420 AXC 1981/82

[huskysportswede]

Hi everybody,

IN 81/82, the 420 axc had a problem to start
HVA build a new kit Hub, spring, spacer, freewheel (this kit was free)

I'm sure I have the good Hub (n°790)
but not sure to have all the good new kit
if somebody could show the good parts

also, on my bike, the key on the cranckshaft is brokken each race, but nothing bad about the power engine ..... is it a special key, special material ???

 

[huskysportswede]

have enough power for french championship :-)

 

[huskysportswede]

When I kick the engine, often the main freewheel slip,
but I don't know if it's slip on the cranckshaft or in the hub
all parts looks good, cranckshaft and hub are perfect ..... I don't know about freewheel (how to chek this part, I don't have another one)

 

[huskysportswede]

the black line on each foot (all the line must be on the same place, not like the picture)
Where is the good place ?
- inside (around cranckshaft)
- outside (around the hub)

 

[fran...k.]

I think I tried to bring this problem up a number of years ago. I bought a 360 auto from a guy who had entered a lot of evnts and didn't know what I was talking about as to starting porblems. Those have a lot more smaller pieces. Apparently the big ones like pictured is the improved system, don't know how the 81-82 came origionally. There is a bunch of information in the service bulletins burried in different places accessible on this site which I kind of am glad I didn't know when I rode these things. Mine sits with no front end on it as I was switching to more modern stuff and has sat that way for a long time. I wonder if those bronze bushing things which you have one removed need replacement or sleeved tighter at the crank. I took mine apart and ultra sonic cleaned it a bunch of times and it didn't stay improved for very long at all. It eventually had the crank seal go and I put in a new crankshaft figuring a nice new surface to grab onto and it made it a little better as to slipping and starting but not very much. Be sure and re torque the nut holding the first gear clutch on as per instructions perhaps two or three times in the first hour or two. The taper can weld together without shearing that key so I can only imagine what it can do if it shears. It is probably just a common metric key but over here hardware stores carry inch series keys. I bought one from husky for the next time. Hopefully someone else can help you out a bit more and I also can read.

That kind of device is used in the Norton electric start for 1975 and generally lasts about 25-30,000 miles. Actually the spring in your pictures is in the middle instead of a cage, the freewheels in the rest of the transmission may fail due to the thin spring cage wearing. The service bulletin says to change all of those freewheels every 600 mi, glad I didn't know that. Do what you want but think automatic snow snowmobile probably not the most long life application you are picturing.

fran

 

[huskysportswede]

Thank Fran, I've looking the notice service HVA, but not find explication about that

Do you think this big freewheel was made especialy for husqvarna ?

 

[fran...k.]

Do you think this big freewheel was made especialy for husqvarna ?

I don't know, not sure how many other industrial, agricultural, etc, applications for this kind of device there are. My guess would be it is kind of like the swingarm bearings in your bike. That exact thickness with just one o ring is a special run. There are lots of other similar inside diameter and outside diameter shell needle bearings with two or no o rings and many thicknesses.

"HVA build a new kit Hub, spring, spacer, freewheel (this kit was free)" is the spacer what is in your fingers in the picture or someone's fingers? That is what I call the bronze bushing, is that new and you still have this issue. Was the freewheel new? I also do not know how to tell if it is worn out.

It was frustrating kicking and having it not catch but I could generally get it started and wouldn't have to start it too many times a day because it won't stall and kept running on it's side longer than it took me to pick it up. After a while I upgraded to the 430 which came with papers to get registered which was necessary for great majority the type of events I entered. All in all I think the 420 with the bronze shoes is superior to the 430,(500 also) with the re designed starting mechanism. Though the later ones have more freewheels in the transmission per gear and hence could hold more power one would think.

Fran

 

[rappster]

as for your question about the black lines they should all be facing out, i used to carry a bag full and change these when it acted up, i could never tell the difference from a good one to a bad one. it either worked or it didn't

 

[Bill502]

If I remember correctly there is a Mod. to make these work better. I think you have to take the bronze bushings off an take a small amount off of the inside so that the dogs have enough room to move freely.I think George Earl knows about these or Forrest Stahl.

 

[huskysportswede]

this morning, I've turn all the freeweel (all line ourside, around the hub) of course freewheel was in the good direction (before and now), cleaned all the parts, change oil (Mobil Univis HVI 26)
and it's look good now, I can kick each time (but during 2 years I used with line inside without problem)

Now another problem, each time the key between clutch and cranckshaft broke, do you know another material to make this key; may be this key is to soft for the power

 

[huskysportswede]

If I remember correctly there is a Mod. to make these work better. I think you have to take the bronze bushings off an take a small amount off of the inside so that the dogs have enough room to move freely.I think George Earl knows about these or Forrest Stahl.

I've looking the dog (the foot of freewheel), there are free, but i'd looked next time to work on the bronze bushing
Thank for your help

 

[huskysportswede]

as for your question about the black lines they should all be facing out, i used to carry a bag full and change these when it acted up, i could never tell the difference from a good one to a bad one. it either worked or it didn't

yes, all parts looks in a good shape, it's not easy

 

[fran...k.]

Perhaps our freewheed devices for the starting mechanism have reached the end of their useful lifespan. I wonder if putting a piece of air filter foam or some filtering medium in that little pocket that collects oil that goes in the end of the crank would help once we get it set up so it works well on every kick.

 

[huskysportswede]

Perhaps our freewheed devices for the starting mechanism have reached the end of their useful lifespan. I wonder if putting a piece of air filter foam or some filtering medium in that little pocket that collects oil that goes in the end of the crank would help once we get it set up so it works well on every kick.

Yes, may be the solution ...... Leif Persson tell that

" I been riding Hva Automatik allot and been shoting gearboxes also allot, i remember we had to Change oil after 1 hour aprox "

 

[stormer254]

this morning, I've turn all the freeweel (all line ourside, around the hub) of course freewheel was in the good direction (before and now), cleaned all the parts, change oil (Mobil Univis HVI 26)
and it's look good now, I can kick each time (but during 2 years I used with line inside without problem)

Now another problem, each time the key between clutch and cranckshaft broke, do you know another material to make this key; may be this key is to soft for the power

Have you lapped the center onto the taper with fine valve grinding paste to ensure they have a good contact? Keys are only for location and will not transmit any torque. I always change the oil every time I ride, it is scary the filings that come out with it

 

[stormer254]

this morning, I've turn all the freeweel (all line ourside, around the hub) of course freewheel was in the good direction (before and now), cleaned all the parts, change oil (Mobil Univis HVI 26)
and it's look good now, I can kick each time (but during 2 years I used with line inside without problem)

Now another problem, each time the key between clutch and cranckshaft broke, do you know another material to make this key; may be this key is to soft for the power

Have you lapped the center onto the taper with fine valve grinding paste to ensure they have a good contact? Keys are only for location and will not transmit any torque. I always change the oil every time I ride, it is scary the filings that come out with it

 

[huskysportswede]

Have you lapped the center onto the taper with fine valve grinding paste to ensure they have a good contact? Keys are only for location and will not transmit any torque. I always change the oil every time I ride, it is scary the filings that come out with it

Yes the contact is good, I used paste ...... to much power
I think it's a key for ..... KTM :-)

 

[Michel Dufayard]

Hi Francis
I have a decompressor on my 430 ae.
It needs less power to start, and the kick slips less for starting with shoes in 1 st clutch drum.
Have you ever think about that ?
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/auto-decompression-conversion-for-2-stroke-husky-easy.15000/

 

[huskysportswede]

Hi Francis
I have a decompressor on my 430 ae.
It needs less power to start, and the kick slips less for starting with shoes in 1 st clutch drum.
Have you ever think about that ?
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/auto-decompression-conversion-for-2-stroke-husky-easy.15000/

yes .... may be it's a solution, I don't like decompressor, but if the probleme come back, I'll try it
Thanks Michel

 

[fran...k.]

Hi Francis
I have a decompressor on my 430 ae.
It needs less power to start, and the kick slips less for starting with shoes in 1 st clutch drum.
Have you ever think about that ?
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/auto-decompression-conversion-for-2-stroke-husky-easy.15000/

The 420 auto was the second husky I got and it kicks a lot easier than the first one an xc500. The way my kicking/slipping issue is it pretty much starts slipping at the start of the kick stroke not as max compression is reached. I have thought about machining out the bronze shoe for those pivoting starting pieces of the 430/500 and cutting the six pockets in the first gear drum. If one can tolerate the re designed430/500 first gear spiral cut and shoe material the 500 auto crank stub (drive side) seems the same as the 420 peraps some mix and match is possible. I tended to go through a lot of first gear clutch kits on the 430 and and the top riders (Well higher class anyway who I talked to at resets and known controls) that rode them before I got involved generally said one race (I call them events) per kit. I got maybe 3 or 4, once the spiral cut is gone it isn't quite the same.

But yes I Have intention of trying out one of those compression release things but the water cooled versions seem harder to kick and start for me.

fran