• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

bing float level

crankpin

Husqvarna
B Class
I've done this a million times, but this carb has given me some grief :banghead:

First, the float pin had seized and was a bugger to remove, next the plunger on top of the float valve was seized. luckily I had a spare.

The main jet was blocked solid (a 195) and I could only find a 200, so that went in.

This is where I may need your collective knowledge, the manuals I have for this model are more than a little vague when it comes to float level height, so I set it as per most carbs with this type of float valve, level floats as they rest on the float valve without depressing the plunger (2nd image). Is this correct? :excuseme:

Next, reassemble the carb with new o rings, and test it off the bike, ensuring a good dribble of fuel left the carb when the tickler was depressed. I then installed the throttle valve and fitted the carb to the bike, and re-test, perfect, you might have noticed that I swapped the carb flange bolt for a socket head.

All that's left now is a proper running test and plug chops ( I hope)

Oh, while I'm typing, is there a paint which is fuel resistant?

I normally use PJ1 fast black with good results, but this time, the paint goes soft on top of the engine where the carb drips after using the float plunger.
 

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