• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Cagiva (husky) 250 Wmx Rebuild

mattmcphail

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hey guys.
I found this bike on craigslist for $125. I figured it would be a good bike for a first attempt at a rebuild and good chance at a learning experience to help with my very weak mechanical skills.

I'm DEFINITELY going to need to rely on you guys for some help.

After a lot of research the I found out that the bike is an 89 Cagiva 250WMX. I know I'm a year out of the "vintage" cagetory hear, but I really wanted to put this in the restoration section. Engine parts are going to be tough to find but I talked to Hall's and they along with other dealers still ahve most parts I'll need.

Upon first inpection the bike looks rough, but most everything is moving freely and most all parts are there. The only missing parts are the carb and the piston. It had previously been taken out when the motor froze. The forks aren't correct as it originally had USD forks. I plan to leave the conventional forks just to miinimize the build cost.

This is what it looked like when I picked it up.
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So far I've stripped the bike down and the only thing that seems to need obvious replacement are the rear break pump / cylinder and the front brake lever and resevoir. They appear to both be rusted out and shot.

I stripped the frame with and aircraft stripper 2 times, and then wire brushed it with the drill.
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After 2 coats of primer
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This was about 4 coats of Duplicolor "Deep Blue" with the hvlp gun. It was the closest that the auto parts store had to the original blue. It's a little too metalic but it looks pretty good.
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I got to a sticking point today. I was going to take apart the fork legs today just to see how they go together and then to paint the lower legs and triple clamps. I drained the oil and then went to take the allen bolts out of the bottom of the legs (looked this procedure up online). The allens aren't turning and are beginning to strip so I stopped. What should I do? I didn't have any luck grabbing them with vice grips.
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The other issue / question: Remember, the key is to keep this build as CHEAP as possible. The wheels need attention. I want to paint the hubs and clean up the rims. Should I just dismantle them and try to teach myself to lace a wheel? That's a pretty intimidating task. If yes, should I take them apart or cut the spokes out and just bike the bullet on new spokes? If no, What do you suggest for making the wheels look better?
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To do the wheel nice, you really need to relace the wheel to do a clean job. I have several projects that when they get finished I will do the same because to put the time and effort into a project is a shame to have something like that staring you in the face. This guy is one of the masters of do it yourselfers and shares his projects online. Section on lacing wheels: http://gelanz.com/lace/lace.html
 
I'm a relative noob to wheel lacing, but I have done it successfully. It will take FOREVER your first time, but once you get the hang of the truing process, it will go quicker.

I was in the same situation as you. I had a '94 KDX 200 with a pretty worn out rear wheel. I wasn't going for esthetics, I just wanted to get the spokes tight (many were loose/stretched) and the wheel trued. Unfortunately, 90% of the spoke nipples were seized to the spokes. I dismounted the tire and put some PB Blaster in each of the nipples every day for three days. I was eventually able to unscrew and clean up 90% of the nipples and spokes, but I had to replace a few that just wouldn't come apart. I did one spoke at a time, removing, cleaning up the threads with a tap, then greasing the nipple and spoke before reinstalling and moving on to the next spoke. A little piece of tape on each completed spoke reminded me which ones were done. When all the spokes were installed and the greased nipples turning freely, I was finally able to tighten and true the wheel. Overall, not counting the days of PB Blaster soaking, I probably spent eight hours undoing, cleaning, greasing and truing. A $100 spoke and nipple set from Moose Racing would have cut the project time down to about two hours. Just cut all the old spokes and install the new. Polish and/or paint your rim and hub before installing.

I guess what I'm trying to say is, how much is your time worth? Salvaging 32 rusty nipples and spokes takes quite a bit of time.
 
cool project. Love to see old bikes getting back to life :)

Not many of those bikes around, have a 125 wmx basket case bike myself :D
 
As you can see, this is my first post on Husky Cafe, however I'm not a NOOB to the Cagiva line. I have 6 of there wonderful bikes ranging from an 85 125 WMX to an 89 250WMX.
The Carborator you are looking for is a Dellorto VHSB 37 AS.
As I was looking through your pictures of you restoration, I noticed that your front forks are not stock, the 89 Cagiva 250WMX came with White Power 4054 upsidedown forks with external compression adjusters on top (red knobs).
I'm including a pic of my 89 for reference. I have both the Service Manual & Parts manual for this model.
Please let me know if I can be of any help to you.
My email address is captain@dc.rr.com
Best Regards,
Kirk Hester
 

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After studying the pictures of your forks, they look very similiar to the forks on a WRK125 Husky that I saw here on this website. This would also explain the spedometer drive that you have on the front axle of yours
 
I started restoring an '88 WMX 250 last week. I used paint remover and a wire brush to strip the old black paint from the radiators, hubs and brake backing plate. I think it turned out really nice and trick looking. I was able to do this without unlacing the wheels. At some point I will go through all the spokes and nipples...but I've got enough other stuff to work on now.
 

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I went to a vmx meeting last weekend i got home pulled my 88 wmx 250 out of the shed the resto is all systems go i hope to race it next year in the pre90 class i put sum fuel in it pulled on the choke kicked a coupla times did not start layed it on the left side fuel ran out the over flo kic kic ding ding ding the sweet noise and smell its been allmost 3 yrs frame is of to the powder coaters alloy part of to get soda blasted the only new parts ive found so far is chain slide and rollers on ebay under husqvarna 250 90 91 ill be posting pic of the resto as i go
 
I started restoring an '88 WMX 250 last week. I used paint remover and a wire brush to strip the old black paint from the radiators, hubs and brake backing plate. I think it turned out really nice and trick looking. I was able to do this without unlacing the wheels. At some point I will go through all the spokes and nipples...but I've got enough other stuff to work on now.
hay ther wmx im on to some NOS plastics ive orded rear gard L/H and r/h side covers front race plate when i get them il post some pics if you need some il give you my contact my bike is stripped down at the moment im trying geting wheels relaced
and alloy parts soder blasted cheers cheko
 
Hey guys, I am new here. I need help with my 88 wmx 250. i need a new/used engine or a place that can rebuild mine!
Any advise is very appreciated, i have been on the hunt to find a place but no luck. I live in north central fl. I don't care if i have to sent the engine to cali if i have too! i love this bike!!!
 
Hey guys, I am new here. I need help with my 88 wmx 250. i need a new/used engine or a place that can rebuild mine!
Any advise is very appreciated, i have been on the hunt to find a place but no luck. I live in north central fl. I don't care if i have to sent the engine to cali if i have too! i love this bike!!!
hay val what do you need top bottom or both
 
has your bike sezed or has it lost compretion the parts ive got is the piston,ring ,cylinder, base gasket . wots your zip code ill find out 4 u on the post
 
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