• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

84 400 WR timing issues

suprize

suprize

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Hi all, can anyone tell me the timing specs BTDC for the 84 wr 400.
I see in the tech refs there is a reference to 3.5mm btdc but my stator only goes to 2.5mm before the slots butt up against the bolts? Something is not right, the ref may be for an early aircooled 400 perhaps.

The original marks were around 1.5mm (its a motoplat)

Any assistance gratefully accepted
 
The previous air cooled 400 was 1975. You may have gotten a bike somone replaced the ignition from something else. Happens all the time in vintage world
 
thanks guys i plan to set it at around 1.8 -2mm (measuring device is about that accurate!) cheers
 
Some of the specs list a distance the piston is below the absolute top and also a distance along the circumference of the stator before piston is at absolute top. I made a sort of protractor that bolts onto two holes and marked the stator/flyheel. Not exactly the same bike but the same crank essentially in another year and displacement 18 degrees spec 12 is what I am currently using.
 
yes its a runner. i set it roughly at 2mm and it still wouldnt go but as soon as i bolted the shox on, it started second kick.. go figure?
Probably able to deliver a much more effective stab at the lever than when it was on the block is my guess but thanks for all your suggestions and help.
 
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