• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Auto - Engine Frame Clearance ....

grouty

Auto Lover ...
Can someone measure the clearance between the top of the bottom frame tube and the underside of the left engine casing. I am making some new front mounting plates to put my 390 AMX into a 78 ML frame. The bulge on the lower left casing is very very close to the frame tube. Is 3-4mm ok ?
 
Can someone measure the clearance between the top of the bottom frame tube and the underside of the left engine casing. I am making some new front mounting plates to put my 390 AMX into a 78 ML frame. The bulge on the lower left casing is very very close to the frame tube. Is 3-4mm ok ?

Would measuring my 76 360 auto be any help?
 
Measured both the 420 and the 360, a 3mm allen key was a tight fit on both and I mean tight, I could not get anything else to measure the gap with so just worked my way down a set of allen keys!
 
More important than that gap is the carb to air box alignment.I would get that all in line and make the front mounts to suit.
 
Thanks Steve. I will try and escape later this evening and have a look.
Yes Auto, this is where I am at after lining the carb & air box. I looks pretty perfect to me, but I wanted to be sure as the gap between frame and motor seem so small. The rear engine mounting tab on the frame is a "short" one, so I was thinking there may be a miss-match here.
 
Just been down to check. I had to measure the clearance I had with a feeler gauge as it was so small. It was 0.4mm (or 15 thou !)
I packed it up to 3mm, and with a bit of adjustment, the airbox & carb line up fine.

Thanks Steve.

As soon as the holiday's are over, the hubs go off to Rod Spry for powder coating and lacing to a nos pair of Akront rims, and the fork tubes go to be re-chromed. Money - money - money !
 
The spokes on the original front wheel I had were so shot no amount of paint would fill the holes. The rim was rotten, dented and split. The back wheel I dug out was laced with a 78 rim possibly from a Honda (2.50-17). That and the spokes were mint and all un-screwed. But not what I wanted. The fork tubes are worth doing. If I could find the lead for my phone I would upload pics. But I fear it has met the same fate as the camera lead ...... a 4 year old .... :mad:
 
Grouty. You were right to start with. My 78 AMX has about 0.5mm clearance. I can just get a hacksaw blade in. Seems the go is to get the motor as low as possible when pivoting about the swing arm.
 
While you've got the motor split fit a drain screw to the crankcase, a flooded engine takes a lot of kicking, no chance of bump starting to clear the excess fuel out of the engine. Set fire to my bike trying to clear flooded engine, luckily I was wearing gloves so I was able to beat the flames out:eek:
 
I would just put shims under the engine until the carb meets the airbox and the exhaust can be mounted. That is how I developed the front plates to put the 82 250WR engine into one of my ML frames. I used a 1.5 " dia bronze rod that I will be using for valve guides and assorted repair bushings.
 
Unless I take the exhaust off the other 390WR I don't have a pattern to line up. I figure that the air box / carb is not movable (ish). The exhaust can be made to fit if required.
With the 3mm spacer under the engine it seems fine. Just waiting for some 1050 plate to turn up to make the front brackets. Damn holiday's get in the way of stuff !!
 
Back
Top