• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

40 Husky Tech Tips or How to make your 430 jump through a hoop!

Norman Foley

Husqvarna
Pro Class
I have a 1987 copy of Trail Rider Mag with this article. I thought I'd type a tip a day off and on until we had all 40. Some are out of date, as you can no longer grab a part from the Husky Products Catalog, but some are still relevant. Any interest? Rest of mag is Husky, Husky, Husky..... with Team Husky's Randy Hawkins riding a 250WR on the cover at my Club's National Enduro. Full coverage inside of Team Husky's Dave Bertram winning the overall on a 500 Auto with a broken odometer, just reading the pie plates!
Norman
 
Norman Foley;3164 said:
I have a 1987 copy of Trail Rider Mag with this article. I thought I'd type a tip a day off and on until we had all 40. Some are out of date, as you can no longer grab a part from the Husky Products Catalog, but some are still relevant. Any interest? Rest of mag is Husky, Husky, Husky..... with Team Husky's Randy Hawkins riding a 250WR on the cover at my Club's National Enduro. Full coverage inside of Team Husky's Dave Bertram winning the overall on a 500 Auto with a broken odometer, just reading the pie plates!
Norman

I'm yur huckleberry! Can you scan any of them and post it in?

T
 
I have no ability to scan, so here goes.....
1. Take a piece of fuel line, split it and safety wire it around your clutch cable where it contacts pipe and water hoses, to act as a heat shield. Your cable will last longer.
2. Replace stock plug cap with Malcolm Smithplug cap. They're more waterproof and stay on better.(Better quality NGK will have to do.)
3. Cut two coils from the throttle spring. Although this will raise the overall spring rate, the reduction in preload will make the throttle work easier.
4. Reverse your footpeg springs. Run right to left, etc. Rig springs, so they are on top to make repairs easier if you mash them on a rock.
5. To lighten up the clutch pull on a 430, replace four of the stock springs with 250. Space them evenly, don't put four 250 springs on one side and the 430 springs right next to each other on the other.
More to come!
Norman
 
6. To lighten up a 250 clutch...any watercooled clutch...use actuating lever and pushrod from an '87 250.
7. Don't do anything to a Four Stroke motor to try and extract more power. If it doesn't go fast enough.... shift up.
8. If you must add something to a Four Stroke, plug a Roost Boost(Remember these!) into the ignition. Jeff Irwin(Team Husky Rider) says they help in some kinds of terrain.
9.Use Husky Products(HP) case guards to protect the hoses on a Four Stroke. p/n 0000510/87. If you rip the hoses off, the Four Stroke can turn itself into srapnel in no time flat.
10. For more revs on the 250, use the HP Pro pipe, if you can get away with it, use a straight through silencer.
11. If you need instant throttle response on your 250, use the internal rotor ignition from the 250CR. This works best in sand or anyplace you don't need to be careful with the throttle.
12. Remove the quick-release clip on the rear brake arm, straighten out the 90 degree bends on the front, and install it backwards. With the longer tabs wrapped around the lever barrel, you'll have a better chance of not knocking it loose.
13. Use Malcolm Smith chain rollers rather than Husky rollers. They last longer, though they don't last forever.
14 Install fuel filter in fuel line.
15. Weld 8mm flange nut to inside of each side of the handlebars and use a pair of rear sprocket bolts to attach your hand guards. It makes it easier to get them on and off.
16. Instal WP forks on the front end. At Speedsville National, two nationally known Husky riders were using WP forks and two were using Showa forks.The glory days of Husky forks are rapidly fading away.
More to come!
Norman
 
17. Remove paint from the motor mount tabs on the frame, the mounting points for the ignition stator plate and from all the mounting points on the rear subframe. Make sure all the contact points between parts is metal-to-metal for better electrical grounding and less chance of loosening.
18. On the older bikes, remove all paint from both sides of the chain adjuster slots and from all contact points of the adjuster bolts. This will keep the bolts from loosening and lessen the chance of breakage.
19. In order to keep all this bare metal from rusting, spray the metal parts of the bike down with Kal-Gard 30/30, Bel-Ray 6 in One, CRC 5-56 or any light lubricating oil immediately after every ride.
20. Clean the paint off the inside of the triple clamps to improve contact between the fork tubes and clamps, This helps to reduce
"flex".
21.When reassembling Husky forks, bottom the chrome tube completely in the slider before you tighten the bottom bolt.Afterwards, stroke the tube in and out to check for resistance or sticking. If it's not centered perfectly, loosen the bolt, turn tube and try again. Don't tighten it again until it is perfect.
22. For the sake of liability problems, we can't tell you to remove the kill button. But we will tell you that if your bike refuses to start, quits un expectedly, doesn't idle or breaks up at high revs, the kill button is what you should test.
23. Remove the rubber rim straps from the inside of the rim and replace them with narrow strips of duct tape.
24. For even better clutch action, use a Terrycable clutch cable. Terry says don't lube them, but don't feel guilty about squirting them full of silicne when they get muddy.
Norman
 
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