chain for 88 430 WR...

[everfree]

I recently picked up a good condition 88 430 WR. It still has many of the original parts (tires, cables, decals, etc. ). I've ridden it a few times and having a blast.

I found the original chain pad broke off along with a broken tooth on front sprocket. Rear sprocket is worn too.

Looking for guidance on the chain. Manual recommends replacing all at sprockets and chain at the same time. OK with me. Sprockets are ordered. Reuse chain or get a new one?

Any recommendations on what chain to use? what brand and where to buy?
Thanks.
Dave

 

[justintendo]

i have always bought tsubaki chains for my street and dirtbikes...not the cheapest but a 430 will be stretching cheap chains....i also stay away from aluminum sprockets, they wear too fast and wear the chain quicker imho

 

[2premo]

I agree on getting a good chain
had 3 of these a 500 and 250, all have aluminum rear sprocket with o-ring chains, always lube before riding and 5 years of moderate use on the one 430 the chain and sprockets are in good shape
running a 52 on the back and cant remember the front, whatever stock is
pulls like a tractor

 

[everfree]

Thanks guys. Good advice.

I've ordered a new D.I.D. Gold O-ring chain. The Tsubaki chains look good too, hadn't heard of that brand.
I noticed the current chain doesn't have a master link with a C-clip, so I'll have to grind it off.
The rear sprocket is a 52t and the front is a 13t. Don't know if that was stock. Seems to work good for the tight single track I ride.

Yeah, the 430 pulls like a tractor whenever you need it. It sure is fun to ride.
Dave

 

[suprize]

ordering as a set is critical as any wear in the chain causes the links to "stretch" and this is what "rounds " the sprocket teeth over.

O rings keep the "poo" out of the pins and prevent wear and "stretch" and keep sprockets in reasonable shape for much longer than a non o ring chain which quickly round the sprockets off.

the chain you have purchased will be fine

 

[fran...k.]

For a normal kind of use off road husky I have been using a rivet on master link. It goes through the wheel thing in front of the rear sprocket better. They need to be ordered seperately for the did vm xring I have used for the last few times I got a chain.

I only once got a steel rear sprocket and of course I only once have hit an obsticle on the trail and bent a sprocket. It was very hard to get the sprocket straight enough to continue and I had more tools than usual.

There is a school of thought that avoiding combinations like 13/52 because 13 times four equals 52 and the same roller hits the same spot or something along those lines. 13/53 might be a more common origional configuration but I did find some of the bikes came with this supposedly avoid formula.

I made a chain buffer pad for the swingarm from one for a 99te410 which I think is the same as my 1998wr125. I posted a thread about it here. One bike I use a 12 tooth front sprocket, it wears faster and is harder on the swingarm protector but with the primary gearing of something like a 1988 wr430 it gets a lot of use off the problematic third gear. Quite a wide transmission here overall probably is still comparable to most modern huskies for high ratio.

 

[everfree]

For a normal kind of use off road husky I have been using a rivet on master link. It goes through the wheel thing in front of the rear sprocket better. They need to be ordered seperately for the did vm xring I have used for the last few times I got a chain.

Thanks, fran...k. I'll see what the DID comes with. The chain arrives Friday.

I only once got a steel rear sprocket and of course I only once have hit an obsticle on the trail and bent a sprocket. It was very hard to get the sprocket straight enough to continue and I had more tools than usual.

There is a school of thought that avoiding combinations like 13/52 because 13 times four equals 52 and the same roller hits the same spot or something along those lines. 13/53 might be a more common origional configuration but I did find some of the bikes came with this supposedly avoid formula.

I can see the rationale for the sprocket ratio not to be a even number. I didn't think of that. Thanks.

I made a chain buffer pad for the swingarm from one for a 99te410 which I think is the same as my 1998wr125. I posted a thread about it here. One bike I use a 12 tooth front sprocket, it wears faster and is harder on the swingarm protector but with the primary gearing of something like a 1988 wr430 it gets a lot of use off the problematic third gear. Quite a wide transmission here overall probably is still comparable to most modern huskies for high ratio.

Trying to keep the front sprocket with as many teeth as possible it probably a good idea. I don't like the idea of going below 14t, would rather adjust the rear tooth count. If I had to do again, I would have tried a 14/XX combo instead. I'll see how it wears.

Thanks everyone.
Dave