• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

78' 390 Amx/or First Gear

Robert Rhodes

Robert Rhodes

Husqvarna
C Class
Thank you for the wealth of knowledge and information on this forum. I have been in the tech section and through a couple threads to try and diagnose the issue I am having.

I believe my machine is a 1978 390 OR or a 390 AMX. It is in incredible condition.

The issue is I believe in the clutch drum or somewhere behind it. When kicking over the kick starter, the crank will not turn over. The brake lever on the right side of the case is working properly.

I opened up the side cover and found that the clutch drum spins freely as I spin it. Don't completely understand why. Is this suppose to be the case? If so, I am trying to understand how the crank can turn. Piston is free.

IMG_3190.JPG
 
There is a one way bearing between the drum and the crank for starting except yours is now a 2 way bearing .
Later models got propper fingers a notch like a chainsaw for example .
 
A new one way bearing on the crankshaft will hopefully do the job, this is an easy job, but the crankshaft does wear as well and sometimes the shaft needs replacing as well which is bit of a pain. There is a thread that links to workshop manuals. The tech section on here no longer works.
 
Thank you all for the reply. Attached is what I believe to be the photo of the parts diagram for what is behind the clutch drum. Is #46 the one way bearing? If so, where can I get one?


Screen Shot 2019-01-02 at 2.45.43 AM.png

I have the workshop manual. Found it on a thread. I believe the hole in the shoes are original. Not 100% sure though. That is how I received the bike.
 
Probably extra holes for a clutch holding tool Michel?
Robert, do you have a spring saver for the first gear clutch? Saves a lot of damage when a spring breaks!!
 
DSCN0453.JPG
In the middle a 500 ae shoe ( 2nd or third gear) which was used in some models.
I doubt that the 9 (!) holes were made for using a tool.
 
47 will be the one way bearing .
The extra holes might be someone's idea of getting a better hole shot if it's an mx model .
All the other autos are setup for enduro .
There is an oil feed to these bearings setup in the case you have removed . Flatten the end of a piece of wire into a spade and make cleaning it out part of your routine maintenance
 
Thank you silverstreakNZ! You've been most helpful. I think you may be correct about the holes, they may have been a modification by the previous owner.

As soon as I get ahold of a new bearing, I will go through the process of taking the nut off with the special tool and replacing it. Then we can talk about a spring cover.
 
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