• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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Aftermarket Hydraulic Clutch

FirstEliminator

FirstEliminator

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hey guys,

I was looking around e-bay and found a universal hydraulic clutch set up that will mount on older bikes.
Here is the link:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLACK-HYDRA...Parts_Accessories&hash=item25794e8d7f&vxp=mtr

He says it works on bikes that start in any gear. I am not sure what that means. I know my 73 450wr will not kick with the clutch pulled in. But, I don't see why this couldn't be used to pull the lever on the engine.
It might work on the 87 430----which would be a nice upgrade.

This set-up is certainly cheap enough to try out. My problem is finding the time and energy to get things done.
 
I've fitted a Magura aftermarket hydraulic clutch to a 85 Husky CR 500, took a little bit of fiddling to get the adjustment correct but well worth it. Cable wasn't the heaviest I've had to pull but using the hydraulic made riding a lot less physical.
 
Works on the bike engines that have the main shaft mounted clutch commonly referred to as 'Start In Any Gear.


looks intreguing but my first observation is fits pit bike, not sure if thats an issue but 34inch cable length should be enough to reach most clutches from the bars.. $40 bucks its worth ago if your struggling with pulling that lever.:thumbsup:
 
I was reading a thread about a hydraulic clutch in the two stroke section lately. It appeared an addition of a master link from a chain was used to get more length. Plenty of pictures If I recall.

Unless the slave cylinder is in line with the clutch rod I wouldn't bother. I have not dis assembled any of the pre primary kick husky bikes however the ones I have taken apart a lot of the problem is that the shaft the cable attaches to with the half round to actuate the clutch rod wears into the magnesium case. It in some cases at least the ones I deal with it is possible to switch out the seal for a sealed bearing and even kind of glue the seal on top if desired. Bronze sleeving that bore and cutting out near the bearing as needed would be the proper fix in my opinion. A bushing was added near the bottom in the older single cam section and the current two strokes that shaft rides on bearings top and bottom. I think the motion pro terrminator cables are the best whether all of them are teminator I can't say.

As for going by what is on ebay that isn't a safe bet. Often folks make different listings for the same thing. I bought some rotors for the brakes of my ford pick up and after getting ford ones looked on ebay. At some arbitrary serial number they changed the stud diameter to hold on the wheel but none or virtually none of the ebay listings had mention of this and it would have been most likely I would have to drill out or shim my rims or return them.

Primary kick means the kickstarter turns the primary drive hence pulling in the clutch pretty much disengages the rear wheel. You could study the husky parts sheets and figure it out but the non primary kick stuff I have dealt with the kick starter turns a gear in the transmission. I fail to see how this would effect one of these devices the thread is about.

Fran
 
I was thinking it couldn't be used in AHRMA. One of my goals is to get a 77 360wr together to see how it will work in the NETRA enduro series. A hydraulic clutch would be a nice addition in the tight woods for a slow rider like myself.
 
Corect me if I'm wrong but are they not legal in AHRMA only in the pro classes? If You show up and have one they arn't going to not let you ride right? Anyway the one on e-bay above sure is a lot of bang for the buck.Thats about 1/5th the cost of a Magura. I just installed the Magura Jack set up on a Maico that has a very simaler set up to our Husqvarnas. The Jack system is designed for modern bikes that have a much shorter distance from the Cable end to the Clutch Arm on the Motor so it will have to be exstended. If You Google this you will get a number of ways this has been done. I machined a coller to do this and I rode the Bike yesterday for the first time. I will say that it worked very well and there is defently less clutch pull effort than my new Terry Cable that it replaced. The Clutch feel is the same as a new KTM.
 
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