• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

449/511 Rear Rack

Yep. I have one on my TE511 and it is well built and strong. Looks like they've changed the design a bit though. Mine doesn't have that rod connected to the exhaust mount, mine uses two screws for the two front rack bolts that go through the plastic and into the rear fender supports.

Just be mindful that you cut through the pastic in four (looks like only two now) locations to mount this rack.

Good gear though.
 
I got the 2011 model rack from Nomadic and the 2 screws to secure the front are not super strong. However, because the design of the main bracket being close to halfway under the rack, the 2 screws don't seem to get a lot of stress.

Now, Nomadic has added a tubular bracket for the front mount (for MY12-13) which uses the same holes (in the plate/rack) as the screws. Since I live near his shop, I contacted Justin and we both wondered if that bracket would work on my 2011, since the top plate/rack is the same. Unfortunately, it did not bolt right up on mine. Not sure why. Right before I got my rack last year, I crashed and bent the sub-frame in the back pretty good but thought I straightened out pretty close. Maybe not. In the end he needed to modify the bracket just a little to make it work on mine.

The rack has worked great for me, even with the 2 screw front mount. I have a 1 gal rotopax that I use regularly, even considering buying the 1.75 gal rotopax for $60. I also have a wolfman pack that I have used a couple of times in conjunction with the rotopax with 0 issues.

If you order the rack, I would order the MY12-13 with the front bracket and ask him to throw in the 2 spacers and screws needed to mount the other way (for 2011 only).

With the front bracket, mine is bulletproof now! Also, what I really like is the I can grab the rack in the back and pull the backend around in a pinch. With the front bracket, there is another grab hold as well.
 
I have one for my MY13 but haven't installed it yet. Note the rack for the 11-12's is different than the 13's. I did install his rack for My Terra and couldn't be happier.
 
Put er on tonight. Came as advertised.
Installation was pretty strait forward.
Did a dry fit with the white upper fender off just to see how it all went together.
Then just put it on. Was a little tight getting the end bolts back in the subframe but over all pretty easy and seems quite solid.
Now if only the snow would go away....
 
Although this install wasn't terribly difficult I thought I would include a few pics that may help out anyone doing this in the future.
I'll also include install of the flush mount signal lights as it all involves slight hacking….I mean modification of the same area.
No comments on the dirt please, bike is currently being stripped cleaned and greased.

Step one was a "dry fit" without the white top fender/cover.
I found it best to leave everything loose in order to line it up for the subframe bolts.

IMG_2968.JPG
IMG_2969.JPG

Seems simple enough until you realize that you have to have the fender on before installing the rack.
This is where the hacking starts.

Carefully trim out this tab to allow for access to the subframe end bolt from the underside of the fender like this...

IMG_2970.JPG

IMG_2979.JPG
 
Although my measuring skills are pretty good it was much easier to reinstall the white fender cover and drill from the bottom up to create the slots for the rack mount.

IMG_2990.jpg

It is a bit tricky getting the end bolts into the subframe. I recommend doing this bit before tightening anything else up, you'll need all the wiggle room you can get.

The lights were another bit of a head scratcher.
I used a small allen head in place of the supplied screws as the shape of the rear fender is not conducive to using a screw driver.

IMG_2994.JPG

Then a little more careful trimming to allow for the wires to clear while installing or removing the fender.

IMG_2988.jpg

With the tail light out it was pretty easy to trim the wires, attach appropriate connectors, and tuck it all back in.
I did substitute some good quality spade connectors for the supplied bullet connectors. Not that there was anything wrong with them I just find it easier to get them apart later on.

IMG_2981.jpg
 
Quick update. After quite a few hard miles and a few good smacks this product is still holding up well.
I did recently install a 1/2" longer bolt through the exhaust mounting point. The original was just a bit to short for my liking. If you got threads, may as well use them.
 
Back
Top