• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

7602 Radiator Braces & Guards on 14 TE 310

2wheeler

Husqvarna
AA Class
The red ones sure are pretty :D Thinking about calling them soon.

Did a search, read some 'old' threads. I've never had radiator braces.

Anyone got them on a 14 310?
Do the radiators need to be drained and/or removed all together? Or can the braces be slid on from the top?
Any cable/wiring clearance issues?
Grinding needed?

I'm sure instructions are included but I would like a peek at the install in case I need to line up some tools or an extra hand. How did the install go for you?
 
  • Like
Reactions: JAM
Adding 7602 red radiator braces was one foe the first mods I did to my ''14 TE310R but at the same time I also added silicone hoses and converted to waterless coolant. So, in my case it simpler just to remove the raditors to give them a good cleaning a do some minor straightening of a few raditor fins that had been hit by debris.

The kit is very well engineered and easy to install. If memory serves I believe it would be possible to simply unbolt the radiators from the frame, slide the assembled guards in from behind the raditors and bolt everything back up without having to remove the hoses.

A few notes: You have the option of reusing the plastic OEM radiator louvers without modification, replacing them with the 7602's optional aluminum front guards only, or you can use both together. To do the later you must modify the OEM louvers slightly (explained in the instructions).

The 7602 raditor fan installs the rear of the right guard easily and perfectly. Unfortunately there is no similar accommodation for the OEM horn's mount. There is a pre-drilled hole in the right area but it's too small.

I used a 3/4" counter sink bit to hog it out to the proper size - the CS bit works better than simply drilling the right size hole (you'll see why when you see the shape of the horn's bracket). I also filed approx 1/8" of material off the side of the guard to index the the horn bracket and keep it from rotating if hit. Not a big deal, adds about an extra 15 minutes - if you do this before mounting the guard and right raditor!

Looking back I would have used this opportunity to replace the heavy and unsightly OEM horn with a small piezo type mounted near the headstock ornbehind the headlight/number plate assembly. They're less than $10, weigh nothing, and would eliminate the need to modify the bracket - takes less time too.

I rarely ride mine on street. It typically sits with a TXC number plate and rear fender installed, and with the turn signals, mirrors, horn, head or brake lights removed.

I really like 7602's stuff. I have their front & rear disk guards and their case saver - all excellent products that work as advertised and bolted up perfectly.

My only criticism of their products is that their red anodizing leaves a bit to be desired - in 6 months the disc guards and case saver have faded from a deep red to a dull, amost pinkish color. My bike is stored indoors, dark warehouse, when not in use so it's not like it been baking under the Texas sun. So not sure why the anodizing's not holding up on those items.

Strangely, the anodizing on the raditor guards hasn't suffered the same fate. They were the first 7602 product installed and still look a good as new.

You can see how the horn's mount passes through the modified right-side brace near the very top right corner of 3rd photo. Hope this helps. Good luck.

image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
 
Thank you Angus! Great insight and tips! :thumbsup:

Are the silicone hoses and waterless coolant geared toward racing or extreme riding?

I'm and over the hill mild trail rider. The bike is hauled to riding areas. But I don't rule out an occasional loop on the street near the house @ around 45 mph.
 
I recommend the red silicone hoses and XF waterless coolant at the time of the brace install. Eliminate the thermostat as well, you will thank me down the road. Simplicity now - results in a more trouble free riding experience down the road.
 
It is interesting the TE and TXC have a thermostat and the TC does not.

From my understanding the TC is motocross and TXC is cross country.

It gets pretty toasty and muggy during summer in the SE US. Does the coolant have sufficient time to cool without the thermostat before entering the engine?
 
It is interesting the TE and TXC have a thermostat and the TC does not.

From my understanding the TC is motocross and TXC is cross country.

It gets pretty toasty and muggy during summer in the SE US. Does the coolant have sufficient time to cool without the thermostat before entering the engine?
It seems to be the must do mod. Zip-Ty coolant is supposed to help a ton too. It sounds like the thermostat slows the coolant down to much especially with the way everything's routed on the TE's. You can still keep the fan too but you'd have to look at the how to's
 
2Wheeler: I think someone at Husky thought the guy who came up the convoluted circulatory system for the motor oil did such a bang-up job with it that they decided to let him work his "magic" on coolant system too.

The motor, lubricated by a couple thimbles of oil, heats up quickly and runs hot. I've never timed it exactly but after starting my bike from cold if seems that if there's any delay in getting my helmet, goggles & gloves on the radiator's fan will be running before I can throw a leg over it and ride away.

For those that live in Green Bay or Buffalo and ride when its 100 below zero the thermostat might be of some marginal value but I most of us won't miss it at all. The silicone hoses are tougher, have smoother flow characteristics internally, and can withstand much higher external temps (I trust you've noticed the radiator hose that runs just a few mm's above the exhaust header? Yikes!).

There are numerous threads attesting to rides and races being done in by OEM hose failures. No bike will ever be bulletproof but by retaining the fan, eliminating the thermostat, and replacing the OEM hoses you will eliminate several common points of failure on these bikes.

The waterless coolant has a higher boiling point than anything else I'm aware of. Detractors will point out that the lower boiling point of water/coolant mixtures can provide advanced warning of a potentially catastrophic engine failure; i.e., the bike starts puking steam and coolant sooner. Their point's valid but there are workarounds.

I use a Trail Tech Vapor on my orange bike running waterless coolant. It allow me to program two different temperature settings - at the lower setting a yellow LED will illuminate and "High" is displayed on the LCD screen. At the highest setting a red LED illuminates and the display reads, "Danger". On my 301R I simply stuck a CV4 adhesive temperature strip atop the left radiator and I monitor it when I think about it.

I'm a recent convert to waterless coolant but it looks like my bikes are going to survive an entire Texas summer without a single overheating issue or having to add an single drop. When I checked my coolant levels Sunday night they were at the exact same height when I poured the stuff in originally and, best of all, not a hint of scale or corrosion. Good stuff.

Below is a pic with the left 7602 brace installed showing where I relocated in-line temp sensor for the radiator fan:
 

Attachments

  • CV4 - TE310R - SFSMBC173R.jpg
    CV4 - TE310R - SFSMBC173R.jpg
    99.1 KB · Views: 55
Thanks guys. Yeah I lived in Dallas and Houston once. Texas knows hot. Interesting Angus how quickly your fan came on. Looks like I have more work to do.
 
I have them on my '13 TE310R and my CR144. They are quality items and have saved my radiators more than once. Last ride on my 144, I nailed a tree on the right side hard enough to roll the bars back, bust the number plate and lower shroud, knock the stock louver out, but the radiator is fine. I on the other hand was seeing double for a few minutes.
 
Yikes quite an impact.

Shipment arrived today, nice!

What is the trick to the fuel hose clamp? Looks like one end hooks over a nub.
 
If you mean the fuel line from the tank to the injector, it is easier to undo it from the injector. It has a squeeze fitting on the end. You pinch on each side and it should slide off.
I would guess if you search the forum, there will be a thread showing this.
 
The connector hose between the fuel taps. Tried searching here, and elsewhere. It may be an Oetiker type. New to my eyes. It appears I could pop it loose with a tiny flat head or cut the nub with wire cutters. Racers must keep a supply of these and a crimping tool or else go with the bolt/nut type injection hose clamp. What works for you guys?
 
The right side petcock hose connection should have a normal hose clamp that you remove along with the electrical connection.
 
Back
Top