow you check and true the lateral and radial runout of your wheels (both of which will result in squirrelly on road handling too).
My wheels were within runout tolerances but severely out of balance. I believe my rear wheel required 5 ounces (20 individual 1/4 oz. weights!) and the front took just under 4 ounces.
Of course "aerodynamic efficiency" was clearly not a high design priority for whoever came up with the front fender and it will always introduce a bit shake once it starts flapping around (about 45 MPH on my bike). But with the wheels trued and properly balanced its a minor annoyance rather than a major safety issue.
While I endeavor to avoid interstates and highways at all costs when I do have to get on one for a short spurt the experience is no longer terrifying. 75 MPH is doable but the sweet spot's around 60 MPH. Before balancing the wheels it became increasing difficult just to hold onto to the bars at speeds above 50. Even the smoothest roads would feel like I were riding in a 10" rut. Scary with an 18-wheeler growing larger in your rear view...
I ride between 10-12 PSI off road but have achieved better results bumping it up to 14-15 PSI for riding on the Tarmac. On my bike at least it tracks straighter (less prone to wondering) and the tires run much cooler. I weigh 175 lbs without gear.
Lastly, positioning your body further forward on the seat will put more weight on the front wheel and help calm the front end too. Good luck.
mnb
Husqvarna
Pro Class
My 310 is fine on pavement without lowering the forks or using a steering damper.
Balance the tires if you're going to use it on the street much. Low pressure is good in dirt, bad on pavement. Are you running the stock tires or did you go full on knobby (which will suck on pavement)?
Balance the tires if you're going to use it on the street much. Low pressure is good in dirt, bad on pavement. Are you running the stock tires or did you go full on knobby (which will suck on pavement)?