• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Auto Gearbox Mainshaft Removal

stormer254

stormer254

Husqvarna
AA Class
I Think a spring is broken on 2nd, 3rd or 4th as my 420, 82 model changes into top early and won't change back till you stop! Very hard work on steep hills, loads of legging! I am disassembling to have a look, and have got first clutch of the engine mainshaft with no problems. Then I have removed locating screw and raised gear lever, it only wants to lift about 15mm, and tried to remove the gearbox mainshaft and clutches but they will not come out! They move a bit but no matter where I position the gear lever I can not remove them! Any ideas as to what I am doing wrong? The engine has straight cut gear primary transmission.
 
It has been quite a while since I was in one. I never raised the lever that selects drive or neutral. Usually the piece with the four engaging pieces and the gear that the lever move fall off the end of the shaft. At any rate I usually have some parts to put back on the end of that assembly once I get it out. I don't recall ever having any problems pulling it out. The 420, 430, and 500 auto all have the straight cut primary gears and the ball bearings. It appears from the manuals the 360 and 390 have the slightly helical cut teeth and needle and thrust bearings. If you take off the plate that has the chain drive sprocket sticking through it the freewheel shaft comes out and you can peek in through there. It might just be the shaft doesn't want to pull through the bearing or the bearing is pulling out of the pocket instead of the way mine came apart. Last sentence being a guess.

Fran
 
Thanks Fran, got it out in the end, dismantled the assembly, but no springs were broken, a bit of wear in the bushes though, so I swapped it for the one from my parts engine which though it is an earlier 390 engine with helical primary gears the clutches and gear mechanisms seem to be identical. Also took out the other shaft with the free-wheels on and they all seem to be okay. Tried the bike out this afternoon and she works the same as before, the bike just changes gears too early and will not rev out in each gear, I am going to have a play with the carburation, even though she has standard jetting at the moment, lean her out and see if I can get her to rev out. :confused:
 
There are or were different springs of different spring constants to tune those. I have a little pamphlet which I couldn't just now find in the reference section some sort of racing handbook supplement that states the springs, the weight of the bob weights and the sprocket for the chain all have an effect of how it shifts. It is just a few sentences. I understand it is possible to set it up in such a way to get it to shift too hard and go over backwards.

Those bushings you said were worn were they Teflon or something like that? I seem to remember taking something apart in there and thinking it had Teflon bushings.

Fran
 
There are 2 brass bushings with a teflon bush in the middle of each sleeve, The manual says drive out with a drift and replace using a press. Sounds, oh so easy, not!

If you do find that pamphlet I would be really interested to read it
 
Finally sorted out this annoying problem of changing gear to early, I have been swapping bits about trying to find a reason, yesterday I swapped the silencer/spark arrestor for a straight silencer, today I went to an enduro practise, the bike is transformed, pulling up steep hills like it was flat and even if balked (short for cockup on my part) pulling away from stopped. I guess the original silencer/spark arrestor must have been causing too much back pressure and stopped the engine from revving out.
 
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