• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Blown 310r. What's the next step?

R

Renzlik

Husqvarna
C Class
Bike seized while climbing a gradual hill while riding for a couple of hours. Tried e button...nothing. So tried kicking it...motor seized. Looked down and my boot and right side of motor covered in oil. Loose bolt on oil line caused the leak. How screwed am I? Will this possibly be something that can be fixed/replaced? new engine? or am I looking for a new bike?
 
Very sorry to hear about this ...I wonder, how often does this happen? I seem to recall this happening to someone else on this forum. I check the oil line bolts fairly frequently and they seem very snug.
 
If this bike is fairly new, I'd be talking with the dealer about this! Obviously this line bolt should have been torqued to spec. Appears it was not.
If you have had the bike awhile and this may not be an option, unfortunately you will not know how severe the damage until it's all torn apart and inspected. Since it seized, most likely the cylinder needs to be re-plated and the piston replaced. The cam journals in the head may also have suffered. The big end rod bearing bad means a new crank assembly. Won't know until it's all torn down and measured. I hope the damage is minimal for you.
 
Call ZipTy racing. TBH, it doesn't sound good if the engine is locked. Maybe you can have ZipTy make some lemonade out of it yet? Sorry for your misfortune.
 
Nobody here knows what is bad inside that engine till it is torn apart. Even then, its a judgement call as to how much is spent. And yes, it gonna cost plenty. Maybe too much. But it has to be verified. Some of us ride 2t bikes to avoid this type recovery.

You can either start working on your bike and open it and many here will help you figure out a way to a fix or just reach for your wallet, open it, and turn your head to the side. That's the easy way.

Good luck ...
 
I ran mine with no oil after cracking the side case. piston seized. Cylinder was usable. I needed a crank. piston and main bearings.
 
From what I've read on-line, that cylinder re-sleeving \ replating (or whatever exactly the work is) is easy enough if and when needed...

Renzlik, the question for you (and the rest of us from time to time) is do you want professional or non-professional help? I'm on this web site for non-professional help. The nonPros here see this type of work as easy and have lived it for yrs and can fix all parts on a bike .. I can get professional help for my Huskys here just out the door. I just gotta ask the right questions before the work is started. But I'm coming here first ...

Myself, I could hang with the list from JD... Toss in head work (which you should not have by the odds), and the 4st owning \ maintaining price just when close to the buy-another-bike range.
 
Somebody is parting out a complete 2013 TE 310R (low hrs.) on Ebay right now including engine parts. Might be something for you to look at after a quick disassembly...
 
JPinNC said:
Very sorry to hear about this ...I wonder, how often does this happen? I seem to recall this happening to someone else on this forum. I check the oil line bolts fairly frequently and they seem very snug.
Click to expand...


That was me.

Happened on my 2010 with 28 miles on it.

Lost rear brake, looked down at boot covered in oil and shut it off and pushed it out of the woods.

No damage to motor.

I twist the hoses counter clockwise when tightening to keep them from loosening the banjo bolts.
 
From road racing side of issues I don't understand why nobody safety wires every oil related conduit when we run such small sumps. I'd even expect the bikes to come drilled for wire and every damn aftermarket fastener be pre-drilled for wire. Every airplane, every racer for 50 years+ does this. Drilling is a PIA on many parts but easier when being manufactured and with a jig to do.
 
Thanks for the advise/condolences. I am going to start disassembly later this week. I am waiting on a new case splitter and a couple of other tools from my father-in-law. I am sure I will have more questions once I start. Thanks in advance.
 
Somebody is parting out a complete 2013 TE 310R (low hrs.) on Ebay right now including engine parts. Might be something for you to look at after a quick disassembly...
Click to expand...
Got a link? I'm looking for KYB forks
 
I am very sorry to hear of your misfortune. This is one of the reasons I have been scared of four strokes and being old school ride a two stroke. In 1993 and only because i was a kid I had the misfortune of seizing my 93 husky we 250 wide open in top gear on tar! That was on a Sunday. By Thursday I had a brand new cylinder and piston and rings I believe for like $700.00 I put the bike together in my living room Friday night while drinking beer and was riding Saturday...lesson learned lean jetting cold temp FMF pipe and extended wfo not good. Good luck with your machine and please save yourself a headache make sure you have a reputable dealer work on it.
 
Just Google "Ebay 2013 Husqvarna te310 parts". There's a guy there selling parts named d2dz. His store is called Washington Pit Posse. i believe he's the guy selling all the bike's parts.
 
Man that sucks... Just make sure you are super detailed oriented in your inspection of everything, the last thing you want is to do an engine rebuild and have something blow again because you missed something. If you like the bike, this could be the time to bite the bullet and send it to zipty and get it bulletproofed at the same time. And to be frank, if you don't already have the tools to properly check and rebuild the engine, that way would probably be cheaper too.
 
Follow up:

I finally got around to tearing down this bike.
I did not remove the engine from the frame, hoping that it would be something with the top end. I removed the head cover, cam mount and cams. Right away I noticed scarring marks on the intake cam seat, mount, and shaft of the cam. I did not notice any wear anywhere else in this area. Curiously after I removed the cams, which felt somewhat stuck down, I tried to roll over the previously seized engine. This freed it up! I continued to remove the cylinder head and inspected the valves which revealed no wear or damage. The piston and cylinder have no scarring marks of anykind. I drained what there was of remaining oil (not much) and inspected the magnetic drain plug and stainless steel oil filter. I noticed a little steel and a little more aluminum "shavings". This leads me to believe that everything leads back to the steel cam sitting in an aluminum seat getting too hot from no oil. I believe this caused the motor to seize.
My first question is: do you think I am right on my assumption? Does this mean that I that I do not need to take apart the bottom end to check for any damage?
My second question is: can the cylinder head be repaired in the damaged area? Or does this mean I need a new cylinder head?
If a new head and cam is the answer, my next question is: Is there something special that needs to be done to replace/install the valves? (Seating?) If something special is needed, who would you suggest sending it to?
I am not overly experienced in motorcycle mechanics and do not want to "bite off more than I can chew." Thank you already for the information
 
If you are going to send your head or engine to anyone, send to zip-ty racing. They are THE authority relating to these engines. Besides doing development work for the factory and racing them, they also run a fleet of them in their tour business.
http://www.ziptyracing.com/
 
Sounds to me like you starved your engine from oil. Pretty sure you will need a new head since there are no replaceable bearings for the camshafts. The manufacture's recommended oil is too heavy for this engine and is why I recommend 0W40 with a SS filter. I am very curious to see the condition of your rod bearing since the head receives most of the oil flow. You are welcome to give us a call.

http://www.ziptyracing.com/contact/
 
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