• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

84 wr 240, on 250 piston and vespa cdi.

T

ty w

Husqvarna
B Class
runs great again, all i need is asphalt for traction to wheelie more. the dirt and gravel roads only good to drift. wrong triple clamps? fork tubes up almost 2 inches for no pot hole wobble at high speed. if there flush to top clamp, makes for too much caster, and jerks and wobbles over pot holes or landing a jump. there was at least 2 styles of fork clamps, one where the tube holes almost beside center stem, and the other where the tube holes were forward more from the center stem. raised up forks goes perfectly straight without any jerking wobble. unresoled this situation could spell disaster.
and i blew the sem cdi coil box , so i replaced it with the vespa one. i would be interested to try an original sem one to see if theres a performance difference. does anybody know for sure if the sem box advanced timing with rpm (timing curve)

meanwhile daisy duke and boss hogg back at the ranch, i eventually got a better solution
 
gave up on finnicky vespa cdi, tried capoli (crapoli) cdi small spark 2 times per revolution , once at tdc and second half way up compression stroke, no good. decided to make it from scratch to work any coil, and success

waaaay better
 
and now ive an even better idea is to build 2 cdi in one block, for two reason... one is that with the small scooter coil , you could have a backup ignition. so that when it leavs you stranded, just swich wires and then you could go on. the second reason is to count on murphys law and that it will never fail again.
 
Murphy's first law:
If anything can go wrong, it will.

Murphy's second law:
If something doesn't goes wrong, you will soon discover it was better and cheaper if it went wrong from the beginning.

Murphy's third law:
The probability that something breaks is directly proportional to its value.
 
ty w said:
runs great again, all i need is asphalt for traction to wheelie more. the dirt and gravel roads only good to drift. wrong triple clamps? fork tubes up almost 2 inches for no pot hole wobble at high speed. if there flush to top clamp, makes for too much caster, and jerks and wobbles over pot holes or landing a jump. there was at least 2 styles of fork clamps, one where the tube holes almost beside center stem, and the other where the tube holes were forward more from the center stem. raised up forks goes perfectly straight without any jerking wobble. unresoled this situation could spell disaster.
and i blew the sem cdi coil box , so i replaced it with the vespa one. i would be interested to try an original sem one to see if theres a performance difference. does anybody know for sure if the sem box advanced timing with rpm (timing curve)

meanwhile daisy duke and boss hogg back at the ranch, i eventually got a better solution
Click to expand...

If the triple clamps are the stock, then the tubes should be in front of the center stem, unless someone put the stem on backwards.
 
the forks are foreward of the stem, what i mean is that some clamps have the stem half inch rear of the forks and other stems have ye forks almost two nches forwrd ot the stem. the forks and stem arent paralell. infact their axis crosses so that the tire contacts the ground slightly rear of where the stem axis points to the ground. if the contact point is too far rear of the stem axis point, it causes wobble. oversize front tire, undersize rear tire, forks too extended on clamps, and even leaning back hard can all affect this geometry wich shows up in this condition.but im figuring tis is an adjustment for if riding in the woods or fast road
 
All too hard to imagine how about a pikky ?
NO advance in SEM ignitions.
Where you set it is where it stays.
 
i dont know what you mean by ' a picky'
the axle mounts with 2 clamps on front side ot forks, as opposed to under the bottom of forks. if it where the under side it would be more caster and it already has i bit too much. it needs the contact point of the tire to road mooved foreward in order to reduce caster.
i think.
interesting that you say that sem dont have any advance, ive yet to check with a timing light, although by the electronic way it triggers at 1.5 volts on the ac 6v trigger signal and the trigger signal increasing with rpm, the 1.5 volt point on the wave would happen earlyer on this volt wave. and as the circut has a voltage divider in the cdi to cut this 6vac to about 2vac this delays the trigger point from 1.5 /24ths of the length of the voltage sign wave to about 5 / 24ths of the wave length , almost a quarter wavelength delay at low rpm , and as prm increases the wave amplitude increases causing less delay of trigger point. and this next is just a guess that this 6vac trigger wave would start at about 2.5 mm btdc and complete at 0.5mm btdc. so a quarter wave would be about .5 mm of piston movement just before tdc. would be better to calculate in degrees rotation of crank.

i hope that explains the electronic theory that makes me think it does advance, not digital but rudementary analog, more advance than the old points
 
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