• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

82 WR430 replacing crank seals

S

sam2

Husqvarna
I need to split the cases to replace my crank seals and I was not sure how to set the timing on this bike most bikes i have seen have a mark in the case that lines up with the ignition but I don't see one. Can anyone with experience with this bike provide some insight and advice?
 
If it's correct now, just make some marks with a punch. Otherwise, it's best to use a dial indicator and set it by the "mm BTDC" method.
 
Yes, it is a motoplat mini6 ignition, and when I did the top end a few months back I checked and the timing was on spec, soI suppose I can just make a line on the stator and the case and line them up when I reassemble? Thanks everybody for the prompt replies I am new to huskies but I am certainly already addicted! Also, does anyone know if the mini6 ignition is original with this bike? I was told that the WR model should have enough charging power to run the headlight properly, but at night (bike is street legal) my headlight is extremely dim until I hit mid-rpm's. When I got the bike there was a crappy old battery wired onto it, which others have told me this bike should not need. I removed it and it made no difference in the lighting issue. Someone I know suggested that the bike may have been converted to a chraging system not designed to run lights, this is why I ask if the mini6 is original. Any insights would be greatly appreciated!
 
you have MOTOPLAT xc !
3 cables
black/blue ignition
yellow ligths =35 watts !

SEM/AMAL europe
2 yellows = 70 watts x 2 !

you are US boy ?
allumage SEM AMAL.jpg

in picture SEM/AMAL husqvarna WR !
 
Ok so since I have the mini 6 not the SEM ignition does that mean that it was switched over to the motoplat? Why would someone do this? what, if any, are the advantages of the motoplat? Is there anything I can do to help run the lights without switching the whole system? And yes, I am from the U.S. I live in New Jersey I ride in the pine barrens.
 
in europe WR = is SEM ! (street-légal )
in USA WR = XC or CR = MOTOPLAT !?
advantages
SEM =lights +++ 70 watts x 2 !
MOTOPLAT = one light 40 watt ?

possible other ignition PVL !
NOS refabrication 110 watts !
 
wrstatmont.jpg

PVL replacement husqvarna 1980/ 1988=
advantage 40 000 volts for spark -plug
(10000 volts sem/motoplat ! ) and
70/110 watts for light !
price in europe = 300 $
 
Ok motor is split, but there seems to be a surprising amount of scoring on the jug/piston considering i did a top end maybe 200 miles ago. the scoring is in two spots opposite eachother in the bore. Anyone know what could be causing this premature wear. I run full synthetic mix at 32:1 which i have been told should be plenty, but would more oil in the mix help?
 
Ok I know the FLYWHEEL side nut is reverse thread, and I sorted out that the SHIFTER side nut is normal direction as I just removed it, but now
I cannot seem to pull the gear on the LEFT/SHIFTER side of the crank. I am seeing pictures only of later models and on those it looks as if it is pressed onto the crank taper, but I just made a puller that should have pulled it and after cleaning off the oil it looks like the threads are attatched to the gear. Is it just on there that tight that it looks like one piece? i cranked on the puller enough that I felt it should have come off if it was just stuck onto the taper, and i did not feel comfortable applying any more force. I cannot find any pictures or reference for this year bike. How do I pull this crank gear?
 
The gear is not on a tapered shaft. May need a little heat to get it to break free.
 
Lil trick I do. Put puller back on and tighten. Do you have an air chisel? I put the bit in air hammer that has the point on it.

Put it in middle of gear, pull trigger quick and release. Wallah! Pops right off with no damage.
 
Ok I got the gear off the left side of the crank all it needed was some WD-40, an uncomfortable amount of pressure from my home made puller and a couple hammer whacks:). Is it now safe to push the crank out of the left case half from the left side (using the tusk pusher tool with three arms)??
 
Ok so i tried to remove the crank with the tusk tool and the damned thing broke! one of the arms snapped right off of the tool. I wouldn't reccomend this tool to anyone because it is not welded strongly enough for the load it takes (obviously). I'm considering making one with a pusher bolt through the middle of a steel plate with holes so it can be attatched by the clutch cover studs.
 
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