• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

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    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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Changing Oil with Zip-Ty Recirculation System

coleman1495

Husqvarna
A Class
I now have a full oil recirculation system on my TE449. Its great running the full amount of oil without having hot oil blow out the airbox. Very reassuring when I am riding in tight areas.

Anyways I went to do my first oil change since installing the recirc system. I simply removed the first prescreen filter and let the oil drain there. Unfortunately the oil does not drain very well from that point. In fact barely any oil comes out there. Is this normal?

I cannot remove the second prescreen filter since the drain back line is in the way. I ended up removing the hose off the drain back fitting. I obviously want to avoid removing the drain hose from the fitting since its hard on the hose.

How are you guys changing your oil with the recirc system?
 
After letting the bike idle for a couple of minutes, until the side case feels hot. 1. I Remove the plastic crash guard. 2. I crack open the oil fill (don't know if it is needed, but I do it). 3. With drip pan in place, remove the AN fitting from the drainback plug (where the oil drain plug used to be prior to the ZIPTY system). 4. Remove, inspect, blow down clean, and replace the two prefilter screens, and the stainless oil filter. (drip pan still in place) 5. Replace the drainback hose (AN fitting). 6. Put in a quart (946ml) of Mobile 1 0W40. 1 7. Start and idle the engine for 20-30 seconds, and stop engine. (with the oil fill plug installed...otherwise a mess) 8. Lean against the bike (avoid the hot exaust pipe) and quickly pour in a premeasured 350ml more. 9. Quickly reinstall the oil fill plug. 8. Reinstall plastic engine crash guard.

Thats how I do it. Hopefully I didn't forget any steps. Hope it helps.
 
Yeah I was kind of hoping to avoid removing the AN fitting. I found that installing the Zip-Ty fitting ( the shiny/stainless one with threads on both ends) into the drain plug was a total PITA. I could not get any of my 17mm sockets to fit due to clearance issues with the frame. I ended up slowly and painfully tightening it with a wrench. It was hard to torque the fitting in place and I half stripped it trying.So removing the drain back fitting is not an option. Doing so causes the Zip-Ty fitting to come loose.
 
Yeah I was kind of hoping to avoid removing the AN fitting. I found that installing the Zip-Ty fitting ( the shiny/stainless one with threads on both ends) into the drain plug was a total PITA. I could not get any of my 17mm sockets to fit due to clearance issues with the frame. I ended up slowly and painfully tightening it with a wrench. It was hard to torque the fitting in place and I half stripped it trying.So removing the drain back fitting is not an option. Doing so causes the Zip-Ty fitting to come loose.
The adapter fitting is supposed to be blue loctited in. You only need to remove the center bolt to drain the oil, although loosening the 90° AN fitting may be required to do so.
 
I pull the an fitting. It's a pain to get it to thread back on, but I've already pulled my Hyde plate and filler plug and prescreens, what's another one at that point? I've also found that leaning the bike way to the right then back to the left several times will get a lot more oil out.
 
The adapter fitting is supposed to be blue loctited in. You only need to remove the center bolt to drain the oil, although loosening the 90° AN fitting may be required to do so.

I must be doing something wrong. I have read this several times and tried it several times. But of the 3 plugs at the drain location (2 prefilter screens and one drain bolt (now ZIPTY drain back hose)), it seems that I have to remove them all.

If I remove the aft prefilter screen bolt (the center one of the three bolts), pull the screen and let it drain until it stops. Then pull the front one, I still get a deluge of oil and after I have drained all three lower ones, I open the magnetic (ZIPTY) oil filter cover, and get another deluge of oil down the side of the engine. (it alway worrys me running down that wire bundle)

I have not tried rocking my bike back and forth yet, maybe that is the secret.
 
The front prefilter is for the crankshaft area and it is almost always clean, but I would check it now and again. The center bolt or second prefilter is for the main crankcase and this is where the metal will be. It will drain the entire crankcase, but you may have to tilt back and forth. Yes, of course the main filter should be cleaned every time. If for some reason you do wear out the angle connector, we have them in stock and sell them at our cost back to you. If you would like a different one, it is a common 90° -6 AN fitting available world wide.
 
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