• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

510 Throttle stop removal?

Turbofox306

Turbofox306

Husqvarna
Picked up an 09 TE510 earlier this year, had 1800 miles on it, I did a bunch of researching before I bought it, looking at different mods people are doing and any issues etc. one mod I see pwople doing is throttle stop removal, my question is, what exactly do you gain by removing it? More rpms?? hopefully some one can chime in that has removed, and can shed some light on if it made a big difference or not.
 

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There was a throttle limiter and a airbox cover that wouldn't allow the bike to rev high enough and be quiet. Part of the items that were to be removed after sale of the bike. These were to allow the bike to be sold as street legal
 
Ive removed the air box cover, the throttle stop is still on the bike, ive yet to hit the rev limtir on it but ive seen over 10,000rpms on a few different occasions, My question is what will i gain by removing it?? One guy wrote on a forum that removing it was a night and day difference, made it feel like a compltely different bike massive power gains etc etc. Any one 2nd that opinion????
 
Cancell that! I just took the guys word for it that it was still on, looking back now when i asked he looked at me like ummmm what? Assuming it was a bad thing if it had been removed, I finally checked for myself, it has been removed, im assuming the dealer took it off
 
Definitely want it removed. Can't say you will notice a night and day difference from just the stop being removed. Maybe the difference between running and not running. My bikes literally wouldn't run with the stop installed and stock map, they would just spit sputter and backfire constantly. Run just a foam filter with a nice grease seal and your g2g.

Couple things about the bike I've learned after owning 3

Cooling- There is a T hose that connects both radiators together. If not already done so, replace it with a Y connections. If you can get your hands on a high flow water pump thats a big plus.

If the temp sensor on the back side of the cylinder is black plastic, replace it. The updated new ones are white, the old ones are known to fail if you get the bike to hot. (Hence why you should at least upgrade the T to a Y connection on radiators)

Check the valves regularly, if it takes more than 3 or 4 revolutions to get her going odds are at least one valve is out of spec.

Valve cover breather elbow will crack and leak after a while. When in there to check the valves it helps to put a bead of silicone or jb weld to secure and seal the little plastic elbow off.

Slave cylinder piston will eventually wear a groove on the inside of slave cylinder causing it to leak clutch fluid into your crankcase while making the clutch squishy or unresponsive all together. 7602 racing makes and upgraded piston that is easy to swap out and can save headaches and money down the line.

Fuel Tank- The fuel pump has a tendency to wiggle its way out of it "boot" or "sleeve" that it's mounted in. When it does, the pump can't pick up the last half gallon of gas or so reducing the range you can get. Pull the pump out of the bottom of the tank and re secure the pump with safety wire or zip ties. There is definitely a thread on here about exactly how to do that just give it a search.
Wheel Balancing makes a huge difference on the road and in the trails as well. Well worth getting some re-useable spoke weights to get the wheels from not hopping everywhere above 50mph.

Highly recommend going through the wiring once and just tidying everything up with zip ties. Higher mile bikes have shown fraying in some spots if not properly secured before it has a chance to happen. Check out OldHuskyRiders thread about cheap tricks for this style bike. He's basically nailed down every hot spot where the wires can potentially fray and has documented it well.

Im sure theres other stuff I'm forgetting

If you have the $dough$ available, buy yourself a powercommander and get a tune or upload a fuel map from the EFI section on here. Biggest difference out of any mod i made was getting a map made for the bike. Night and Day difference.
 
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