• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

450te

novice

Husqvarna
B Class
I have a 09 450, full power, I find on the slow stuff I stall a lot or find it spinning up, not to my advantage. My question is, would it be tamer if the lanber senser was refitted, or change the rear sprocket, to a larger one.I use the bike for green laning and I,m no motox hero, just a bit smoother would be nice.
 
I'm not familiar with the power delivery of the 2010's, but a G2 throttle tube really tamed the first 1/4 throttle of my '04 TE 510. It comes with three interchangeable cams to suit your style. I was skeptical at first, but my bike is now really nice to ride in the tight stuff. I was also skeptical of a trials tire. (I'll never go back). I know some guys just turn up the idle a little and a 50T sprocket will slow it down as well. Try the simple things and you'll get the right combination.
Good luck.
 
Agree with the G2 and a larger rear sprocket. Can't comment on a trials tyre never having used one. I did the 52 rear sproket for a while as I was stalling a lot. Then went back to stock after the engine was bedding in. These Huskies take a while to wear in which should equate to a long time to wearing out.

Good luck
 
Hey, novice! I felt exactly the same as you I think. The bike was simply more than I knew how to handle and the explosive power with the slightest tweak of the throttle was too much for me. After a full year trying to adjust, increase my skill, etc, I finally put a throttle cam on. This completely solved the issues for me and smoothed the bike out.

http://g2ergo.com/shop/catalog/G2-Throttle-Cam-System-for-Husqvarna-244.html

I started with the most aggressive cam--that is, the one that calms the first half of twist down the most. I think I could now raise it back up a notch and may try that this season.
 
As everyone has said a G2 throttle is the way to go. The cams come in varying stages of 'softness' ranging from 100 being the same as the standard throttle tube, thru to 400 being the softest. On the TE450/510 we've found most people tend to stick with the 300 but its a 5 minute job to change them over anyway.

Other than that you could try the cheaper option first of fitting the dual mode switch which gives you access to the second 'wet weather' map in the ECU. It takes the edge of the performance slightly but it's not as effective as the G2.

Dave
 
Lean out co1 value with Ibeat and set the idle air bypass to 2 3/4 to 3 turns out regardless of the resting idle speed. Tweak the idle air bypass within this range to achieve smoothest low load throttle runup 1500 - 3500 rpm

Set the software TPS setpoint to achieve 100.2% full throttle - the set the actual throttle hard stop at at 1/2 turn in from the throttle plate seated at no throttle (actual tps will be low 900's mV at this point but software setpoint will remain where it was set). The spark advance doesn't start until the TPS setpoint is reached - so the loaded off-idle response hit is reduced.

This will really smooth out the off-idle response, but will not change the available power at 20+% throttle. Leaning out the co1 value too much will cause the bike to surge in 1/2/3 gear under no load 2500-4000 rpm and will not snap from low to mid throttle.

Use Ibeat to tweak the LINEARITY of the throttle action - not just the power. Get it right and you can crawl up a wall of butter at 2000 rpm.

I have the map1/map2 switch on my 09 TE510 - but never use it. I have read it only stops spark advance after 6000 rpm.

MAT
 
All tis info is great but I'm not so sure if I would want or know how to (bbmat's commets) or if anyone would know how to do this stuff around here Easton Pa. USA
 
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