• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2100 mile checkup - '11-TE310

D

DougW

Husqvarna
AA Class
So today I checked the valves and plug. The bike now has 57 hours on it and 2100 miles. The valve gaps were as they say "spot on". This was a relieve since re gaping them isn't hard but easy to strip out head bolts as I found out on my last bike. The spark plug was a nice medium brown color. Getting the plug out on this bike was not going to happen like it was on my '10 TE250. The plug sockets I have will just not fit inside the gasket surrounding the plug cover area. I've tried thin walled ones with no success either. So I had to remove the valve cover then remove the plug.

Not long ago my starter actually came apart. one of the nuts inside backed off. It wasn't a pain to fix but since then it seems the bike developed a small oil leak around it. So I ordered a new gasket and installed it today as well. One can hope that fixes that leak. I should have changed it when I pulled the starter last time. So far that is about the only issue I've really had with the bike.
Here are some pics with and without a feeler gauge checking the valves just in case it might help some one later.

P1020388.JPG


P1020389.JPG

Exhaust side = 0.008"
P1020390.JPG

Intake side = 0.006"
 
DougW said:
Getting the plug out on this bike was not going to happen like it was on my '10 TE250. The plug sockets I have will just not fit inside the gasket surrounding the plug cover area. I've tried thin walled ones with no success either. So I had to remove the valve cover then remove the plug.


Intake side = 0.006"
Click to expand...

Great pics Doug, on a couple of bikes I've had, the only tool that would work for the spark plug was a Japanese OEM toolkit spark plug wrench (just the socket part, not the screwdrivers).
oldtoolkit.jpg
 
Good idea to mark the upper oil feed banjo bolt to the head.

Even better if you turn it full counterclockwise before you tighten it down.

A boot kick in the woods WILL loosen that banjo enough to pump all 1qt of oil out of the motor in about 30 secs.

If it is full counterclockwise already it cannot back out.
 
Is there a gasket that needs to be replaced on the head when you take the cover off? If so what's the part number?
 
No gasket required so long as you don't cut removing the head. Mine needed a couple light taps with a rubber mallet. Then pulled out to the right side. Had to remove a breather hose. I also had to buy 2ea 1/2" hose clamps to replace those clamp down stock ones on one of the tank fuel hoses and that breather hose. I probably could have made it a bit easier by removing the breather hose at the head cover.

It's pretty simple and straight forward, no worries.

Doug
 
Exactly the same situation with mine last week. "Spot on" at 66 hrs. and had to replace one of the hose clamps. I've got one of those sparkplug wrenches like the one in OHR's pic and it's a bit of a tight squeeze but works. I had to put a tab of duct tape on the inside of the hex get enough bite on the plug to pull it out once loose.
 
DougW, Do you mind if I ask What the other 2 valve clearences are? (both .006 and .008??) I am just curious about 310 valve clearences. And I have found that the oem spark plug socket I saved from my old 2003 KLX400R (same as DRZ400E) fits perfect.
2011 TE310 at 32.3 hours.
 
Both exhaust were .008" and both intakes were .006". The feeler gages slide in with a light resistance.

I'm still finding a small oil leak on the left side of the engine. It is looking like its oozing out of the mag cover where the wires come out of the cover. So next week I'll pll the cover and see what's going on. Nothing major, I only get a few drops leaking out of it.

Doug
 
I'm still finding a small oil leak on the left side of the engine. It is looking like its oozing out of the mag cover where the wires come out of the cover. So next week I'll pll the cover and see what's going on. Nothing major, I only get a few drops leaking out of it.
Click to expand...

Mine's doing the same. Waiting for next oil change to check this and woodruff key. It's really hard to tell where it's coming from, but I bought some hi temp RTV silicone today, 'cause like you said, it's likely the stator cable stopper.

Thanks, Doug, keep us posted!
 
Roger, I should have asked if you needed anything from halls. I just ordered a side cover gasket. I do have an extre starter gasket now if you ever find you need one. I'm almost sure now that it's leaking around the stator wires.
 
My 11 250 also weeped a little oil around the mag cover where the wires go through. I removed the cover, cleaned the gasket and rubber grommet, used a thin layer of black high temp RTV silicone around the grommet and a supper thin layer of permatex gasket maker on the mag gasket and "presto" no leak with 2 enduro motos on it.
 
DougW said:
Both exhaust were .008" and both intakes were .006". The feeler gages slide in with a light resistance.

I'm still finding a small oil leak on the left side of the engine. It is looking like its oozing out of the mag cover where the wires come out of the cover. So next week I'll pll the cover and see what's going on. Nothing major, I only get a few drops leaking out of it.

Doug
Click to expand...
Yep had the same on mine, I put a dab of silicone around the rubber seal when i had the mag cover off and it hasn't leaked again.
Spoke to the dealer about it and they said it is fairly common.
 
My stator cover just started to leak at 300 miles in same place. At the dealer now for it and check on instrument cluster issue.
 
On my clutch case the bolts actually backed as started weeping oil. Thankfully I caught it when one of the bolts impeded the kick started from returning. It appears someone forgot to torque just about ever bolt on this bike.
 
DougW said:
No gasket required so long as you don't cut removing the head. Mine needed a couple light taps with a rubber mallet. Then pulled out to the right side. Had to remove a breather hose. I also had to buy 2ea 1/2" hose clamps to replace those clamp down stock ones on one of the tank fuel hoses and that breather hose. I probably could have made it a bit easier by removing the breather hose at the head cover.

It's pretty simple and straight forward, no worries.

Doug
Click to expand...


Hey Doug, how did you remove the breather hose? I need to remove it and I can't!
 
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