• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

86 WR400 water pump replacement

Rhodeislander

Rhodeislander

Husqvarna
B Class
I finally had the time to open this up and see whats goin on. The PO had globbed blue rtv on the outer seal to stop the leak into the case, this also blocked the drain hole. I would like to replace both bearings and seal. Looking for help on where to buy these items. USA would be best.

Also, with this open for view, what else should I be looking for? No cracks in case, very clean really.

Thanks guys,
Bud
 
Rhodeislander said:
I finally had the time to open this up and see whats goin on. The PO had globbed blue rtv on the outer seal to stop the leak into the case, this also blocked the drain hole. I would like to replace both bearings and seal. Looking for help on where to buy these items. USA would be best.

Also, with this open for view, what else should I be looking for? No cracks in case, very clean really.

Thanks guys,
Bud
Click to expand...
www.husqvana-parts.com
 
there isnt any corrosion around the seal?? check out my resto inthe resto section, u will see a bad waterpump case!
 
When you replace the bearings take the seals off [ must use sealed bearings ] the first bearing with a fine blade [ I use a hacksaw blade ground down to almost nothing ] and pack the bearing with waterproof grease.
Then fit the seals back on and push the bearing into the case.
The second bearing has one seal removed on the gearbox oil side but has the other seal [ waterpump side ] left on.
If you have less than 3 seals on the bearings the gearbox oil will run out the water drain hole when the bike is leaning on the side stand.
You will have a puddle of oil on the floor and won't be able to find where it comes from.
I have worked my way up from 1 seal to 3 and have finally stopped the leak.:doh:
 
Those little bearings are really common. They are in my 5 horse power self propelled lawn mower for wheel bearings, they are in the aftermarket and origional chain rollers. They do have two different part numbers and I bought some of the origionals, like stated above the seals are the only difference. I can't say off hand how the seals went origionally.

What you also should do is examine the spindle where the seal rides, whether the spindle drifted out and the impeller and and outer housing piece have worn against each other. It is pretty common to see shortened impellers. Last I checked the spindle cost like $60 and an entire rebuilt waterpump for my ford van from wholesale ford parts was like $85 so some of this stuff can get a bit furstrating if you don't have a bone pile to search through.

Apparently some of the spindles have a thinner extention that goes into a socket in the outer housing which I though was superior but was informed that was early on and not available, perhaps the spindle isn't available by now anyway.

Fran
 
fran...k. said:
Those little bearings are really common. They are in my 5 horse power self propelled lawn mower for wheel bearings, they are in the aftermarket and origional chain rollers. They do have two different part numbers and I bought some of the origionals, like stated above the seals are the only difference. I can't say off hand how the seals went origionally.

What you also should do is examine the spindle where the seal rides, whether the spindle drifted out and the impeller and and outer housing piece have worn against each other. It is pretty common to see shortened impellers. Last I checked the spindle cost like $60 and an entire rebuilt waterpump for my ford van from wholesale ford parts was like $85 so some of this stuff can get a bit furstrating if you don't have a bone pile to search through.

Apparently some of the spindles have a thinner extention that goes into a socket in the outer housing which I though was superior but was informed that was early on and not available, perhaps the spindle isn't available by now anyway.

Fran
Click to expand...

I will look at the shaft to see if any burrs or grooves exist before the new seal goes on. I ordered new seal and bearings last night. Impeller looks ok, housing is good. PO did fill drain hole, i assume that was part of the problem. Any thoughts on getting bearing off shaft? I assume its pressed. War going to use a socket and vise to press off gingerly...
 
dukkman said:
When you replace the bearings take the seals off [ must use sealed bearings ] the first bearing with a fine blade [ I use a hacksaw blade ground down to almost nothing ] and pack the bearing with waterproof grease.
Then fit the seals back on and push the bearing into the case.
The second bearing has one seal removed on the gearbox oil side but has the other seal [ waterpump side ] left on.
If you have less than 3 seals on the bearings the gearbox oil will run out the water drain hole when the bike is leaning on the side stand.
You will have a puddle of oil on the floor and won't be able to find where it comes from.
I have worked my way up from 1 seal to 3 and have finally stopped the leak.:doh:
Click to expand...

My second bearing was installed seal side to oil, water side open. I assume that was not good. Maybe why the PO filled drain with rtv?
 

Outside of cover area, looks nice.



Bizarre part is the PO painted the inside with epoxy, no damage, maybe a preventative?
 
[quote="Rhodeislander, post: 241350, member: 9185
Outside of cover area, looks nice.

Bizarre part is the PO painted the inside with epoxy, no damage, maybe a preventative?[/quote]

All mine have the epoxy on the inside. The came that way.
 
dukkman said:
When you replace the bearings take the seals off [ must use sealed bearings ] the first bearing with a fine blade [ I use a hacksaw blade ground down to almost nothing ] and pack the bearing with waterproof grease.
Then fit the seals back on and push the bearing into the case.
The second bearing has one seal removed on the gearbox oil side but has the other seal [ waterpump side ] left on.
If you have less than 3 seals on the bearings the gearbox oil will run out the water drain hole when the bike is leaning on the side stand.
You will have a puddle of oil on the floor and won't be able to find where it comes from.
I have worked my way up from 1 seal to 3 and have finally stopped the leak.:doh:
Click to expand...

The proper procedure is remove all seals from first bearing and leave one seal installed on second bearing facing the impellar. The water pump bearings are lubed by tranny fluid. The only reason you leave the one seal installed on the second bearing facing the water pump impellar is so that if the shaft seals blows out you don't pump coolant into the tranny, hence why the tranny fluid pours out of the weep hole on the bottom side of the case.

All you need are 2 seals, if you are still leaking out of the weep hole the only issue is the shaft seal, period. Keeping the seals on the first bearing does nothing as far as keeping coolant from pouring out of the weep hole. If anything it hurts both bearings as they are no longer lubed by tranny fluid.
 
Do as 87 has said and fit 1 seal on bearings.

If you find that your GEARBOX OIL leaks out of the water overflow hole then you might like to try fitting 2 seals.
If you were to do this then you would have to put some grease in the bearing to stop it wearing out [ just like they come from the factory ] .
I used waterproof because I like it !
If you were to STILL have oil on the floor under the waterpump then you might like to fit another seal , which would now make 3 seals.
Betcha that the problem is fixed now.

One thing 87.
At no time was I talking about a water leak.
Read my post again.:thinking:
 
dukkman said:
Do as 87 has said and fit 1 seal on bearings.

If you find that your GEARBOX OIL leaks out of the water overflow hole then you might like to try fitting 2 seals.
If you were to do this then you would have to put some grease in the bearing to stop it wearing out [ just like they come from the factory ] .
I used waterproof because I like it !
If you were to STILL have oil on the floor under the waterpump then you might like to fit another seal , which would now make 3 seals.
Betcha that the problem is fixed now.

One thing 87.
At no time was I talking about a water leak.
Read my post again.:thinking:
Click to expand...
:doh: haha

I thought you where talking about water leaking out of the weep hole. My bad, carry on.
 
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