• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

86 WR400 fuel and oil issue

Rhodeislander

Rhodeislander

Husqvarna
B Class
I finally found some time to work on the bike and found it was smelling like fuel badly after sitting. The petcock had fail and the engine had filled with fuel. A lot of fuel. I needed to pull the motor anyway as the rear bushings were shot. I checked the oil prior to removal and it was green? I assume anti freeze. So, i drained the oil/anti freeze mix, and dumped a good amount of fuel from the intake area. Motor is on the bench now.
What should I be looking for for causes?
Fuel
Carb float? is there a needle and seat in these?
Just replace petcock?

Anti freeze issue
bad gasket somewhere?

Lastly, I was pretty upset to find the original issue of the rear bushing slop, was not the bushing. It was the case hole the bushing sits in, not that the bushing wasnt shot as well. Any ideas on the engine case hole being elongated and too large?(Insert female anatomy joke here)
I think i have bit of more than im ready for on the this project...
Bud
 
Upon inspection the intake flange rubber is shot too, cracked. Its the 4 bolt unit that the carb slides into. Ideas on where to find one on these?
 
Husqvarna-parts.com would be my first choice for parts. If you pull the connector for the coolant hoses off the water pump you will likely find same as I found on my 85 400WRX: major corrosion behind impellor from using regular coolant. I was told by Phillip at www.husqvarna-parts.com to only use premix coolant that was mixed with deionized water. If your clutch cover is in otherwise great shape like mine you can repair the corrosion by brushing corrosion out fully clean with a stainless steel wire brush, do not touch anything you cleaned with ungloved hands, and seal the case with JB Weld. Mine was bad enough that I had to build a new seal pocket with JB Weld and have a machine shop bore the fit for the seal
 
As for the rest of your questions the source of all these problems is simple: previous owner ignorance and or neglect
 
If the rear engine mounting point is that bad you can get a replacement centercase set on eBay or this forum. You can use cases from 400,430, & 500 engines without modifications. You can use a set from 82 and up 250s by removing the reduction web from the crank well
 
check out my rebuild on the projects page it has good detail on the water pump issue fix. i water blasted the area to remove all the corrosion, a wire brush wont cut it. you will beback at sq 1 in 6 months.i thenmasked the o ring channel with tape and put a plug in bearing boss and filled the area with24hr araldite.i then machined the surface flat and bored out the seal boss. so far so good, no green gbox oil!
 
suprize said:
check out my rebuild on the projects page it has good detail on the water pump issue fix. i water blasted the area to remove all the corrosion, a wire brush wont cut it. you will beback at sq 1 in 6 months.i thenmasked the o ring channel with tape and put a plug in bearing boss and filled the area with24hr araldite.i then machined the surface flat and bored out the seal boss. so far so good, no green gbox oil!
Click to expand...


I dont think this is bad, looks pretty clean? Head gasket maybe?
Bud
 
Rhodeislander said:


I dont think this is bad, looks pretty clean? Head gasket maybe?
Bud
Click to expand...
suprize said:
check out my rebuild on the projects page it has good detail on the water pump issue fix. i water blasted the area to remove all the corrosion, a wire brush wont cut it. you will beback at sq 1 in 6 months.i thenmasked the o ring channel with tape and put a plug in bearing boss and filled the area with24hr araldite.i then machined the surface flat and bored out the seal boss. so far so good, no green gbox oil!
Click to expand...


Kinda looks more white than green?
Water maybe? Fuel that was draining down inside due to bad petcock?
I'm stumped.
Bud
 
Silly question but is the water pump drain hole open ?
It's underneath the water pump and drains any water that gets past the seal.
I bought a 240 that had obviously had a leaky seal , the dick##d who owned it decided to stop the water coming out and filled the hole with silastic.
This forced the water through the pump shaft bearing seals and the gearbox oil looked like that.
The other one is the gearbox breather.
Cheers

Ps. Rodeislander if you were to clean up the water pump area and spray paint it with enamel paint you would never get a corrosion problem there.
 
dukkman said:
Silly question but is the water pump drain hole open ?
It's underneath the water pump and drains any water that gets past the seal.
I bought a 240 that had obviously had a leaky seal , the dick##d who owned it decided to stop the water coming out and filled the hole with silastic.
This forced the water through the pump shaft bearing seals and the gearbox oil looked like that.
The other one is the gearbox breather.
Cheers

Ps. Rodeislander if you were to clean up the water pump area and spray paint it with enamel paint you would never get a corrosion problem there.
Click to expand...

You were right. Silicone was up inside the hole. I pulled it out and water came out, not much but some.
I assume this means I need a new seal, is this a big job and do you know if they are available?
 
seals are readily available. note the way it comes out. pull the clutch cover off and replace the bearings as well as inspect the housing for leaks. cheers
 
You have a 2 cycle engine. Fuel will not get into your geabox oil unless you have a seriously cracked crancase(not likely) Depending on how long and where it was sitting it could be condensation
 
Seal spring goes OUT.
You can see the spring when the seal is in place.
Just take the impeller off and there it is.
Can buy the seal in any bearing supply shop as it's a standard size.
Cheers
 
Thanks guys, started a new thread in the restorations area. Going all the way now with this baby.
Seal had rtv blue glue in it from the PO. The bearings feel loose, replacing all of it to be sure.
 
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