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Adjusting preload on rear shock?

W

wncstrada

Husqvarna
B Class
I'm to the point where I want to experiment with some suspension adjustments on my 08" SM610. I whipped out my trusty owner's manual and read up on adjusting the rear shock. Out to the garage, removed the left side cover, and instead of having a clear view of the shcock I'm looking at the wiring harness. How do you folks get to your rear shock? Are you using one of the special wrenches or the trusty hammer / punch method of turning the adjusters? My family wants to know why I'm beating on my new bike with a hammer!

Thanks!
 
Sometimes after you loosen the upper ring on your shock you can turn the spring by hand. It helps to have the bike on a stand or the suspension not compressed. You can also spray some WD-40 on the threads of the ring. Just keep your eye on the ring closest to the upper shock and see if it moves for you.
 
raisrx251;62212 said:
Sometimes after you loosen the upper ring on your shock you can turn the spring by hand. It helps to have the bike on a stand or the suspension not compressed. You can also spray some WD-40 on the threads of the ring. Just keep your eye on the ring closest to the upper shock and see if it moves for you.
Click to expand...

Yep :thumbsup: Use gloves and try and grab the ring on the spring to make it all turn at once. Make sure the shock threads are real clean and lubed.
 
The spanner tool doesn't fit my KTM if I put it in horizontal. If I put it in on a 45 degree angle, I can creap the ring nut around either way. Not sure what works on your 610? Before I learned that, I took a hammer and screwdriver to my sm610.
 
Using the rammer and punch is OK and sometimes the only way to get the lock ging loose. Be gentle and try to use your hands to turn the spring as others have sugested. When you retighten the lock ring just make it snug no need to beat it up it wont move on its own if it's snug.
 
I use a long large flat screw driver and rubber mallet. Loosen the lock ring by tapping it (the correct direction), then tap the load bearing ring around to position. No problems.
 
And you're best off attacking it from the right side (have to take the airbox off!) - much better access.....
 
Owen J;66191 said:
And you're best off attacking it from the right side (have to take the airbox off!) - much better access.....
Click to expand...



Really..?? I usually do it from the left side with the side "number plate" off. I HATE taking off the airbox ANYTIME, and lining it back up with the air boot.
 
LRPct;66220 said:
Really..?? I usually do it from the left side with the side "number plate" off. I HATE taking off the airbox ANYTIME, and lining it back up with the air boot.
Click to expand...

I agree taking the airbox on and off is a PITA but perhaps I should of pointed out I was referring to adjusting the preload using a c-spanner. You'd never get access with a c-spanner from the LHS.

Going slightly off-topic (only very slightly!) has anyone on here managed to achieve the ride height figure quoted in the manual? I took as much preload off the shock as I could and it was still nowhere near the figure in the manual (approx 89mm IIRC)
 
Owen J;68431 said:
I agree taking the airbox on and off is a PITA but perhaps I should of pointed out I was referring to adjusting the preload using a c-spanner. You'd never get access with a c-spanner from the LHS.

Going slightly off-topic (only very slightly!) has anyone on here managed to achieve the ride height figure quoted in the manual? I took as much preload off the shock as I could and it was still nowhere near the figure in the manual (approx 89mm IIRC)
Click to expand...

The stock springs are very heavy - new springs for you unless you are 220+ or carrying passengers or lots of baggage.

I carry lots of bagage, but mental baggage weighs nothing on a scale! :-)
 
Setting up the suspension is the best money I spent on mine.
If the rear is too stiff, the front most likely is too and if you are still fighting the stiffness, you don't know how good your bike is yet.
 
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