• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

86 400 XC Clutch adjustment

Data Sheet says 2.05mm. Most people run between 1.8 - 2.0mm
1.8mm should help on starting and kick back

Here some info you might like to have

IMG_2121.jpgIMG_2123.jpgIMG_2124.jpgIMG_2125.jpg
 
Perfect, thank you! I was even able to save these into my phone with the click of a button for future reference. I acquired a dial indicator and have an old spark plug and will give making one of those a try.

Can I use anything that fits well (like the tip of an appropriately sized punch) for the purposes of keeping the holes lined up while I turn stator and flywheel? Or, is there a special tool I should be acquiring?
 
The 400 is known for running backwards too, mine would do it at least once a riding season, but never kicked back
 
Perfect, thank you! I was even able to save these into my phone with the click of a button for future reference. I acquired a dial indicator and have an old spark plug and will give making one of those a try.

Can I use anything that fits well (like the tip of an appropriately sized punch) for the purposes of keeping the holes lined up while I turn stator and flywheel? Or, is there a special tool I should be acquiring?



I use a drill bit that has a snug fit.
 
I made a dial with an old spark plug and the reading came out to a healthy 1.87 mm BTDC. I decided to go through the motions of setting the timing to 1.8 since the original problem started because one of the bolts holding the backing plate on came loose (i.e., adding loctite to the bolts was a good idea).

Set the timing to “exactly” 1.8 BTDC, put everything back together, and voila! Starts up first kick without any kick back and idles like a dream.

Clutch was still slipping when I tried for a test run even with what I think is the right amount of play at lever and arm. Since going through the motions with the timing worked like a charm, I will do the same with the clutch and see where we end up.
 
Clutch was still slipping when I tried for a test run even with what I think is the right amount of play at lever and arm. Since going through the motions with the timing worked like a charm, I will do the same with the clutch and see where we end up.[/quote]


The clutch pack adjustment is important. When adjusting I always error to the side of more play in the rod. If you have too much play it may drag a little with the clutch is pulled in, but won't slip!
 
Back on the clutch; over time the pressure plate wears. A little bit more on the outside edge than on the inside edge. The face develops a slight taper. You can cut a small groove on the inside edge of the pressure plate to mitigate this wear and keep the first clutch plate in more even contact.
 
Th
In my opinion , before you try kickstarting your bike again you should check out how your kick starter is set up , especially since you say that it is kicking back . Did you remove the kickstarter to remoce the clutch cover ? Or maybe a previous owner did . What some owners tend to do is to rotate the kickstarter to try and get a more complete kick to help it start easier but what that does is remove the play in the kick start mechanism to the point that if it kicks back , the pawl that contacts the starting gear under the clutch cover either can’t or doesn’t have enough time to release . This can result in some expensive broken parts that could include the left (clutch side ) center case . I believe there is a post about ‘timing’ of the kickstarter that you may want to find and watch . You should also check that all your grounds or earths are clean and corrosion free and i would recomend verifying with a good ohm meter .


Timely advice, I did this kick-starter no-no, but haven't run the bike yet.
 
Watch the YouTube videos by typing: Hva Factory Everything you need to know on clutches is there****************************************


Andy
 
Back
Top