• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

400 Enduro single piston brembo help

cOrPsE

cOrPsE

Husqvarna
A Class
As some of you know i recently got a 400 enduro that had been sitting for years and years. Luckily the person winterized it though. So everything is pretty much done, just need to buy an air filter. I just got done bleeding the brakes though and fluid came out so i know the master cylinder is good, but after the bleeding, the brakes still suck. They were bone dry btw as i said. I look at the pads when i hit the brake, and they do move but just barely. Any tips? Could it just be junk pads? I feel like this bike was barely ridden though so idk.
 
take the pads out, pump the pistons out as far as you dare, with the cap off the master cylinder push the piston back in all the way. Reverse bleeding ! If that fails pump the brake quickly until you get a good brake then cable tie it to the bars so the brake is firmly applied. Leave it over night - works for some reason.
 
RTM said:
take the pads out, pump the pistons out as far as you dare, with the cap off the master cylinder push the piston back in all the way. Reverse bleeding ! If that fails pump the brake quickly until you get a good brake then cable tie it to the bars so the brake is firmly applied. Leave it over night - works for some reason.
Click to expand...

ill try it out, thanks
 
Another one is take the m/cylinder off the bars and tie it to the roof so the brake hose is straight from the caliper to the m/cylinder.
Every time you walk past it tap the hose with something.
This loosens the air bubbles and they float to the top.
Can take a while.:thumbsup:
 
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