Chain Stretch

[suprize]

Hi All

Notice that with the shox off and lifting the swing arm through its arc, there is a major tightening of the chain about mid travel. Cant remember if this ok or my chain is cactus (its o ring and in good visual shape, sprockets good etc) assuming this is ok and the reason for the high powered tensioner.

the swing arm and sprocket have some distance between them so expecting there to be some change in chain distance

have set the chain slack at this point. just getting the new tensioner roller turned up from some graphite impregnated nylon tube before i can get a ride on it. (got to start it yet)

cheers

 

[ruwfo]

Yeap your chain sounds, like it stretch,& got a high spot (tight spot). Til you replace it, adjust it by
getting the tight spot in the center of the top (flat) section of the swingarm, then adjust it, about 2-3
fingers tall. Recheck it , as mine usually goes tighter as soon as i tight the axle nuts.

Husky John

 

[Ron]

Your chain will be tightest when you have a straight line between the center of your countershaft sprocket, the center of the swingarm pivot and the center of the rear axle. I just pull my shocks off and block the back wheel up in this position, to adjust the chain. I set mine at 3/4" of slack.
Ron

 

[dumbdotdog]

One of the dirt bike mags. back in the day, said to pull the chain backwards at the rear of the sprocket, if you expose half of the sprocket tooth or more, your chain has stretched beyond the service limit.

 

[mike328]

Yeap your chain sounds, like it stretch,& got a high spot (tight spot). Til you replace it, adjust it by
getting the tight spot in the center of the top (flat) section of the swingarm, then adjust it, about 2-3
fingers tall. Recheck it , as mine usually goes tighter as soon as i tight the axle nuts.

Husky John

John, I spent about 3 hours going thru the exact same issue of my chain tightening everytime I tightened the axle nuts...frustrating!..
I finally used tie downs and looped them thru the wheel & onto the footpegs to hold it in place once I found the chain slack 'sweet spot'..
then I tightened the axle nuts.... I even called around asking if there was a 'trick.. basically I was told the trick is just knowing when to tighten the nuts....etc

 

[fran...k.]

The spacing of the swingarm pivot and countershaft on bikes like in the avatar of post one here is so great I seem to remember seeing a 17 tooth sprocket in the parts sheet, maybe even more is possible with a welder and a notch in the swingarm protector like a lot of new bikes need to just run a 15. Not husky specific the following, you do adjust the chain with three points mentioned above in a straight line. It is also advisable to turn the wheel in case things change as different parts of the sprocket engage. A firm up or down force to the chain will place the pins in positions similar to what you will find after using the motor, pushing the bike may make things shorten up. Having the axle nut slightly snug and a firm force to the chain and a kick to the rear of the tire works for me to make the axle stuff snug against the adjuster stuff. The norton handbook has you take the chain off, lay it out flat, push it together as much as possible, make a mark then stretch it out as much as possible and note the difference to get to a service limit. Without looking I think it is about one pin to pin length. These modern x ring chains go a long time before needing adjustment, often after adjusting I end up backing off to just one sixth of a turn or somthing pretty insignificant at the beginning. When I see the rollers vibrating chances are it is needing rather regular adjustments.

fran