2014 TE310R?

[CharwieLin]

Hi, all
I'm a new guy from Taiwan.
I am planning to buy a 2014 TE310R,probably in Oct.
but, the information about this bike is too short in my country.(and Internet,too...)
Luckily,Thanks to Internet, I found this perfect site...and successfully signed in become a member of this site.
so...here are the questions, hope you could help me out...

1.I used to have a YAMAHA WR250F, compare to WR, which one is more powerful?

2. As I know, the Husky had been bought by KTM in 2013, and since then, they all had changed to the "NEW" yellow,white and blue husqvarna, instead of the original" red and white" Husqvarna.
so...what company exactly made the 2014 te310r? KTM? or Husky itself?(because the 2014 model still the original red and white)

3.I used to ride my WR250f for a long ride...(150KM per day) and it ran well.
how's the TE? Can it do a long ride(150KM per day) travel? and how's the 2014's reliability?

4. I had seen the TE's specs, it has a real high compression ratio.(13.1:1,compare other class bike, it's really high...) so how to maintain this bike if I buy it? I mean , is there has any details I need to note?

that's all, looking forward to your replies...

 

[Shovelhead85]

If the 310 is configured as it was meant to be (here in California, USA- the bike is very low power from the factory) it should have noticeably more power than the wr. Make sure you can get the ECU reprogrammed somewhere if not. The airbox needs some very easy alterations- search for the thread here

KTM owned the Italian factory at the time of manufacture, but it was the same people- who made the BMW-era bikes, that assembled it. They make newer models in Austria. Overall, the quality is very good- with a couple of minor exceptions (ie, over or under-torqued fasteners).

150Km should be no problem- with varied speed (hopefully you'll find some dirt). This bike is high-strung- but is fairly reliable; however IMO the wr is more reliable. The fuel injection system on the 310 is slightly suspect; the starter problems on earlier 310s were supposedly fixed in late 2013. my 14 has had no problems in 2200 miles (3500km) of hard single track riding. I would definitely buy it again.

WRs are not street legal here, but if they are in Taiwan and if you are talking dual sport I might think about the Yamaha. Especially if after-the-sale-support is a factor. OTOH, the 310 is a rocket ship, handles great, stops better... what more could you ask for?

if my english is too idiomatic, LMK and I'll rephrase things.

good luck.

 

[CharwieLin]

If the 310 is configured as it was meant to be (here in California, USA- the bike is very low power from the factory) it should have noticeably more power than the wr. Make sure you can get the ECU reprogrammed somewhere if not. The airbox needs some very easy alterations- search for the thread here

KTM owned the Italian factory at the time of manufacture, but it was the same people- who made the BMW-era bikes, that assembled it. They make newer models in Austria. Overall, the quality is very good- with a couple of minor exceptions (ie, over or under-torqued fasteners).

160Km should be no problem- with varied speed (hopefully you'll find some dirt). This bike is high-strung- but is fairly reliable; however IMO the wr is more reliable. The fuel injection system on the 310 is slightly suspect; the starter problems on earlier 310s were supposedly fixed in late 2013. my 14 has had no problems in 2200 miles (3500km) of hard single track riding.I would definitely buy it again.

WRs are not street legal here, but if they are in Taiwan and if you are talking dual sport I might think about the Yamaha. Especially if after-the-sale-support is a factor. OTOH, the 310 is a rocket ship, handles great, stops better... what more could you ask for?

if my english is too idiomatic, LMK and I'll rephrase things.

good luck.

#Shovelhead85
MUCH APPRECIATIONS!!
I can easily understand what you mean!!
In fact, in my country, the WR250f is not a legal bike, either. so that's why I want to get a legal bike.
Both YAMAHA and Husky don't have after-the-sale-support in my country. so...no matter what, the repairing stuff only counting on my own.
Anyway,with your helpful information, I can surely purchase this bike with no doubt...
At least, I know this site can give me a really big hand when I need it...
thanks again,mate!

 

[Shovelhead85]

Cool. But one last thing: you are going to hate the transmission gear rations. They are not spread out very well- actually, they are tighter than a lot of 125s.

Also, let me backtrack a bit: 150Km is at the extreme end of the range of a stock bike. There is no reserve also. But there should be no other problems as far as doing that distance.

Overall, it's a great bike.

 

[Boogie]

What type of riding do you do for 150km?

Sustained high RPM like riding on the highway for long distances won't be good for the 310 engine.

 

[Shovelhead85]

Hey CharwieLin-
I stumbled across some notes about my TE310R I had taken, detailing my good and bad experiences with the bike, over the last 10 months. I'll paste them here.
===========================================

Husqvarna Husky TE310 TE 310R Observations
my 2014 TE 310R observations-

the bad stuff:

chain slider screw hole stripped from the factory- replaced with bigger self-tapping screw.

fuel pump screw hits the radiator hose- put in smaller screw, raised tank with 1/2" washers (used four 1/8" thick, with 2 upfront)(some bikes had been fixed at the factory. why not my 2014?)

left radiator shroud screw stripped from factory- chased female threads, new screw

left side number plate screw- one is shorter than is spec'd (and shorter than the rest) from the factory

a few wires have different colors than wiring diagram (which wires was it? Green vs gray IIRC)

safety mandated retractable kickstand (on bikes w/o a kickstand safety switch) is a pain; I cut the stud, no surprise there.

oil liquid return bolt stripped during 1st removal effort using a boxend wrench- finally got it out (60ft/lbs +) with heat/cold and a punch. This thing is very, very soft steel (I thought it was a soft aluminum at first).

wires rub and wear a lot. A LOT. wiring looms are stiff & short. And the factory workers leave a lot of short & sharp zip tys (a pet-peeve of mine, I melt them a hair to round'em)

front left side of tank rubbing on radiator hose clamp- moved clamp. caught it just in time. (to reiterate: the tank was being rubbed by the free end of a hose clamp)

speedo display: engine hours does not work (this dashboard/computer has had this problem since 2010?). Ergo's suck, too.

speedo display only works when engine running; not when bike is rolling- engine-off, so no odometer mileage when you're rolling.

black clutch perch, silver brake perch? eh, whatever- I guess

black rims aren't Excels- which may be a good thing. Possibly Giant, Saxes or Dirt Star (D.I.D.)
gsxrbee says:
I've got the answer. The manufacturer of the '14 model líne black rims is the German GOLDSPEED.
Them do not have the quality and finish of takasago Excel but them are not bad.

catalytic converter was broken inside the stock muffler

Well, it's official: I hate hydraulic actuated clutches. totally suck. Fine, they're smooth and easy; but every other aspect is sucky: weight, FEEL (as in feedback- it has none at all), complexity, cost, reliability, modifiability, fixability, adjustablity. caveat- I'm super-finicky about clutch feel.

semi-rigid fuel line quick-disconnect broke at the tank outlet. Replaced with a good EPDM FI hose & 2 quick-disconnects ($8 total). (rigid teflon tubing was to reduce fuel vapor emissions via out-gassing through the line. sheesh- talk about a non-problem). I think the plastic spiral fuel hose protector was causing the plastic outlet to break- it caused my quick-disconnect to break at my aluminum outlet.

internal rust in the frame (very fine rust); no factory corrosion treatment. squirted wd-40 into psi-relief holes used during welding

I'm the only person in the world who has always preferred 7/8" bars (w/ a cross bar) over the pro-taper style, although these bars are nice. I still need to cut'em to 30". I'd like to try carbon fiber bars someday.

horn/lights/turn signal switch has semi-bad ergo's; I'll live with it (until I find a switch set that allows me to turn off the lights)

Stock headlight sucks for street use- not unexpected for a 35W H4 but still. (Tail/Brake light is fantastic; LED).

The tranny totally sucks. It shifts ok (neutral is a little hard) but the ratios are way, way, W-A-A-A-A-Y too close. If someone ever makes a set of overdrive 6th gears, I'm in (or 5th even- I'd sacrifice a gear to spread 'em out a bit)

low-fuel light is next to useless: it comes when there is more than half a tank of gas left (basically, it's always on) (later: mine is broke now- always on now, no matter what.)

fuel tank capacity: 2.11 gallons, not 2.25 (I get an extra 1.6 miles if I leave the petcocks off until I run out. whoopie.)

Skid plate cracked (a couple of different places over time). I like plastic skid plates, but this stock one needs to be twice as thick. OTOH, it's only $11! I've got an aluminum EE skid plate waiting to be installed... as soon as I reconfigure the oil vapor/liquid return system.

fan broke on it's own (not from impact... but later I bent the right radiator a little). Turns out I don't need it that much.

lost a bolt from right shroud. shit, checked it in the past.

I had up to 43-44 before ecu reprogramming. Actually, it looks like I'm getting 40-42 mpg now. If I milk it... I'm guessing 48-55 mpg.

After 1500 miles of hard single track, I've decided I'm no fan of fuel injection on dirt bikes. Carbs are just as effective and much simpler. I understand the reasons manufacturers are just about required to use it, but...

=======================================================
workshop manual errors

electrical schematic- various errors (color, missing water temp switch etc)

torque- oil drain plug is 25NM which is not 33ft/lbs also don't show socket-head drain plug pg 46, D16

2 different chain tensions spec'd (30mm slack, 35mm slack)


=======================================================
the good stuff:

this thing is a rocket ship (once uncorked & ECU is reprogrammed, that is)

handles great.

stops on a dime- with change to spare.

fit & finish are fantastic

very, very light feeling- feels much lighter than 249lbs (actuall is probably 260 wet)

new aluminum fuel outlet is cool

I always thought the Italian huskys ('specially the 449/511s) were beautiful- even 7 years later they look great. (310 front end: ehhh; fantastic ass tho)


=======================================================
the neutral stuff:

the oil liquid return from the crankcase ventilation (from the valve cover where it should be) is okay. It's not as exposed as some people claim. I don't like using the frame as an tank/condenser because of the rust thing though. and it is a bit too complex. I might make a little 2" copper condenser someday.

I might make a small radiator overflow tank too. maybe (aka surge tank, expansion tank, recovery tank). Installed a 1.8bar radiator cap & seem to have less boil-over (lost! my stock 1.4bar cap... my bad.) I actually think that this cap keeps the system under too much pressure, but the bike seems to like it. later: no coolant loss at all. wow.

The factory knobbies are reasonably good (Michelin Enduro Competition III). They are lasting longer than I usually get from knobbies (normally 700-900 miles, currently 1300 miles and it looks "ok". sorta)

I put a metal whistle in my coolant overflow line- it actually whistles when vapor is coming out (an audio warning for me)

=======================================================
the mods

ecu programmed, new filter cage, air horn moded
catalytic converter and vapor recovery removed
gearing & chain (12z, 51z, 112 links)
turn sigs removed
LED micro-turn signals installed.
1 mirror removed
Pop-riveted extensions on the brush guards
insulator caps on battery connection
aux power cord added
headlight/taillight/speedo switch added
installed 12mm rim lock (vs. 13mm)
unplugged city-light (aka parking) bulb from headlight bucket
lic plate holder replaced
bolt (on fuel pump plate) rubbed- replaced with smaller one
added 4- 3mm thick washers to the gas tank mounts.
inserted piece of rubber tube between brake line fitting & bar
heat-reflective tape added to tank, hoses, clutch line
added some clear vinyl fuel line to protect the clutch hose
fuel line moded/replaced (broke)
oil drain barb replaced (stripped)
radiator cap upgraded to a 1.8bar cap
Golden Tyre Fatty in front; Mountain Hybrid rear
Leo Vince Titanium pipe: almost 3lbs lighter (4.7 vs 7.3lbs)
whistle in radiator overflow line